Updated Tensioner question....

[IAN]

I'm planning on installing the updated Tensioners in my 72 911T.

I'm planning on ordering the kit. What other parts will I need? Should I replace the ramps? What about spacers? What about the 2 studs on the chain housing that won't be long enough? How hard is it to remove the old studs from the chain housing.


Other tips??? Somebody once told me they need to be bled properly, but wayne doesn't mention this in his book.

Thanks.

[Shakenbake]

Replace the ramps, add the spacers, studs on the chain housing can be found at Home Depot (bolts, cut the heads off). Removing the old ones are a piece of cake with some needle nose vise grips. Do a search on this subject and look for replys from Warren aka Early_S_Man. He helped me tremendously with my carrera tensioner update....ceb

[Jadams1]

Muffler gaskets, oil filter and related gaskets, update the chain wheel supprt arms to the later ones used after 1980 1/2. They cost around $68.00 each. You don't need the spacer with the later style support arms.

right support arm p/n H-105-510-00
left support arm p/n H-105-509-00

If you go with the later style arms, replace the roll pin that holds the wheel shaft to the arm.

p/n J-197-010-00

I re-used the circlips, (p/n N-012-415-1)

As far as bleeding or priming the tensioners, I just installed them and started the engine and let it idle. I had no problems.

[T Bird]

Ian
I did this last summer to my 72. Forget the spacers. Replace the chain sprocket supports with the later style.

As for the two studs, squirt some penetrating oil on the front and rear of the two studs. Wait an appropriate period of time for the oil to do its work and then use the double nut technique to remove the studs. Mine came right out in 2 minutes flat. I used grade 8.8 M6 all thread to make new studs, which I purchased from a metric hardware supplier near my home. One meter of the stuff cost me $5. As I recall, the overall length of the studs I made was 57 mm. The studs project from the chain case 42 mm. I noticed that someone posted several weeks ago with a Porsche part number for an M6 X42 stud. I have not been able to verify the part number personally, but I wrote it down for future reference as 900.061.092.02.

Replacing the ramps when you do the tensioners makes sense. Check the tech article on tensioner replacement. Also, Wayne's book has a chapter devoted to the subject. There are tons of archived posts on the subject as well. There is a Panorama article on this subject from around 1985 (?) that covers tensioner and ramp replacement in detail. This is must reading.

There is currently some controversy about whether the pressure fed tensioners need to be primed before installing. I don't recall that this issue has been resolved yet. There is a thread on that matter as well.

Good luck.

[BK911]

Now's the perfect time to do a valve job and check/adjust the cam timing. You need some additional parts and tools, but you've done most of the work already just getting to the tensioners.

And the tensioners do need to be bled. This is done automatically when you start the car. The tensioners were designed without internal seals. This allows the oil to leak through to keep a fresh supply of oil in the tensioner.

Have fun!
BK

[Jim Sims]

The two studs are BM6x42 (6mm diameter x 42mm long); the Porsche part no. is 900.061.092.02 but it is easy to make them. When we did this on my son's '73 we used the double nut technique to remove/install. Cheers, Jim

[Wayne 962]

There's a lot of debate about the new tensioners and how to 'prime' them. I haven't been able to come up with a definitive answer from anyone in the industry. Check the archives, I posted an 'official' response from our supplier of these...

-Wayne