Who can walk me thru replacing short oil line under the distributor ?

[sugarwood]

The hose in the photo is weepy.

I've been putting this off for 3 years.
Mostly, because I am petrified of messing up the distributor and making the car no longer run, and maybe even ruining the engine.

When I asked about this a few years ago, it was over my head:

"Just get the distributor lined up on TDC number one then pull the distributor and the fan and the other things in the way."

That is not enough detail for someone like me.
I have no clue how to line up TDC, not sure if I need to pull the cap or entire distributor, and what else needs to be removed.
I also did not see this in my Bentley.

I have 3 days off.

Can someone take the time to spell out exactly how this hose needs to be replaced?
Ideally, someone who has replaced this cable within the last few years.
What exactly needs to be moved, etc.

Thanks!

[proporsche]

Hi..well? here it is.........
to set the tdc use 24mm socket or you tool kit wrench.Turn the alternator until you see these marks appear.
here


then use flat head screwdriver and remove the distributor cap.

Set the pulley timing so the distributor rotors points towards number one here


then you can use 13mm socket and long extension and remove the distr.nut and washer.
After try to pull out up- the distr.If it is not going use a long screwdriver and help it from the right angle under the distr.bracket -part of the housing so be gentle.
Once you have it out use 12mm open wrench and disconnect the oil supp.line.After use 14mm wrench and undo the nut at the cace.The 17 mm wrench and undo the trough bolt on left side.
After you remove the camshaft oil line i would replace the alu.seal under the engine cae fitting and also the seal under the camshaft housing where the trough bolt goes later.

is this understandable for you.?

Ivan

one more thing..when you remove the distr. cover the case hole so nothing gets in!!!
I forgot,remove the plastic heater pipe ....

[carreradpt]

Search is your friend.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/106220-replacing-left-cam-oil-line-help.html?highlight=left+cam

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Hi..well? here it is.........
to set the tdc use 24mm socket or you tool kit wrench.Turn the alternator until you see these marks appear.
here


then use flat head screwdriver and remove the distributor cap.

Set the pulley timing so the distributor rotors points towards number one here


then you can use 13mm socket and long extension and remove the distr.nut and washer.
After try to pull out up- the distr.If it is not going use a long screwdriver and help it from the right angle under the distr.bracket -part of the housing so be gentle.
Once you have it out use 12mm open wrench and disconnect the oil supp.line.After use 14mm wrench and undo the nut at the cace.The 17 mm wrench and undo the trough bolt on left side.
After you remove the camshaft oil line i would replace the alu.seal under the engine cae fitting and also the seal under the camshaft housing where the trough bolt goes later.

is this understandable for you.?

Ivan

one more thing..when you remove the distr. cover the case hole so nothing gets in!!!
I forgot,remove the plastic heater pipe ....

Sugar,

Follow the above suggestions and if I may add, use a pen marker to indicate the location of the mounting bolt by the slot. This will give you a good reference point when you install the distributor back. Don’t let anything fall inside the engine when you remove the ignition distributor. And take a few pictures of the distributor.

Tony

[sugarwood]

Thanks for the replies.
I have a few questions below.

So, first get it to TDC
Yes, I learned how to set TDC when I tried to adjust valves.
I don't need to remove the fan belt, correct?

Next, remove the 6 spark plug wires from the cap.
I will number them and write a diagram so I remember the order.

Then, I need to underscrew the distributor cap.
This is just 2 Philips screws at the base? Cap comes off easily?

After doing some reading, I just learned that the cap has arcing electrodes in it.
It's not just a plastic cap! So, I will replace mine, it might be from 1986.
$35 Beru Cap = 93060291900
$8 Beru Rotor = 93060290201

What else should I replace except cap and rotor? #3 & #8

Set the pulley timing so the distributor rotors points towards number one here

I don't understand what this means. How do I do this?
Does this automatically happen since I've already set it to TDC ?

Then, remove 13mm nut as base of distributor.
Why did I remove the cap in the first place?
Why not just remove the whole thing with cap still attached?

Next, just lift the distributor straight up and out?

Then the oil lines will be obvious to remove?

After you remove the camshaft oil line i would replace the alu.seal under the engine cae fitting and also the seal under the camshaft housing where the trough bolt goes later.

What does this mean? I only ordered the oil line.
Are there extra washers I need?
Anyone know the part numbers?

, use a pen marker to indicate the location of the mounting bolt by the slot.

Not sure what this means. Anyone got a photo?

