a/c evaportator....

JeffW · 07-13-2002, 05:28 PM

How the heck do you get this thing out? There was a few brackets holding it in but I can't figure it out. The A/C hoses were not fun to get out of the car and I'm sure putting them back in is going to be just as fun but that darn evaporator has got me stumped... Anyone?

Thanks,
Jeff

JeffW · 07-14-2002, 12:57 AM

I know some one has pulled these before, right?

Joeaksa · 07-14-2002, 05:30 AM

Jeff,

Bob Hodges here in Phoenix has done one. You might contact him directly.

rwhodges7@hotmail.com

Joe

Sunroof · 07-14-2002, 08:32 AM

Jeff...
I had a thread going a few weeks ago about the difficulty of replacing AC lines but it seemed to digress into the old R12 vs. R134 debate. I have to replace two lines both of which go to the evaporator in the smuggers box. Tough right angle fittings that look easy to unscrew, but tough to snake back in. Some suggested that the lines be cut and replaced without the fittings, but you need to have the lines off to properly crimp with a fair sized machine. Others have suggested the "Ez Clip" fitting that still takes a heck of a lot of pressure to get the fitting in the hose. The toughest hose looks like the compressor to the evaporator. Either way if you using R12, the barrier hose must be rated for at least 200 PSI or 300 PSI for R134.

Please let me know how it goes for you. I do not believe the evaporator needs to be removed for the exchange, rather its what fitting you plan on using and "threading the needle" through patience.

Good luck

Bob
73.5T

JeffW · 07-14-2002, 09:49 AM

I wanted to remove the evaporator to clean it and change the expansion valve. It just won't pull out though so I'm wondering if there is more to it. The hoses were difficult to pull out but putting them back in doesn't seem to be such an issue. I'm going to get all the hoses pre-built on both ends and have the gromets put on before they crimp the ends on. The passanger side hose is the only one that looks like trouble but if you take the back wheel off it shouldn't be an issue.

bob hodges · 07-14-2002, 12:17 PM

Jeff,

I did go through the torture of messing with the evaporator some months ago. I had a fan motor to change. I took off the half shell of the fan shroud only to find that the clips that hold the halfs together were installed at the factory and Chandler is a long ways from Stuggard. After I broke the tabs on the shroud and took an hour fishing out the clips from the bottom of the smuggler's box, I decided that there is no way the clips were ever going to go back on, so I used .032 safety wire to secure the shroud. I never had the experience of going past the fan removal but I can tell you that if you really really don't have to remove the evaporator coils don't fix it. I cleaned mine with a vaccume. The other big problem is the flex duct from the fan to the inlet duct going into the car. Porsche does not tell you what size or do they show it in their PET. If you need any of the duct let me know I have lots. Sorry to ramble on without answers but I just had to share what I called a bad day.

JeffW · 07-14-2002, 12:49 PM

Sounds like it. I saw the clips and almost pulled them but changed my mind. I'd like to pull it out and clean it, being 25 years old I'm sure its full of crap. Thanks for the info.

JeffW · 07-14-2002, 01:00 PM

looks like there is a bolt underneath holding it in....

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/0-6.JPG

bob hodges · 07-14-2002, 04:50 PM

Jeff,

When I pulled the cover off mine, I have to say it was not that dirty. I say not dirty enough to get into pulling the coils out and clean. I think this is one of these jobs that if you tear into the disassemple you will be calling Wayne for parts that were working just fine prior to the decision to clean everything up. I am speaking from experience as I have a T-Shirt and coffee cup in this.

Chris Bunker · 07-14-2002, 05:04 PM

There is a bit of a trick to it. I did this last year.
There is a duct of sorts that resides underneath the passenger footboard. It is where all the return air from the cabin goes into the evaporator. It has an electrical temp (I believe) sensor on it.
The duct is attached to the rear wall of the smugglers trunk with four screws. The tricky bit is that it has an extension that fits into a cutout in the evaporator case. The evaporator is going nowhere until this return duct is removed.

The return duct is item #9. It fits into the trapezoidal shaped cutout in item #1.

This one doesn't have a sensor, the one on my 78 does.

So pull the passenger floorboard out, remove the 4 screws for the duct, and you should be home free.
The little dingus on the bottom is the condensate drain. It fits through a hole is the floor.

Chris
78SC with a rebuild evaporator but no AC yet

88911coupe · 07-14-2002, 09:02 PM

I gave up trying to get those clips off to clean out my evaporator. Sounds like it may not be worth the trouble. Could I access/see the evaporator using the "through the floorboard" method? At least I could see in there too tell if it's dirty at all. Does the air from the cabin go back over the coils, recirculating the air?
Thanks

SeaDweller · 07-15-2002, 08:57 AM

An evaportor with improper airflow will absolutely kill the performance of an A/C system. Not only is air flow diminished, but you can't properly charge the system, because the expansion valve doesn't work properly.

When I pulled my evaporator, there was a thick, paper-like "patch" directly in front of the fan, that was impeding air flow significantly. Unfortunately, you can't see the fan side of the evaporator without breaking open the case.

This process was easier for me, because I have an underdash system, however regardless of the system, a blocked evaporator will wreak havoc on system performance.....

Roland Kunz · 07-15-2002, 02:35 PM

Hello

The evaporatorcase is splitet in upper and lower section. The upper section is holded down by two metallarms ( 25, 26 ). The lower section is siting on the floor guided by the water drain tube. To pull that you first have to remove the Intake nozzle ( 9 )from the passengersided footweel.

Also to pull the unit you have to remove the temperatureprobe from the ranko switch and the hose.

The upper half is clamped tp the lower half with 4 metall tap clips wich can be removed and then you can lift out the upper housing including the fanassembly even without touching the evaporator or open the pressurized system.

I always use the Wynns AC system ( cleaner & sealer ) for used evaporators.

Grüsse

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

The best way to remove the top half is get a thin long screw driver and place it behind the clip to pop it off. Once it's removed the evaporator will be visible.

If you want to remove the evaporator, disconnect the power wiring to the fan, loosen both nuts on the expansion valve - you will need a 12" and 6" crescent wrench to do this. Once the expansion valve is removed, remove the capillary tube that is inserted into the evaporator being careful not to crimp or break it. It controls the temp (on and off switch for the compressor)

Once the capillary tube is removed, you can remove the evaporator and clean up the box it sets in. Check the connection from the bottom of the box to the cabin - the connection there has a tendency to deteriorate. This is the inlet to the evaporator from the cabin.

Once everything is cleaned up, reinstall everything in reverse order. The only problem you will have is reinstalling the clips. I used a stainless steel wire with a 90 at the end. Attach the bottom clip to the lower lip, and use the wire to pull to top half of the clip up over the top lip. It's hard to do, but it can be done. If that doesn't work, then get a couple of screws, drill a pilot hole in the area alongside the clip and screw it down. Two on each side will be plenty.

Steve

Roland Kunz · 07-16-2002, 04:06 PM

Hello

I use a screwdriver and move the clips sideways.

The case doen´t like to much force and can break. Mostly the nose for the clip will brake off.

I also have modified a 90° external ring vice from snap on.

The unit just fits into the holes on the clip and you then just spread it to remove it or to put it back on again.

If not then use PVC zip ties around the clamp block.

Grüsse