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Upgrading Engine
Down the road, I am thinking of Upgrading my engine (2.7) to a 3.2.
There are a few questions I have. 1. Is it a lot more work (labor) to go to 3.2 instead of a 3.0 and what would the R&R run me. 2. Will I have to buy a lot more parts going to a 3.2 (that has DME) than a 3.0 and what can I expect the extra material to run me 3. I have heard that the 3.2 made prior to 87 are better however that the 87 and beyond have a better transmission (950 vs 915). 4. I have had my 2.7 rebuilt (top & bottom) once already. Buying a used 3.2 vs another complete rebuild, is this a good move. Any feedback is appreciated and thank you in advance for your time help |
Go nuts and put in a 3.6 with PMO's... :D
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Why are you thinking of changing your engine to begin with, are you having problems?
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I am not having any problems with the engine at this time. I also just have the transmisioon
completely rebuilt. I just use the car for normal driving. I just wanted some more torque and power and I did not want to rebuild the 2.7 again because of the cost to have it done right. When I had it rebuilt, I had case savers and a few other things put on so I could "tighten" thing up. As you know, to rebuild a 2.7 right is not cheap. Thanks for the feedback |
one tbing to consider is i tbink the 915 on the 3 liitre is much more fobust. if youbare having your gearbox rebuilt keep this in mine.
you should watch the wheeler dealer show on the 911 |
I have a 915/61 fully rebuilt transmission now.
Can I use it on a 3.2? What is the 911 wheeler dealer show? |
maui44,
What are your DIY inclination? Where are you located? Since you have a nice-running properly rebuilt 2.7 and a fresh 915, keep it in your 911. Consider buying a matching and guaranteed good running 3.2 with G50 with all the necessary ‘accessories’ from a salvage. Find a local Porsche friend with a Carrera with the engine & trans out. Install the salvage in his chassis and test for compliance with the warranty. This is easy and only expends oil, some filters and a few pieces. This will also tell you about the transmission. Let the chassis owner enjoy a few miles on his disabled 911. With a few knowledgeable Pelican friends, this is a one-day weekend procedure – pizza during, beer after. Do a thorough ‘PPI’ on the parts. With several oil changes and some ‘break-in’ miles, preserve the fuel system. Once satisfied, take your engine & trans home. You now have a “known-good” 3.2 engine and G50 transmission properly preserved, sitting in the corner of your garage. Take your time. Plan all the little details of the conversion into your 2.7 chassis (BTW, what year, model?) Now, if the urge overcomes you … take your time and rebuild the 3.2 engine back to new-original or … buy new 98 mm P&Cs and the necessary twin-plug pieces and chip it appropriately. If all this seems like overkill – it is. However, it is fun and will keep you out of trouble. The investment in ‘home workshop’ is doable for most and is an ‘investment’ for worthy grandchildren. Fear not. The Forum can help you through almost anything. Most of the ‘professionals’ use sub-contract vendors for much machine work – so can you. Remember, a 911 engine was assembled by mortals using the same pieces you can buy from Pelican Parts and the simple skills in a workshop manual. You have an advantage over the Factory: time. When you have a question, you can stop and ask. You have another advantage over the Factory: hindsight. You can install all the little ‘updates’, just as with the 2.7. When you make this conversion, I’ll encourage you to carefully preserve your original 2.7 and 915 for posterity. Having the ability to return to ‘numbers matching’ original is worthwhile. With it clean and drip (smell) free in a glass box, it can make a great coffee table. :D I hope this helps. Best, Grady |
what year is the car?
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Grady,
Some very good feedback and something to think about. I appreciate everyone words of wisdom. |
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You may have local helpers (Pelicans & PCA) willing and able to help. :cool: Best, Grady |
Maui44.
Wheeler Dealers is a UK tv show about restoring modern classics. Here is the link to the exact thing theiceman was referring to. Only about 30 secs in you should see the transmission information. Porsche 911 targa part 4 - YouTube |
Some very good feedback and something to think abouthttp://www.repu.info/h.jpghttp://www.repu.info/d.jpg
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Watched the wheeler dealer show(s), did anyone else notice how the front bumper side marker lights just vanished and the correct euro fillers appeared? :)
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Good catch
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Also remember to defray some of the cost of buying a larger engine, you can sell your 2.7L and the 915 if you decide on the G50. If it were me, I'd just go with the 915 though. Good luck.
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Marv,
Why would you stick with the 915? Thanks, Ron |
off the top of my head:
1) the 915 is lighter than the g50. less weight is the functional equivalent of moar powar! 2) the g50 clutch is hydraulic, which will complicate the gearbox swap as the 915 clutch is cable operated. 3) the g50 is different dimensionally than the 915, which requires a change in where the rear torsion bars are located. 4) the shift linkage is also different, but i don't think that is nearly as big a problem as the clutch and torsion bar issues. swapping out a 915 for a g50 is much more complicated than a simple drop-in replacement. the torsion bar change is a pretty big deal; the hydraulic clutch would also be a hassle. the main advantage of a g50 is that it shifts more like what american drivers typically use. a 915 in good repair, with properly adjusted linkage in good repair, and a driver used to its quirks is a very useful and usable gearbox. and finally, keeping your 915 in the car will be a lot cheaper :) |
2 reasons I can think of:
I believe you would have to modify your back seat tunnel area for the G50 to clear. (Not sure as you haven't posted the year of the car you have, My guess is a '77 S) Lower purchase price for a 915. Plus all of the above... :) |
Timmy2
The vehicle is a 1977 911S Targa. Will I work the 915 to hard with a 3.2 |
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