Here is a photo from another thread.
Can you digitally mark up what I am supposed to mark? I just see a bolt.
So, not sure what alignment you're trying to preserve

[proporsche]

sugar..there is no need to remove the spark plug wires from the cap,so do not do it-that is extra unnecessary work and you can damaged them.
Also no need to replace the cap,that is following a rule if it is not broken why replace it.
By turning the alternator with the belt on you will be turning the crank pulley.Do not remove the belt.
Yes the 2 screws on the cab are easy one twist and they pup out --they have a springs.
All you have to do once the cap is off leave it in place,you can use the bottom of one screw as a hook and lift it out of place with a tape.
By turning the engine to TDC you either will be on cyl.number 4 or another rotation to cyl number 1 as shown on the pic above.You have to remove the cap to see the marking on the base -edge of the distributor.
Those aluminium seals at the fittings could be replaced if you see any movement of those fitting while removing the 14mm nut on right or 17 head oil bolt on left.If not do not worry about it .

ivan

[sugarwood]

Thanks.

Got it. TDC might be rotor on #4. If so, then spin it 360* again, to get rotor on #1.
(This looks like 1pm when facing rotor by standing at left side of car, looking into engine)

All you have to do once the cap is off leave it in place,you can use the bottom of one screw as a hook and lift it out of place with a tape.

Not sure what you mean.
What step is this describing. Removal of base of distributor?

Cap is detached, and what is "use screw as a hook?"
Why using tape?

[boyt911sc]

Sugar,

Take some pictures of the distributor showing how it is installed indicating it’s position with reference to the mounting bolt and the position of the rotor to the scribed mark on the distributor housing @ Z1 TDC for #1.



You need to remove the distributor to gain access to the oil cam line fitting behind it. When you install the distributor back, it will probably take you a couple of attempts to get it back as it was. Two (2) reference points to consider are:
1). The position of the rotor with the scribed mark.
2). The position of the distributor body using the “mark pen” reference.

After you are done, recheck your ignition timing using an inductive timing light.

Tony

[proporsche]

once you have the cap of you will see that the screws have on the end L shape hook,so to get it out of your working space i usually hook it to the cruise control cable if you have one, or rubber band or electrical tape away from the location so you have more room to work..

[GH85Carrera]

One other "trick" I found to be helpful.....

When you are putting the two little copper rings on the banjo fitting, it needs to be dang near surgical CLEAN!. A tiny microscopic bit of dirt or debris will cause it to leak. I had a heck of a time getting my banjo fitting to stop leaking. I went through a bunch of the sealing rings. I asked a buddy that is a long time Porsche mechanic for any tips. He said to tighten them, then just back them off just a little, then tighten them again. It is like getting them to seat in.

Personally I think the hardest part of the entire process is getting those banjo fittings to stop seeping. Good luck.

[offroader1006]

Sugar, where are you located?

I use a sharpie to draw the outline of the bolt on the distributor, it's more accurate to get it back into the correct position.

If you do want to replace the cap/wires, you can mark the old cap and wires using various color paint pens and numbers or dots to ensure you get them back on the correct spot. You can also label the wires with masking tape.

There are 12? teeth on the distributor gear, so, if you get the distributor on in the wrong position, the rotor's position will be of by a minimum of 30 degrees, in relation to your mark on the distributor rim. If it's off any less, just turn the distributor body and check your bolt marks.

[offroader1006]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

One other "trick" I found to be helpful.....

When you are putting the two little copper rings on the banjo fitting, it needs to be dang near surgical CLEAN!. A tiny microscopic bit of dirt or debris will cause it to leak. I had a heck of a time getting my banjo fitting to stop leaking. I went through a bunch of the sealing rings. I asked a buddy that is a long time Porsche mechanic for any tips. He said to tighten them, then just back them off just a little, then tighten them again. It is like getting them to seat in.

Personally I think the hardest part of the entire process is getting those banjo fittings to stop seeping. Good luck.

This is good advice. You can apply some thick grease to the washers to get to stick to the bolt easier.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

The hose in the photo is weepy.

What kind of cheap oil are you using, Sugar ?

[sugarwood]

Thanks Tony. I can't understand what you're saying, since it's a case of only understanding what you're describing if you've already done it. It's really unfortunate that the classic 911 DIY market has virtually zero video after 20 years of forum existence.

I don't know how a distributor comes on and off, nor have I ever actually held one. I know how a nut and bolt works, though. But, I have no idea why you'd mark a bolt stud. The stud just sticks out. You just put the thing back onto the stud, like putting a donut onto a stick, like ring toss. and screw down the nut. There is only one way to put a thing onto a bolt stud. So, why would you ever mark it? . Is there some "rotation" idea that I am missing?

If R&R of the distributor requires a timing light, this repair may be out of my ability range.

[sugarwood]

Glen, thanks for the tip. Your same tip was posted 3 years ago in my first thread, and that is part of the reason I gave up and never tried it.
In both threads, you're the only person who has ever mentioned leaking after replacement, so I think you may have gotten a faulty part.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by offroader1006

Sugar, where are you located?

I use a sharpie to draw the outline of the bolt on the distributor, it's more accurate to get it back into the correct position.

.

NY

I simply do not understand what you are marking.

There is a hole in the base of the dizzy.

