H4 Install...is it REALLY that easy???

[Uber-fanatic]

I am looking for reassurance as I installed my new H4's last night and it all seemed a little too easy. Removing the sugarscoops was infinitely more difficult than reinstalling the new assemblies. For reference, in the past I've had to remove the sugar scoops for various reasons and it's always been difficult to get the aluminium ring back into place securely and to then get the bottom screw threaded. On my drivers side I had to go without a seal around the bucket because I couldn't get the sugar scoop on there if the seal was present.

That being said, imagine my surprise when I received my new H4's along with the prerequisite seal and they seated perfectly the first try. I started on the passenger side and literally starred at the empty bucket in shock when I realized that my new $200 investment was only held in the cavity by the smallest of lips at the top and the one screw at the bottom! At least the bulb assembly I removed was bolted into place with four stout screws...not 12 seconds later the whole new assembly was installed. Yikes. I banged on it with my fist ~lightly~ a few times just to see, but it sure seemed secure. Thinking this must be a case of beginner luck, I moved over to the driver's side of the car. 3 minutes later I was finished. Could it be that easy? Considering that the roads that I drive on daily are in such poor repair that my windshield wipers are constantly activated by fissures on the 5 freeway, how long before one of my new $200 investments comes leaping out of the bucket? As secure as they seem, anyone have any issue with them unwontedly extracting themselves at the most inappropriate time? Thanks in advance for any wisdom and/or reassurance.

[motorcop]

Don't forget to upgrade the relay for the lights.

[Uber-fanatic]

I stuck with the 55/60's to avoid needing the relay...I figured down the line I may install the more intense bulbs, and at that time I would install the relay; was I misinformed? I just went with the info from the tech forums recommendation as well as from the instructions on the actual site given by Wayne here.

[OttawaDave]

Others will chime in I'm sure, but the effort and expense involved with wiring some simp,e relays pales in comparison with the replacement of your high beams switch. Popular opinion seems to be pretty consistent that even with 55/60s, the relays are a good idea.

I swapped out my sugar scoops for the Bosch h4 units not too long ago...aside from the relay install, my experience was the same. Agree that the mounting system lacks a bit in terms of inspiring confidence though!

[Uber-fanatic]

Originally Posted by OttawaDave

Others will chime in I'm sure, but the effort and expense involved with wiring some simp,e relays pales in comparison with the replacement of your high beams switch. Popular opinion seems to be pretty consistent that even with 55/60s, the relays are a good idea.

Point taken. I will order the relay's this week if others concur. Thanks for the input!

[Joe Bob]

The relay is a good idea even with low wattage....

[Nine9six]

+1000 on relay install, even for the lower wattage!
You dont have to install the relays; but set aside an unending fund to replace hi/low beam/turn signal stalks as the contacts self-weld themselves together.

[kodioneill]

Some install a lanyard on the assemblies for piece of mind.

[jorian]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

Some install a lanyard on the assemblies for piece of mind.

+1 on the lanyard. A zip tie from the back of the H4 to the inside of the bucket will save the assembly should it pop out. I have seen this happen at a track day. To add insult to injury, the guy ran over his own trim ring.

The seal and seat of the ring is critical to the fit.

I was considering an upgrade to some sort of HID unit until I did the relay upgrade which allows me to run 80/100 watts. Switched back to 55/60 soon after as the car looked like Wrigley field at night coming down the road.

[Paul K]

+911 for the relay install. Almost as easy as the H4 upgrade, and well worth it. The relay takes the workload that the old switch isn't very good at taking.

I agree it seems like they're 'barely held on'.

[Lukesportsman]

As a 911 owner, I found it humorous when Jeremy from Top Gear was destroying an old 911 (the only thing humorous) as he found difficult, the headlight falls out as he comes to stop in which he kicks it to the side. And I thought, not Porsche's most over engineered item.

[Brandon-FL]

Not to hijack the thread, but I am going to be installing a set of H4s this week. Does anyone have a photo of the zip tie lanyard install? I like the idea and I'm wondering where you tie it off in the bucket and on the light assembly?

[AV8TOR]

Greetings Fellow Pelicaners,
I too am a little confused about the H-4 install....
Below are pictures of a set of H-4s that I will be installing in a car in
the not to distant future. HOW do these H-4s mount. All I see is a hole
in the bottom of the trim ring where the "funky" screw goes thru
the bottom of your typical trim ring, there are no other mounting holes
that I see. Are there mounting brackets that attach to the rear of
the H-4 assemblies to attach to the 4 mounting tabs in the headlight
bucket







pokemon

[nineball]

you may want to pick up one of fred's ato-style fuse panels with the relays built in. makes for a nice clean install and upgrades your fuse panel at the same time.

[rusnak]

Relays are a good idea when running any halogen lights. They need good strong and tight connections, or they will produce a lot of heat.

[Uber-fanatic]

Originally Posted by jorian

+1 on the lanyard. A zip tie from the back of the H4 to the inside of the bucket will save the assembly should it pop out. I have seen this happen at a track day. To add insult to injury, the guy ran over his own trim ring.

The seal and seat of the ring is critical to the fit.

I was considering an upgrade to some sort of HID unit until I did the relay upgrade which allows me to run 80/100 watts. Switched back to 55/60 soon after as the car looked like Wrigley field at night coming down the road.

Originally Posted by Paul K

+911 for the relay install. Almost as easy as the H4 upgrade, and well worth it. The relay takes the workload that the old switch isn't very good at taking.

I agree it seems like they're 'barely held on'.

+1

Originally Posted by nineball

you may want to pick up one of fred's ato-style fuse panels with the relays built in. makes for a nice clean install and upgrades your fuse panel at the same time.

I've looked at these, and see one in my future...

Originally Posted by rusnak

Relays are a good idea when running any halogen lights. They need good strong and tight connections, or they will produce a lot of heat.

This is why I love this forum! I will purchase the relay, probably install the zip-tie upgrade as it's cheap and affords some peace of mind, and then I'll look into the fuse panel replacement.

AV8TOR: Yes, the precariousness of the attachment is what made me post this in the first place. The entire assembly is held in the cavity by the small tabs at the top and the one screw at the bottom. Crazy when compared to how securely the previous bulb is mounted. I think I will take the suggestion of those in the know and finagle a wire tie onto the back and through the now unused bolt holes...I would really pain me to watch one come rocketing out of it's home and onto the 10 freeway...

[tanmanbgoh]

bump

[Skip1]

I installed the relay in about 10 mins (most of that was getting the carpet out too...). Well worth the investment, as I'd already had to clean up / service the highbeam switch on the column several times (which took me longer each time than it did installing the relay). Very clean with no fuss.

Skip

[rouxroux]

Yep, and they sure look better IMHO....here's a "1/2 and 1/2 comparison" from years ago:

[Jesse16]

And to add an option, the "combo" look. Old fashioned, 7" round reflector (albiet, a really nice Cibie unit), high wattage H4 bulbs w/relay kit, and the original trim ring, with a clear glass cover. Still the same minimal one screw hold-down method, still seems to work. Have a plan to body shop the trim ring and remove all the bolt holes except the bottom one. (have to do a little inside revision to firm up the mount and remove the adjust screws sticking out.)