Hi Glen. It's a tec 3 from electromotive. The tbs are 50s from pmo. Clewitt engineering sells the whole set up.

Wow looking great. Keep us posted.

Fantastic build thread and great pics! Thanks for sharing.

You mentioned SSI's for the exhaust.... the 1.5" diameter may be too restrictive for the 3.6 (if it's the exhaust I'm thinking of) - might be worth looking into some 1.625" or 1.75" headers :D

Great looking engine - agree that SSI's will not be optimal - even for a stock engine - with ITB's you will want a bigger tube primary. Looking forward to seeing the development of this.

Sweet !!
 

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Very, very nice !! I just sold my 3.6 conversion (Ruby) to focus on other projects. I'm trying to get over her but it's been very tough emotionally.... I hate selling my cars. Seeing this project will make me second guess that decision for a long, long time. Can't wait to see how this turns out. Looking awesome so far!!

I also wondered about the SSIs. James Patrick, who I consulted on the build, provided them and said they would be perfect. I was worried about the engine being too loud (I know, I must be getting old). My 289 Cobra had a 427 small block with an undercar exhaust that exited in front of the rear wheels. It was really loud and my wife wouldn't ride in it. As much as I tease her, she's really great and I want her to be able to come along. Here she is stealing the engine out of the cobra:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/4015aa11.jpg

Worst case, I run them for a while and then upgrade. What is a better solution? I want the traditional exit points like this dude:

http://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/projects/20429.jpg

Mine will look very similar when I am finished (if I have the skills that is!):

http://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/projects/20422.jpg

I installed the coil pack today and would have run the wires, but I spent way too much time calculating where 90 degrees before TDC (Z1) is so I could drill the cam and add the cam shaft position sensor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...F411290F7F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...F415B1BBB5.jpg

I also finally finished the fan. I need to get a belt so I can set up the fan pulley. It is starting to look like a real bad ass!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1BA214F799.jpg

Oops, had a couple of margaritas when I took that last picture. All my kids are home and life is f'ing fantastic right now! I taught them well and tequila is at the top of their booze food chain.

The exhaust on the engine appears to be 993 heat exchangers and not SSIs which should be fine for this application.

Mike, those are just temporary and give me a stable base so the engine sits solidly on the jack. They are already sold.

This is the SSI and muffler I have. Perhaps there's no difference, But I'll listen to the expert until I can test for myself.

SSI Sport Heat Exchanger Set 911 to 3.6L Porsche Part Distributed By Patrick Motorsports

http://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/pa...911-36-23k.jpg

Post # 46.

If you have the skills.........

You do brother, you DO.

Merry Christmas!!!

How is it that I feel like I worked on the engine most of the day today and got little accomplished?

I finished installing the cam sensor, trimmed the sheet metal so it would fit, installed the RSR modified fan, and installed the spark plug wires. Where did the time go??? Here are some pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1BADA97937.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1BA94A821F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1B9CB3927E.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1B9816CFAE.jpg

And my favorite shot of the day. How it will look in the car (well, without all the crap and empty boxes strewn all around):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1B924475FB.jpg

Methinks you are being a tad hard on yourself.

You have acomplished more than you think.............

Have yourself a nice drink and a Cigar whilst looking at what you have actually done!!!

Dude!!! Fantastic idea!!!

Me taking Wasserkuhl's excellent advice:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...29AC7E60A9.jpg

Even Better! Pipe smoking is a Lost pleasure.................FA Porsche did it!!!

and a fine choice of Whiskey............no ice..........smooth as butter in the sun.........

Enjoy!!!

Merry Christmas!!!

Not much better than a good scotch and nice smoke.

Merry Christmas to you and to all our Pelican friends!

Installed the pilot bearing in the flywheel and then bolted the flywheel onto the engine with a little drop of red loctite. Here's my cheapo Porsche tool to hold the crank ($6 Stanley gate strap with the top hole drilled out to fit over the stud).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6FA2122BB1.jpg

There aren't many Harbor Freight tools that I will use, but this 20 ton press for under $200 is one I will use. If you own a Porsche, you will need it for a whole variety of tasks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6FB3C61500.jpg

