Setting the dizzy?
 

Hey, is there detailed instructions somewhere with step by steps to adjust the dizzy?

Adjusting, 0-5 degree on idle and 30-35 degree at 6000 rpm. Never done this before, just adjusted my carbs from instructions, and now hope to find "dummy" instructions about adjusting timing.

Properly running distributor will set 5 deg at idle but the early cars, warmed up, you are to free rev the engine to over 4000RPM and that will be your 30 to 35 deg advance. lock the distributor and when you idle the advance should be the 5 BTDC area.
Bruce

^ what he said.

You have a timing light?

Well - then set it up for 5 degrees when warm and idling.

Then, while keeping the light on the crank pulley, rev it to 6000 rpm and see what it shows.

I like an adjustable light (That you can dial degrees in the back) and I set it at 35. If the mark comes in at zero or close to it, you are good to go.

You should be very very careful around the running engine (fan and belts). Don't wear long sleeves, nothing hanging around your neck and stay clear with your fingers and tools.

If the distributor does 5 degees idle but not 35 or close to it at 6000, you will need to check it and / or get it recurved.

HTH,

George

Thank you for answer, just to be sure about this. My crank pulley has markings 30 and 35, is this the marks to be aiming for? I also found two markings T1 or somethings, is this the TDC and the 5 degree mark?

Z1 mark is TDC. I am not aware of 30/35 marks, I always used the dial on my timing light to set this up. If you don't have a timing light yet and are ready to buy one, spend $15 more for this option. That way you only need to know what the TDC mark is and dial the rest on the light.

https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...NUCD6rXm0slB7w

HTH,

G

Thank you, I allso want to buy one that has a tachometer,

I don't worry what the idle timing is doing, only the high revs advance.

After setting timing, out on the road we go, full throttle high revs and listen carefully for pinging, if it does then back it off a few degrees (so there is no pinging) and you are good to go. It works for me.

Just a note that pinging= BAD -do not continue to do this.

If you have points and a gap to set, ensure that is set accurately before you consider doing the timing.

Points and a gap to set? Please explain, new terms for me.

The vacuum line from the intake manifold to the dizzy, should I plug it or leave it in?

Some information on your engine would help. What is the original year and model of the engine. Also, has it been modified, and if so what did you change.

2.7L (-75), Webers, CIS 2.7 S cams, 3-1 headers, Dansk muffler,

Inside your distributor there are points. They must be in good condition and the gap must be set before timing can be set. Also, internal parts must be clean and moving freely. Distributor cap and rotor must also be in good condition.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344980381.jpg
In this picture you can see that there is corrosion that must be removed and parts lubricated so they move freely. If they are not working properly, timing cannot be set.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344980605.jpg

What about he vacuum tube to the dizzy?

Vacuum line is connected to check at idle, and disconnected and plugged at 6,000 rpm.

when I owned cars w/ points i'd pull the distributor to set the point gap w/ a feeler gauge while the dizzy was mounted in a bench vise. It's very quick and easy way to do it.

then when it's back in the car check the dwell reading, high dwell means low gap, low dwell means high gap. Gap at the wide end is the goal.

many will tell you to set the engine @ TDC compression for cyl#1before pulling the dist. but that is not necessary, do note where the rotor points and when refitting the dist. have the rotor point to the same place.

There are several threads here, search 'points'
here's one

another

I've borrowed a timing light with tach, but the tach was not able to show more than 5000 rpm. I was then only able to look at the idle. When disconnection the vacuum hose and plug it, the idle revs up to maybe 1800 and it's at about 5 degrees BTDC. With the vacuum hose connected as normal and rev at about 900, the BTC is about -5 or -10 degrees.

Question: Should I have the vacuum hose plugged or connected when driving the car normally?

Just because your timing light does not show RPM past 5,000 doesn't mean you can't still look at it. Just aim the timing light at the timing marks on the pulley and briefly rev the engine. You will see the timing marks advance then stop advancing at some point. This is your total timing - whether it happens at 4,000 RPM or 6,000 RPM, because it stops advancing, it doesn't really matter what RPM it is at. We always say 6,000 RPM because that is high enough that the advancing will have stopped. Stopping below that RPM is fine, as long as you get around 35 deg BTDC.

You don't NEED to have the vacuum hose attached while driving it, but it does retard the timing slightly at idle. I think this is mainly for emissions.

Thank you very much!

Don't worry about hurting anything by revving your engine to 6k rpm. It can withstand that easily for 10s of seconds at a time.

Just look at the tach on the dash by positioning yourself so you can peek through the gap between the open rear decklid and the body of the car. Hold it at 6k rpm and then look at the timing marks.

If you can't find a good line-of-sight from your timing position to the tach, ask a family member or friend to sit in the car for you and push the gas pedal to get it to 6k rpm. Make sure they go rev up slowly, not to over-rev it (in case your limiter is not working).

Good Luck!

