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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lakewood Colorado
Posts: 1,346
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Painting undercoating question
Hi guys!
Just have a quick question about rubberized undercoating. I have most of the front end of the car in epoxy primer (PPG DP 40) and was wondering if is is okay to spray the rubberized undercoating directly onto the epoxy primer in the wheel wells and battery box area. What rubberized undercoating should I use? I have seen people talk about the Wurth and 3M products on the forum and was planning on going with 3M. Thanks
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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i just stripped my wells last week...
i sprayed two coats of self etch primer, let dry then i sprayed two coats of epoxy primer, let dry the used 3m rubberized undercoating in rattle can, worked great, came out perfect, used light coats, about 1.25 cans per well ![]() what you see in the middle is seam sealer over the welded area for shock tower braces |
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Location: Lakewood Colorado
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Thanks! That looks great!
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Porsches I have painted have had the paint stripped to bare metal and then the pebble guard stuff applied but it was not factory. I am saying they were like this when I stripped them.
I have applied Wurth and Gravitex over 2 part primer and it has done just fine. |
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Location: Lakewood Colorado
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Thanks Bob. I will hopefully get most of the front end done this weekend. Then for the daunting task of attacking the floor pan!
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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Jimtweet, do you mind sharing what brands, rattle can etc you used for self etch and epoxy?
Thanks
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Jesper Carrera 3.0 1975 930 1978 OEM Matte Schwartz, ANDIAL IC, BL WUR, SC cams. LMA-3 w. XD-16 and CP transducer www.stauningwhisky.dk |
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Ubi bene ibi patria
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Sub'd.
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“Two possibilities exist: either we are alone in the Universe or we are not - both are equally terrifying” ― Arthur C. Clarke "As soon as laws are necessary for men, they are no longer fit for freedom." - Pythagoras |
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Registered speed offender
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Wurth is the best and also what the factory used. The correct stuff comes in a plastic bottle and is sprayed using an undercoat gun. Wurth has a "special" gun but not necessary. I got a kit from Eastwood that came with some different wands etc. Personally, I would only use the spray can stuff for touch-up. I used 4 bottles on my car (fender wells only) but I would recommend getting 5 or 6 if you plan to do more than just the fender wells. I think the factory over did the undercoating a bit but more than enough can't hurt but too little is going to be a problem.
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If you keep looking back, you'll never move forward. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/506621-project-911r-something.html |
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Midwest R Gruppe
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jimtweet, nice job! Curious on how you accomplished this. Is the car in full resto mode or did you do this with the exterior paint in tact? The rear fender well is so "funky" with tight areas and curves, I would suspect that it would be extremely difficult to get in all those tight spots. How did you do that? The reason I ask is that I am contemplating that project myself and would only be doing spot clean up of the rear wheel wells, not a full resto. It looks near impossible to get in all those tight areas without a media blaster.
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Quote:
used : Eastwood Self Etch Primer Gray & Black Dupli-Color :: Primer Sealer http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=asc_df_B002H9CMCQ1899064?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B002H9CMCQ before: ![]() during: ![]() after: ![]() |
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