Custom valved koni yellows, Bilsteins, or Bilstein RSR struts for a track car.

[5:04]

Hey guys,

Once again I come to you for your never ending experience and good advice.

I'm currently trying to figure out what to do with my suspension set up.

Currently I have Koni Yellow Adjustable dampers front and rear (less than 2k miles) with a 23/30 torsion bar set up and full aero. I'm trying to figure out what direction to go with this


Option 1 - Send current Koni's out to be custom valved, and send struts out to get modified for more camber and spindles raised (if possible)


Option 2 - Switch to bilstein struts and dampers, send them out to have the spindles raised and decambered, and have the dampers valved for stiffer torsion bars.


Option 3 - Switch to Bilstein RSR Struts and RSR rear dapers. I have a great deal on them and can get a full set at a fraction of msrp.


The car is a 1976 911S with a mildly built 2.7 putting down around 200whp.
2100lbs
964 bumpers/skirts/3.8 Decklid with banana wing/frame mounted splitter.
Weltmeister sways.
18x8.5 18x9.5 CCWs with Hoosier R6's 245/285

I'd also like opinions on switching to 24-33 torsions.

[KTL]

Those Konis can be damaged if the shock bottoms out. So be sure you have suitable bump stops on the shock shafts.

I would recommend the raised spindles simply because it improves your steering geometry (bump steer reduction) and slightly improves the camber curve

The Bilstein RSR struts are nice pieces but the damping in them out of the box is said to be a really poor valving. So what you end up doing is having your brand new dampers revalved. But if you can get a really good deal on them? That's a good way to go.

23/30 is a good amount of spring for a relatively light car like your '76. Going with 24/33 will ratchet-up the harshness substantially. If it's a dedicated track car, so what. But if you have to drive it to/from events, that can beat you up pretty quickly.

Why the very large wheels? You could get away with much smaller (and lighter) wheels like 15 in. if you're using original sized brakes. You can still get plenty of tire from Hoosier in 15 in. sizes.

[Plavan]

I would suggest going to Bilstein-

One stop shop here Home Clint will take care of you.

[rattlsnak]

Tell us how much you will drive the car on the street vs on the track..

[5:04]

About 90-95% track. No a/c, no heater, no radio, no sound deadening, one bucket seat, half cage, etc. Pretty dedicated. I drive it to and from the track and to occasional meets.

My preferred option out of these three is the one that gets the lowest lap time.

Plavan - Rebel is who I've been looking at to do the work. Your is awesome btw, a big inspiration to me.

KTL - Thanks for the response. They do have bump stops. The large wheels are more of a preference thing. The brakes are 928S up front and 930 in the rear.

Another question is what I will have to measure to ensure that my brakes swap over to the new strut if I change.

[ShakinJoe]

Option number 3 all day long.

[5:04]

Originally Posted by ShakinJoe

Option number 3 all day long.

Care to elaborate why? I'm not doubting you, I'm just looking for explanations on why one over the other. Most cars I'd have no doubt on what my set up would be, but 911's are very unique and I'm still very unsure on why certain options are better than others.

[ShakinJoe]

Sure. The RSR units are coil over I am assuming. You are not trying to keep within race class rules so a coil over will give you great handling if you can get it to work with those big tires.

The choice number two is old school torsion bar and will be harder to drive fast but arguably more rewarding.

I agree with KTL on the wheels.

[RSTarga]

Call chuck at elephant

[5:04]

Finally called Clint, and I must say he is very pleasant to deal with. He advised me to go with the RSR struts since my supplier offers a set that has better valving, then to use a pair of his rear dampers. I'll also be converting to coil-overs during this process.