Remind Me How To Remove Chain Tensioners

mca · 07-07-2012, 01:33 PM

I'm replacing my cam seals so I don't need to be concerned about the chain going slack when I remove the tensioners. Four years ago I rebuilt my engine but I can't freaking remember how I removed the tensioners.

Wayne's rebuild book (teardown section) says that the cam nut, spring washer and sprocket can all be removed ... before removing the tensioners. This doesn't make sense to me b/c the tensioners are in the way of the sprocket - plus there is a ton of pressure on the chain.

Can someone refresh my memory?

Also, I'm worried about the gap between the tensioner and the idler arm. The old idler arms came with a spacer but I believe mine were updated by the previous owner. Can anyone confirm that this gap is ok? Been running like that for four years.

timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

You need to compress the tensioner and install a small pin in the hole as a keeper to hold it down. Then it should just slide out. I used a small prybar to push down on the idler arm.
Didn't keep the pins? Use a cotter pin.

mca · 07-07-2012, 03:04 PM

Thank you. A wire hangar also works well as a pin.

Quote:

You need to compress the tensioner and install a small pin in the hole as a keeper to hold it down. Then it should just slide out. I used a small prybar to push down on the idler arm.

Didn't keep the pins? Use a cotter pin.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Craig,

I was able to remove the hydraulic tensioners in all my other projects by sliding them out using a pry bar. Installation would require compressing the tensioners. Remove the retaining nut that secures the tensioner and don't forget to place something under the chain to prevent accidental dropping of the nut or washer into the crankcase.

Tony

mca · 07-07-2012, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

I was able to remove the hydraulic tensioners in all my other projects by sliding them out using a pry bar. Installation would require compressing the tensioners. Remove the retaining nut that secures the tensioner and don't forget to place something under the chain to prevent accidental dropping of the nut or washer into the crankcase.

Thanks Tony. I have some shop towels blocking the hole to the internals.

Do you know anything about that gap between the tensioner and the idler arm?

Also, I used a new chain during my rebuild but didn't change the cam sprockets. Should I go ahead and buy new sprockets or just leave it alone?

john walker's workshop · 07-07-2012, 05:45 PM

the gap is fine because you have the updated arms. i set the engine at Z1 for #1 cylinder then just pop the tensioners out. at that position, the cams stay put. removing the left cam nut requires the tensioner to be removed, then a spacer tool is installed between the tensioner stud and the arm to keep the chain tensioned so a socket or crowfoot tool can remove the nut. i use a 1/2" impact and 46mm socket for removal.

mca · 07-07-2012, 05:57 PM

Thanks for commenting on the gap.

I was able to remove the cam nut with the tensioner in place. And I managed to keep everything at Z1. Just gotta pull the tensioners and replace the cam seal ... and re-time the cams.

Currently my cams (964 grind) are pretty advanced - 1.5mm. Think I'm going to set at 1.26mm this time around.

Quote:

the gap is fine because you have the updated arms. i set the engine at Z1 for #1 cylinder then just pop the tensioners out. at that position, the cams stay put. removing the left cam nut requires the tensioner to be removed, then a spacer tool is installed between the tensioner stud and the arm to keep the chain tensioned so a socket or crowfoot tool can remove the nut. i use a 1/2" impact and 46mm socket for removal.

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mca

Thanks Tony. I have some shop towels blocking the hole to the internals.

Do you know anything about that gap between the tensioner and the idler arm?

Also, I used a new chain during my rebuild but didn't change the cam sprockets. Should I go ahead and buy new sprockets or just leave it alone?

Craig,

Saw the pictures of the cam sprocket you posted and it looks worn out already. Personally, I won't put that back on my engine unless you don't want to spend for a replacement sprockets which I doubt. Check and measure the sprocket alignment. Take your time and carefully take the readings. Get the alignment numbers as close as you could get it using the spacers.

Did you use a machinist straight edge and caliper to measure your sprocket alignment last time the sprockets were installed? Are you asking the gap or thickness of the 'spacer' between the tensioner and the idler gear? They are available from our host. But I could measure them if need to know. Keep us posted.

Tony

mca · 07-07-2012, 06:20 PM

Tony,

I'll get new sprockets. Should I also pony up for new idler arm sprockets?

I never measured the alignment during the rebuild. I just kept the spacers the same as they were when I disassembled the engine since I didn't have any machining done. I'll measure this time around.

Craig

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mca

Tony,

I'll get new sprockets. Should I also pony up for new idler arm sprockets?

I never measured the alignment during the rebuild. I just kept the spacers the same as they were when I disassembled the engine since I didn't have any machining done. I'll measure this time around.

Craig

Craig,

The idler sprocket shown above does not look bad at all in the picture. But I would seriously inspect them and compare the gear/teeth to the new cam sprockets. Most likely they are still in good condition. A close physical inspection of the part would determine to change it or not. At this point, I'll say I would use them for my engine.

Tony

mca · 03:31 PM

Ok. Got everything out today and pulled the cover plate so that I can change the gaskets and o-rings. This thread is now deviating from focusing on tensioner removal

.

I'd love to know WHY the seals started leaking in the first place. It seems to me that the paper gasket may have squeezed out / down somehow? I'm puzzled since it has only been 4 years. I tell ya what though ... those gaskets were hard to remove from the thrust plate. Almost hardened like plastic.

I have new gaskets and I purchased the green Viton o-rings instead of the red o-rings. I plan on coating the entire o-ring and both sides of the gasket with Curil-T. Is there anything else that can be done to prevent a future leak?