George

Today I've tried to set the dizzy, I rev it to it stopped advancing, I got it clos to 30 degrees, but it wasn't room to rotate it more. When driving afterwords, the car went no good. I't seems more noisy (kind of like hole in exhaust) and weak. I've tried to set the advance back a bit, close to where it was, but still no good.

As previously said by Aigel:
I'd reset the idle timing back to where you started so that the car runs good again. You may have issues with the advance mechanism being dirty or rusty and not working as needed.

Once you set the timing back to where you had it, report back here:

What is the idle timing set to?

What is the timing advance stopping at with high RPM?

For 1975 2.7L:
At idle (900 RPM) advance=5 deg ATDC with vacuum hose connected.
At 6,000 RPM advance = 32 to 38 deg BTDC with vacuum hose disconnected.

Have you done this yet?

If your distributor is equipped with points then this needs to be done prior to setting the timing with a light.

This link shows what is in your dizzy if you are interested. It should be a 0231 184 xxx as shown in the second half of the post.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/692119-distributor-maintenance.html

I can hear a clicking sound from my dizzy, I check the gap size at the point, I think I only have one point, that correct? What should the gap be, 0.4 mm as normal cars?

One set of points and .35mm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346164710.jpg

It seems that two small parts of the plastic rotor on the distributor has broken off, circle 1 in the picture. Circle 2, seems that there has been some "scratching" on the outside of the rotor in this area.

Is this sign of something? Is this bad?

I guess the major question is. did you remove the distributor? I am assuming that you did not. If you had, you had to replace the distributor in the exact position that it was previously. To check, turn the crankshaft via the alternator bolt clockwise to TDC and make sure that that the rotor lines up with the line (indentation) on the body of the distributor. That will put you in the range. In that position, turn the distributor with the ignition on until you hear a click and that should have set the distributor at 0 degrees. I would then go from there. The correct timing position will be less than a 1/4 of an inch or around 5 degrees at idle. Rev it up and as a previous post mentioned, the advance will only advance so much, around 5k rpm and you got it. I would also recommend a dwell meter to set the points. Not too sure what your setting is, but mine is around 37. Good luck.

Not sure about the broken piece, but the contact area dragging on the cap like that means that you either had the cap on crooked or that the shaft of the dist. is wobbling.

G

I have now measured the dwell angel and set the points gap. The engine sounds and runs perfect with no load, but when driving and accelerate, it's noisy (sounds kind of like a tractor) and runs poorly, less power. This occurred after I've adjusted the distributor initially. Before I've touched it, the engine was running perfectly, but the timing was way to retarded and made the engine very hot.

A strange thing, when adjusting the timing more retarded, I can hear a "click-clock" sound from the distributor, when advancing the timing, the strange sound goes away.

What could be wrong? The distributor needs rebuild? One of the spark plugs are faulty? The carburetors gives to much fuel after adjusting the timing (should not have impact after 3000 rpm?) Chain tensioner has failed? The coil has failed? Someone have a clue?

Bryan, did you remove the distributor? Sound like you might have the distributor one tooth off from where it is supposed to be. If you did and would like me to send you a picture of my 70 t with on TDC and you can see where the rotor and distributor should be in relation to the fan housing, etc. Steve

I did not remove the distributor, but soemthing is wrong. Please send me the pic. thanks a lot

When setting the points, and I have been doing it on and off for 25 years, I still need a dwell meter to get it on the money. I am assuming that you have the dwell meter. If you did not remove the distributor, that must have been quite a job getting it close. I will send the pic tomorrow. I have a Bosch in my car, not a Marelli, can't tell what you have. Steve

I used a dwell meter. My dwell angel was way to much, about 55 deg (my gap to small), I've adjusted it to about 35 deg. I used two attempts. First one I put about 0.35 mm gap and got 20 deg. Second I tried little more than 0.3 mm and got 35 deg.

Problem still the same as before, but the car runs and sounds good without load.

Given the pieces missing on your rotor, you may want to try swapping in a new rotor and cap. I've had issues with them before. At one point I even used a rotor without the rev-limiting spring just to eliminate another variable.

Is the vacuum hooked up properly? Is it working (not plugged, you can feel the vacuum)? Can you freely rotate the rotor through its range and does it spring back to its default position?

I had the vacuum hooked up, now I have plugged the vacuum as its only retards the timing at idle to get better emissions. I can freely rotate the rotor and it springs back.

Does the distributor move sideways in the direction of the orange arrows? This would mean play in the shaft bushing.
When suction is applied to the vacuum uunit, the plate should move in the direction of the yellow arrow.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346499664.jpg

Remi,

The tractor sound is pinging - this is very hard on the engine and is caused by too much advance. You are somehow setting it incorrectly. Set it at idle again - back to where you thought it was too retarded - and see if it drives OK.

You say it was way too retarded earlier - what makes you think that? What was the idle timing set to?

The ticking sound coming from the distributor could be the rotor hitting the inside of the distributor cap and chipping the rotor as your picture shows. Are you sure you have the rotor pushed down all the way on the shaft? Personally, I don't like the RPM limiting rotors and use just a regular rotor - but that one should work just fine.