recessed scissor lift

[Lewis Ledyard]

Can a shallow pit/recessed area be made into an existing concrete floor in order to flush mount a scissors lift? My floor is about 12-18" of concrete poured into the foundation of an old barn, so there is plent of depth.

Thanks,

Lew

[Johnb911]

I've seen pictures on here done just like that .

[JJ 911SC]

Do a search on "scissor lift" and you'll get a few threads that will show both options; ramp or recess. With recess you loose some lifting room (head room).

I'm guessing that you already got a scissor lift?

[M5guy]

I've considered building two 8" high semi-permanent ramps out of 2x12's bolted to the floor as an alternative to digging a pit in the floor. The scissors would sit between the ramps, on which the car would be parked. Also makes it easy to do some quick work under the car without jacking the car up. If one were to ever move from ones home, there would not be a big weird pit in the floor.

Ub
84 911/Andial 3.4
00 M5

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by M5guy

I've considered building two 8" high semi-permanent ramps out of 2x12's bolted to the floor...

Ub
84 911/Andial 3.4
00 M5

Ub

They don't need to be bolted to the floor. They just need to be tied together front and back, as the front suspension will spread them when you lower it back down.

I made my back brace removable so when I dropped the engine it would not be a barrier.

[RoninLB]

the ledge is for 3/4 plywood being supported under by the lift itself so it becomes a flat floor when needed

the rectangle hole upper left is for the drop down handle of some diamond plate

[faverymi]

On an existing foundation you still need to cut the old concrete full depth to remove it and pour new mix to the new height to recess the lift. Or you could crack the existing one. So is a little more involved. Wet saw, jack hammer, new concrete, new lift.

The ramps on each side is much easier, and cheap. So unless you can't leave without the recessed lift I would go with the ramps, much simpler.

[M5guy]

BTW, may I ask what brand of scissor jack you guys are using? I'm considering a Rotary as I already have a Rotary four post, but am open to anything.

Ub

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Lewis Ledyard

Can a shallow pit/recessed area be made into an existing concrete floor in order to flush mount a scissors lift? My floor is about 12-18" of concrete poured into the foundation of an old barn, so there is plent of depth.

Thanks,

Lew

It can be done but it's a lot of work, much simpler to build up a platform, the carpet is left loose so that it can be rolled up for messy projects

[rfuerst911sc]

I just completed this very thing. I rented a wetsaw from Home Depot and made the cuts. Then rented an electric jackhammer and busted it up. Dug the floor down and drilled holes in the existing slab for rebar for the new pour. Poured the new concrete and I'm waiting for it to cure before I paint it. I did it all myself other then the pour that I hired out. Not too bad of a job.

[faverymi]

rfuest911sc: you are the man.

That is exactly what needs to be done. Is about your level of comfort if you want to go this way or not.

I have a 600 bucks scissor lift from harbor freight. Can't complain, does the job.

[rfuerst911sc]

Including renting the wet saw and jackhammer the total cost of recessing the lift cost about $750.00. I recently purchased this house with a detached 3 car garage. This is the house I'm going to retire in so for me the only way to go was to recess the lift. I just don't like the look of ramps. If you noticed in the pics I poured a " ledge " on the two long sides. This ledge is aprox. 5/8 of an inch below the existing floor surface. I did that to support a 1/2 inch plywood cover when the lift is not in use. I have the cover cut to size and have reinforced the edges by gluing aluminum C channel around the perimeter. I will add some type of blocks on the ends and the lift blocks will support the center. So there should be no problem walking on the cover. And overall I only lose about 6 inches of lift height. Next weekend I will paint the recess with epoxy floor paint and a week later will muscle the lift into place. I have 3/16 thick aluminum plates that will go under the " wheels " and front bar of the lift, these protect the concrete and help distribute the weight. The lift I have is a Ammco scissor that lifts about 50 inches tall. Very stout built in the USA that I bought used off Craigslist over a year ago. My ultimate man cave is coming along nicely.

[nineball]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

Ub

They don't need to be bolted to the floor. They just need to be tied together front and back, as the front suspension will spread them when you lower it back down.

I made my back brace removable so when I dropped the engine it would not be a barrier.

they don't even need to be tied together. my two 12" wide 12' long double stacked & screwed "ramps" never move.

this is an old shot when i mistakenly bought 8' pieces but the principle is the same.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by nineball

they don't even need to be tied together. my two 12" wide 12' long double stacked & screwed "ramps" never move...

I get the same set up, 2 2X12 screw to each other. While the back could do without the brace, my front could not. Maybe its the camber but the side movement at the front while lowering back is at least 6".

Do you have anything gripping under the board?

[nineball]

nope.

[El_Mecanico]

Can you remove engines and trannys using these jacks?

[Todd Simpson]

Can you remove engines and trannys using these jacks?

Yes indeed!

[scxtasy]

Nice setup rfuerst911sc. How deep is the slab you poured for the lift to sit on? Also, how did you tie teh rebar into teh exisitng slab? Did you jsut srill holes and insert it? Sorry for the Lame questions.

Andrew

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by scxtasy

Nice setup rfuerst911sc. How deep is the slab you poured for the lift to sit on? Also, how did you tie teh rebar into teh exisitng slab? Did you jsut srill holes and insert it? Sorry for the Lame questions.

Andrew

The new floor I poured is 7 to 7 1/2 inches thick. That matches the thickness of the existing slab. The rebar I went with 3/8 because it is easier to bend. If you noticed I bent it at two right angles one coming out of the existing slab the other the bend to make the floor. I drilled holes in the existing slab about 4 inches deep. Once I had all the rebar bent I put construction adhesive in the holes and inserted the rebar. I did this only to hold the rebar in place while the concrete was being poured. So the floor and the two long side ledges were all poured together so it is very strong. After I knocked the forms out of the way I did have to fill in a small gap in the ends with hydraulic cement but that was easy and it all looks good. Plus this is all over tamped Georgia clay so it will last a long time.

[Quicksilver]

The word that keeps floating in my head is: Drainage