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scotricker's Avatar
 
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Thanks all, for the input. I've been running BP 20-50 oil. Before tearing into the engine, I verified the temp gauge and sender in hot oil and a real thermometer. So, yes, temps are approaching 250 on a hot day on the highway! I checked the hard oil lines tonight, and the lower one has an indent, like from a lift pad, right behind the front wheel well, but it's not crushed by any means. just compressed a little. The trombone gets hot, so oil is going there. I will confirm again soon. I noticed a few different choices for front fender real coolers from Pelican, or elephant racing, or mocal, so I think I'll be putting one in soon.

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78 911SC coupe, sold,, 2019 Macan S
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:50 PM
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What I did to lower temps

1. Get the Oil cooler for the front right fender,
2. Some people use other brands but I use the LUCAS oil treatment..1 for every 4 quarts. this will lower the temps and treat your engine right.
3. Check out this thread and my post for the other necessary oil system mod, this will do great things for your pressure and foaming...
Oil spewing from oil tank breather
4. Clean your motor, top and bottom....remove the alternator and clean out all the gunk and dirt from the top of the motor. All of this dirt and grease traps heat.
5. Clean your oil tank, you would be surprised how much dirt and junk surround your oil tank and keep heat in.
6. get rid of the heat reactors and go with the SSI setup for the exhaust. The cooling fan helps cool the headers and cuts down on radiant heat.
7. I got the "HEAT SHEETS" for the valve covers and they look nice, and they say they work, but I cant offer any real proof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DohertyCM View Post
Reduce the foaming in the tank and it will reduce the oil coming out of the breather. Dempsey touched on this in his book and it worked for me plus increased my oil pressure and decreased temperature.
The first pictures show where the nuts are located and the third photo shows the difference between the two.

The part number is 901.105.361.01. the part cost about 5 dollars each..




Have fun
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:00 PM
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Going through the same thing right now. I have my engine torn down and I still have not found a smoking gun. My sc was running at 250f on a not so warm day. I had a lot of small items that were troublesome but nothing obvious. At this time I'm doing a top end refresh. Machine shop found the exhaust guides were badly worn that could be a issue along with the rest of the little things.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercury26 View Post
Agree on the oil cooler, I added the Carrera oil cooler and fan (plus BMW 210 degree thermostat) and saw a big decrease in temperature on my SC. I was pushing 230 to 240 on really hot days (90+) with no air conditioning on or anything. Now I have not gone above 210 degrees, even with a 100 or so day on Friday and pushing the engine hard. I am very happy with the upgrade and decreased temps, very good peace of mind.

Regards,

Chuck
Chuck,

On the BMW sender; did you just pick one spade for the ground and use the other for the factory sender wire? Thanks
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:28 PM
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I noticed that my car didn't cool as well when the trombone cooler was covered in road crap/grime. I clean mine with a little steel wool (superfine) now and then. That seems to help. I also have the air scoop for mine. The only time I've had issues with it getting past the 9'oclock is in stop and go traffic on VERY hot days. I can't imagine stop and go in 100 degree weather not hitting 9'oclock or more with a trombone cooler.

The fan should help. But ultimately a carrera cooler upgrade would be ideal. Although I'm sure the fan is probably more than plentiful (and a big cost difference). The trombone cooler isn't totally useless, there's just not a ton of air moving past it, so any extra amount helps. Keeping it clean also maximizes how well that effect even works.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shbop View Post
Chuck,

On the BMW sender; did you just pick one spade for the ground and use the other for the factory sender wire? Thanks
Yes, one to end to ground and the other to the factory relay that I installed. I made my own wiring harness based on a schematic somewhere on this site. The sensor just completes the circuit when it get's hot enough and activates the relay.

Thanks,

Chuck
Old 05-07-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mercury26 View Post
Yes, one to end to ground and the other to the factory relay that I installed. I made my own wiring harness based on a schematic somewhere on this site. The sensor just completes the circuit when it get's hot enough and activates the relay.