In order to install the throwout bearing, you have to compress the pressure plate. It doesn't take much (just more than you could ever do manually). I used three equal length deep sockets with a small piece of aluminum angle underneath to protect the pp surface. Once the pp is compressed, you can slide the t/o bearing in from underneath, slide the thrust ring over the top, and snap the lock ring into place. The trick is to use all three of your hands. Don't have three? Well, you're kind of screwed. Actually, while you hold the t/o bearing in place from underneath you can catch the end of the lock ring in the groove and press as much of it into place as possible. I then used my angled pick (bottom left corner) to press it fully into the groove. It makes a nice satisfying click when it drops into place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6FABD69701.jpg

Next I installed the clutch. I slipped a wrench over the crank pulley bolt and braced it against one of the studs to keep the engine from turning. The torque on the pp bolts is only 18 ft/lbs, but that is enough to turn the crank. This is a universal clutch alignment tool. It has interchangable tips to fit a wide range of pilot bearings. Some people don't like them, but I've never had a problem using it. It holds the clutch disk in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6FB8888279.jpg

I threaded the top bolt into place loosely just to hold the pp in place temporarily. Then each bolt got a drop of blue loctite and was hand threaded until snug. I held the clutch tool tightly in place while I gave the center bolt of each of the three sections a full turn. This locks the disk in place (hopefully, the correct place!). Because you are compressing the pp as you tighten the bolts, I criss-cross back and forth snugging each bolt no more than a turn or so at a time. Once they are all snug and the pp completely compressed. Each bolt gets 18 ft/lbs with the torque wrench.

[http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6FBD905C7D.jpg

Hopefully my tranny shows up tomorrow and I'll install it. I was going to have my stock 84 915 rebuilt, but found a relatively fresh one with an LSD for a fair price from a fellow Pelicanite. Once it arrives, I'll be puting mine up for sale.

I must be getting old dammit! My lower back is killing me. The wife seems to think it is from some kinky sex move, but I can't recall when that happened. Must be getting forgetful also.

Back on the car tomorrow or maybe later tonight if I get no better offers.

Made up a couple of fuel lines. I have a metric to AN adapter for the top of the fuel filter, but nothing for the return side. It looks pretty close to 3/8, so I wonder if I can put a 37 degree flare on it with a -6AN tube nut? Any other or better suggestions?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...211E606ECF.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...2123025106.jpg

Also, I removed the drivers side door panel, etc. here is a picture of the passenger side intact. They are in excellent shape, but I plan on using RSR cards. Do I need to retain any of these parts or can I sell the entire thing?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...219690D7F5.jpg

I'm also pulling the heated flag mirrors and will be selling them with the entire wiring harness and door switch. I found an original 74 style mirror in chrome, but I believe it should be black. I can powder coat it, but the heat may melt the plastic. Anyone have any experience with this?

All answers to my many questions are appreciated!

I may have answered one of my own questions. The return line has a fexible section on it with a female metric fitting that the adapter screwed right into. It appears to be a flare seal vs. the sealing washer that the fuel filter uses. I'm going to get a second adapter and see if it works.

Meanwhile, the big white cooler arrived today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7443E184BC.jpg

The final touch for my engine before it can go back in. Actually, I have to take it for a good steam cleaning and then paint the engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7448D1D6FE.jpg

Spuggy's old 915 with LSD! Even has the correct output flanges for my car. Thanks, Andy!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...744C8E4156.jpg

I'll try to get this bolted up on Sunday. Tomorrow, we celibrate my mom's 80th birthday. 22 people staying at my house Saturday night. Should be a blast!

Back to work now which is cramping my car building time!

I guess it's the little things that count. I did get my engine tin in the mail (thanks Andrew) and manage to run the engine console through the blaster and give it some paint, then bolted on the crossmember:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...EC7E2B7DF4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...EC75DD7B83.jpg

Ain't she pretty!

Ok I am drooling now.........

powder coat the exterior mirror? NOPE as the oven temps are too high. Good catalyzed epoxy paint will have to do.
nice project and thanks for sharing

Thanks, Dave, I thought that might be a problem.

Today was the first moment of truth.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7DD1A4CD3E.jpg

I've always felt there are three big milestones in any build:

1. Installing the engine
2. First start
3. First drive

I guess attaching the tranny is often one of the more challenging parts of getting the engine ready.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7DD637CC86.jpg

This one slid right in with only a little hesitation as I made sure the fork engaged the t/o bearing properly and I turned the output flange slightly until the splines on the input shaft lined up and it went right in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7DED7A3105.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7DDE5E76DC.jpg

My hardware is pretty crusty. I think the barrel nuts are the same ones used on the heads? I'll have to check that out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...7DE4CA86B9.jpg

She looks bad as****** :) that looks frigging sick!