Why is this any different than 1000 other car parts where you just
stick the stud thru the hole, and screw the nut on ???

Why do you mark anything??
Why can't you just stick the thing back onto the stud ?

[QueWhy]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Thanks Tony. I can't understand what you're saying, since it's a case of only understanding what you're describing if you've already done it. It's really unfortunate that the classic 911 DIY market has virtually zero video after 20 years of forum existence.

I don't know how a distributor comes on and off, nor have I ever actually held one. I know how a nut and bolt works, though. But, I have no idea why you'd mark a bolt stud. The stud just sticks out. You just put the thing back onto the stud, like putting a donut onto a stick, like ring toss. and screw down the nut. There is only one way to put a thing onto a bolt stud. So, why would you ever mark it? . Is there some "rotation" idea that I am missing?

If R&R of the distributor requires a timing light, this repair may be out of my ability range.

Maybe it is because the only people that like air cooled 911s are old and don't understand technology, plus everyone knows younger generations don't care about cars and they will all be worth $0 anyway so why waste time creating content. Just like everyone knows supply has no correlation to demand. sorry I couldn't help myself

How do you expect to verify everything is back where it was and working properly?

yes

Originally Posted by sugarwood

NY

I simply do not understand what you are marking.

There is a hole in the base of the dizzy.

Why is this any different than 1000 other car parts where you just
stick the stud thru the hole, and screw the nut on ???

Why do you mark anything??
Why can't you just stick the thing back onto the stud ?

You need to read more and posts less.

The timing is set by rotating the distributor. People are telling you to mark it so it goes back on the same place. The timing light comes in to verify your work and make small adjustments. Putting the distributor back in the exact same spot can be a little tricky because the gears on the bottom of the distributor are curved so when it slots into place it doesn't stay where you initially align it. All this info has been covered in numerous threads and can be found in good old fashion books too. Get the 2-3 books that get recommended over and over and acquaint yourself with the advanced search function.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/106220-replacing-left-cam-oil-line-help.html

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Thanks Tony. I can't understand what you're saying, since it's a case of only understanding what you're describing if you've already done it. It's really unfortunate that the classic 911 DIY market has virtually zero video after 20 years of forum existence.

I don't know how a distributor comes on and off, nor have I ever actually held one. I know how a nut and bolt works, though. But, I have no idea why you'd mark a bolt stud. The stud just sticks out. You just put the thing back onto the stud, like putting a donut onto a stick, like ring toss. and screw down the nut. There is only one way to put a thing onto a bolt stud. So, why would you ever mark it? . Is there some "rotation" idea that I am missing?

If R&R of the distributor requires a timing light, this repair may be out of my ability range.

Sugarwood,

You are indeed correct. You have a Motronic engine and the ignition timing is not manually adjustable by rotating the distributor housing like those in earlier 911 models. I was thinking of pre-84 911 systems.

An inductive timing light could read your actual ignition timing but could not make the adjustment by simply rotating the housing like those in SC’s and earlier models. Please accept my apology for the confusion.

Nobody in this forum is infallible even the best and experienced individuals. We all learn from each other experiences good or bad. I actually learned something from you today. Thanks.

Tony

[sugarwood]

Thanks Tony!
That clears everything up!

I searched for some images and see that the SC distributor has a slot that is like an alternator bracket.
This looks nothing like the 3.2 distributor I posted above.
So, it now makes sense that for an SC, you could mark the rotation of the distributor

I now see that QueWhy is still mistaken. Take another look at the first photo with the hole.
This rotation does not apply to the 3.2 since there is a hole stud, and not a channel track.

Well, this development sure makes my project a lot simpler!
So, for a 3.2, you just yank the distributor, and stick it back on.
There is only one way it goes on and off, b/c hole.
No timing light either.

Funny, I've read every distributor thread on this entire forum,
and not one made this distinction. Glad to contribute!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Thanks Tony!

I searched for some images and see that the SC distributor has a slot that is like an alternator bracket.
This looks nothing like the 3.2 distributor I posted above.
So, it now makes sense that for an SC, you could mark the rotation of the distributor

I now see that QueWhy is still mistaken.
This rotation does not apply to the 3.2 since there is a hole stud, and not a channel track.

That makes my project a lot simpler!
So, for a 3.2, you just yank the distributor, and stick it back on.
There is only one way it goes on and off, b/c hole.
No timing light either.

Sugarwood,

Don’t forget to orient the distributor rotor to the scribed mark on the distributor body (#1) and the crankshaft pulley @ Z1 TDC (#1) during installation or removal. Both these conditions must be achieved. Do some practice runs with the distributor cap removed and crank the pulley to Z1. The crank pulley will rotate 2 revolutions (720°) to 1 revolution (360°) of the distributor. At Z1, it could be TDC for #1 or #4. You could verify by looking at the rotor position.

Another version if the distributor is not installed is use the valves’ clearances for cylinders #1 & #4.

Tony