Thanks,

Chuck
Thanks!
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:18 PM
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Last summer my newly acquired SC was running in the 240F range in mid 90F heat here in Mississippi.
Having all the classic signs of living in "Mouseville", I was determined to use a shop vac and decreasing diameter lengths of hose small enough to sneak past the fan and on top of the engine to remove the obvious bits of debris I could visually see, including but not limited to pieces of pecan shell, but it wasn't until we pulled the engine out for a top end build that I was really able to address the problem. <- end of run on sentence.
That being said, I'm more than certain you can remove the right hand upper valve cover and address any debris/mouse nest that may be atop your oil cooler. In my case there was a nest and the fins of the cooler extremely impacted with tiny bits of pecan shell. We couldn't use a dental pick to remove the bits, didn't want to use compressed air and bend things, anything liquid such as water was going to swell the bits up.....the successful method wound up being to actually drop the inverted oil cooler on the garage floor from a height of a mere inch or so in order to knock the trash out.
Drove my car today, only about 78F ambient but had a hard time managing to get to 190F, bone stock with the trombone.

Last edited by SCadaddle; 05-07-2013 at 06:38 PM..
Old 05-07-2013, 06:35 PM
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This thread got me thinking...and so has my car since it's finally sorted and I have time to pay attention to how its driving instead of awaiting the next issue.

My '78 SC runs as pictured, took this after 20 minutes of driving, couple red-line shifts but mostly hanging around 2500-3500rpm. Car has completely stock trombone but I've added the air scoop. Its 75-80F here today.

I can't find the degree numbers mentioned, the picture is normal operating. It will go up another needle width if stop-go or I'm really thrashing it.

Is this normal for my set-up

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Old 05-10-2013, 12:10 PM
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Inside the bezel on the left side are temp numbers in centigrade. Put your head close to the steering wheel turn eyes left.....small and a stoopid place to put them....but they are there.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Inside the bezel on the left side are temp numbers in centigrade. Put your head close to the steering wheel turn eyes left.....small and a stoopid place to put them....but they are there.
Damn it Joe Bob.... In Deg. C...I can't do dem kakerlashuns

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:36 PM
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Write a letter to Ferd IV.....see where it gets ya....

Here ya go, sweetums....

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Last edited by Joe Bob; 05-10-2013 at 12:41 PM..
Old 05-10-2013, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DohertyCM View Post
1. Get the Oil cooler for the front right fender,
2. Some people use other brands but I use the LUCAS oil treatment..1 for every 4 quarts. this will lower the temps and treat your engine right.
3. Check out this thread and my post for the other necessary oil system mod, this will do great things for your pressure and foaming...
Oil spewing from oil tank breather
4. Clean your motor, top and bottom....remove the alternator and clean out all the gunk and dirt from the top of the motor. All of this dirt and grease traps heat.
5. Clean your oil tank, you would be surprised how much dirt and junk surround your oil tank and keep heat in.
6. get rid of the heat reactors and go with the SSI setup for the exhaust. The cooling fan helps cool the headers and cuts down on radiant heat.
7. I got the "HEAT SHEETS" for the valve covers and they look nice, and they say they work, but I cant offer any real proof.
Where do you get one of those oil filter covers....?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom View Post
Where do you get one of those oil filter covers....?
Dude......that's a cool collar....where ya been?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Write a letter to Ferd IV.....see where it gets ya....

Here ya go, sweetums....

So my piece is running 240-260F...

Think its time for a Mocal fender cooler set-up kids
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911SauCy View Post
So my piece is running 240-260F...

Think its time for a Mocal fender cooler set-up kids
That gauge is from a later SC. 78 and 79 have a different gauge and sending unit (sensor).

911 OIL TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE MODULE OVERLAYS
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:16 PM
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Yours might be the first one in that pic but I'm not 100% certain. You'd have to look for the tiny numbers.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:18 PM
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Unless you want to go out and buy one....I can send you an IR temp gun....point click, temp.....send it back when you are done.....
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Unless you want to go out and buy one....I can send you an IR temp gun....point click, temp.....send it back when you are done.....
I truly appreciate the offer but I think an oil cooler "mod" is in order.

It's a longevity and preventative kind of upgrade...which I am all for.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911SauCy View Post
So my piece is running 240-260F...

Think its time for a Mocal fender cooler set-up kids
This is what's in my '78SC. Those #s are really in there. There is a center line @ 9 O'Clock.

Top of bottom hollow white box looks to be 60C and the beginning of the red is 150C

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"The car has been the cave wall on which Industrial Man has painted his longings and desires." -Eddie Alterman-
Old 05-10-2013, 02:46 PM
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