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OsoMoore's Avatar
 
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Home Engine Detailing?

I'm waiting to put new wheels on my car (spacers in the mail), and I just replaced my oil cam line.
I'm pretty sure there is still some oil leaking slowly from somewhere else. I want to find the source of the oil leak, I want the engine to look nicer, and I want to have fun messing with the engine.

It seems like cleaning and shining it up is a good idea! What is the best way to go about doing that? I'm not looking to put the car on display, and I need to do it at home in the garage without removing the engine. What are some good solvents/soaps to use? Should I go after it with a scrub pad?

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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery.
Old 07-05-2012, 09:18 AM
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Some simple green, a bucket of warm water, an old rag and a toothbrush.

Seriously. Don't use a scrub pad just yet, as this may be too agressive on the painted surfaces. Take your time, and just do a little each session. Think of it as an ongoing process.

I just did mine, and the results are good. I'll put some pictures up this weekend.
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Christopher Mahalick
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1965 Suzuki k15 Hillbilly, 1975 Suzuki GT750
Old 07-05-2012, 09:27 AM
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wood scrapers for big gunk

then use limonene (orange oil) & a water based detergent, alternating them - use small brushes

last use brake cleaner if you're finicky
Old 07-05-2012, 09:28 AM
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My only addition to the good suggestions above is to avoid strong degreasers as they tend to oxidize the aluminum and make it look worse. Once you get the engine clean, a wipe down every time you wash the car will keep it clean - I usually wash the car and after rinsing everything off, I use the soapy wash rags to do a quick wipe down of the engine.
Old 07-05-2012, 09:54 AM
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Simple Green sounds like really good stuff - I did some googling and most people recommended it. I have to figure out if anyone in my area sells it.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:37 AM
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The Porsche Club has a great doc on Zone 8's web site ( Southern CA Zone ) that outlines a Concours level detailing plan...I have used this and have won 3 full concours in the C-4 category this year - have fun...http://zone8.pca.org/Articles/concours101.pdf
Old 07-05-2012, 10:41 AM
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Simple green will eat thru anodizing.....IF you use it, don't let it sit long. 'Purple Stuff' is a 50/50 H20 mix available thru chain parts stores. Works well....eats rubber gloves and kills spray bottle mechanisms.

Gunk engine cleaner....pricey but works. Consider a pressure washer for underneath.

Cover intakes and distributor. Blow out dizzy cap afterwards anyways....
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:42 AM
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P21s works well for me, & as Joe Bob recommends protect electricals & intakes.
Good Luck.
Old 07-05-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Simple green will eat thru anodizing.....IF you use it, don't let it sit long. 'Purple Stuff' is a 50/50 H20 mix available thru chain parts stores. Works well....eats rubber gloves and kills spray bottle mechanisms.

Gunk engine cleaner....pricey but works. Consider a pressure washer for underneath.
Joe Bob is Spot on. I also used the "Purple Stuff".

Now, if you don't mind the smell, Original Gunk is the Bomb! Use on the bottom only, or your engine will smell like a chemical factory for the next three years, LOL. I used Gunk to clean the engine compartment while the engine is out.

But, as always, start with the least agressive stuff, and work your way up.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:44 AM
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I use the Wheel Cleaners that are designed for NON clearcoated rims.
it will not "etch" the raw aluminum pieces, its safe on all painted surfaces (fenders and such...) and it cleans great !
Old 07-05-2012, 12:17 PM
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I use the Wheel Cleaners that are designed for NON clearcoated rims.
it will not "etch" the raw aluminum pieces, its safe on all painted surfaces (fenders and such...) and it cleans great !
Old 07-05-2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Simple green will eat thru anodizing.....IF you use it, don't let it sit long. 'Purple Stuff' is a 50/50 H20 mix available thru chain parts stores. Works well....eats rubber gloves and kills spray bottle mechanisms.

Gunk engine cleaner....pricey but works. Consider a pressure washer for underneath.

Cover intakes and distributor. Blow out dizzy cap afterwards anyways....
I find the Purple stuff to be a lot more aggressive than Simple Green - dunno re Al (or Mg), but it can really mess up your paint.

There is a recent thread on Krud Kutter - one person said it was way better than Simple Green, IIRC.

BTW - if the engine is out of the car, then explore the threads on what to do while engine out - use those search terms.

also read up oil leak threads - there are certain areas that are frequent violators

Be sure to spray all the nice clean Al & Mg with an oil, wax or Tectyl (search button again) - to make it ugly again (but protected).
Old 07-05-2012, 12:52 PM
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get a biodegradable de greaser like "Holy Cow" (ace hardware) not aggressive like purple/green but does a great job....works well enough without worrying about rubber and alloy reaction.
Old 07-05-2012, 01:07 PM
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I'm having good luck with straight Pinesol lately. It doesn't each aluminum finishes like Simple Green and also seems not as expensive.
Old 07-05-2012, 03:15 PM
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I let my wife clean the underside of our 356 before entering the Porsche Parade Concours.....we won our Class and Division!
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:31 PM
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RKT,

you win!
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R K T View Post
I let my wife clean the underside of our 356 before entering the Porsche Parade Concours.....we won our Class and Division!
I'm guessing it was darn clean to start with with. You wouldn't dare crawl under most cars in white clothes to start cleaning.

Back to the original poster, I too have had great luck with Simple Green. Someone also mentioned brake cleaner which works well too but be sure to wear gloves or it will really dry your skin out.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb View Post
I find the Purple stuff to be a lot more aggressive than Simple Green - dunno re Al (or Mg), but it can really mess up your paint.

There is a recent thread on Krud Kutter - one person said it was way better than Simple Green, IIRC.

BTW - if the engine is out of the car, then explore the threads on what to do while engine out - use those search terms.

also read up oil leak threads - there are certain areas that are frequent violators

Be sure to spray all the nice clean Al & Mg with an oil, wax or Tectyl (search button again) - to make it ugly again (but protected).
Never suggested using Purple stuff on paint or anodized parts....hence the 'eats gloves and sprayer mechanisms' comment.

In all cases read the instructions, wear eye protection and clothing. Flip flops aren't a good idea. It is primarily recommended for mag and aluminum that have oil deposits. A wire or stiff vinyl brush should be used to agitate the baked on material.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:42 PM
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If anyone has pics of their engine compartment before, during and after a spray down, that would be very helpful. If you have pics of the motor's essential parts all covered up prior to water spray, please post those too. Thanks!
Old 07-05-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERKD e28 View Post
I use the Wheel Cleaners that are designed for NON clearcoated rims.
it will not "etch" the raw aluminum pieces, its safe on all painted surfaces (fenders and such...) and it cleans great !
WERKD, any wheel cleaner product names that you can share?

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Old 08-01-2012, 04:47 AM
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