Spent most of today preparing the rear quarter panels. The driver's side was pretty straight forward. A little more grinding and I can finish stripping the paint, smooth, and prime the panel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...972F540E1D.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...972B2DB931.jpg

Its almost a perfect fit. The passenger side on the other hand, required a good 6 hours of work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...972756E197.jpg

I had to split the panel and reconture it to match the rear bumper, cut the bottom flange off to make it parallel to the bumper flange, and fabricate and weld a new one back on. It was a real pain, but it will look good once the body work is finished.

It was interesting that the drivers side stamping was nice and crisp, while the passenger side looked like the stamping form was worn out. No crisp corners or straight flanges. All part of the fun. I want to be on the road in the late Spring, so chop-chop! Got to move it!

This pile of goodies showed up on Friday.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...34E31E0F87.jpg

Looks like an elephant took a big dump!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...34E65E4346.jpg

Suspension and oil lines. Brakes got here last week. Man, the projects just keep piling up!

What a fun build

Sweet!! I'm doing an ER suspension rebuild right now. Realized how crushed my oil tubes are....so I'll be ordering the same set you've got soon. Good luck and have fun!

Thanks men!

Craig, I've been following your suspension build closely. Really nice job! I think I'm ready. Of course I'm doing brakes at the same time.

Nice work Mark did you go Bilstien sports all round

That I did, Oz, that I did. Also 22/29 on the TBs. Got to account for the larger engine and need for speed!

This pile of crap is actually really good news.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...A72F65E52E.jpg

You see that demon box from Hell in the upper center? Innocently calling itself the Ungo box, it is just that. It was installed in the 80's and turns your car into a lump of dead meat. I bought the car and didn't realize it was lurking in the glove box. First time I went to start it after I got it home and the battery was dead. This evil medusian device interpretted that as someone attempting to steal the car and shut everything off except a low pitched stuttering growl eminating from the front bumper. I couldn't figure out what that was until I attached the battery charger and the growl turned into a full fledged blarring of both horns. The beast was sounding the alarm!

To make a long, woeful tail short, it turns out the failing 1980s installed stereo amp had gotten wet and shorted out drawing battery current when the ignition was off. I spent two hours last night removing the entire mess including the two door speakers that were completely blown. Who ever wired the devil box used 18 gauge black wire for everything, so tracing the wires was a royal pain. They also used those should be outlawed blue clamp splices to tie into the horns, battery power and ground. They even used the same wire to cut the starter wire at the plug below the ignition switch. I found everything and ripped it all out. Very satisfying!!! Here's the result:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...A734B51598.jpg

You can barely see the plug with the cut yellow start wire hanging to the left of the steering wheel. I left it out so I remember to splice it back together.

On a happier note, my BB 1 3/4" headers showed up today!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...A738F7E38C.jpg

Now that is exciting!

Those are pretty. Nice build man!

Thanks Gint. It's a labor of love and I wish I had more time to work on it.

Started the suspension and brake overhaul today. Got the driver's side apart and rebuilt the trailing arm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...52182D23FA.jpg

When I pressed the hub out, half the inner bearing race came with it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...5241C2B45A.jpg

Fortunately, there was just enough of a lip that I could grab it with the puller and off it came.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...52452BF867.jpg

I heated the oem rubber bushing, pried each half of the sleeve out, pushed the rubber bushing out, and then drove each half of the stubborn outer sleeve out of the trailing arm pivot. Then pressed the Elephant monoball into place and secured it with the circlip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...5249888704.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...524DADAC7C.jpg

I was able to press the rest of the wheel bearing out using the largest seal installer on the back side of the arm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...522622FC36.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...522D760200.jpg

Victory!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...5238354247.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...52323848AD.jpg

I then pulled the new bearing out of the freezer and pressed it into the arm. Actually, technically I pressed the arm onto the bearing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...52521FD293.jpg

Then pressed in the hub (after reinstalling the e-brake mount and bearing cover). The housing from the old bearing came in real handy for several operations including acting as a spacer to keep the wheel studs from hitting the press base.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...52567B6BFB.jpg

Ready to be reinstalled after I change out the TB and replace the spring plate which should arrive tomorrow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...525ACD4777.jpg

All said, it was a great day. I took the wife out for breakfast and she was happy. Got to work around 12:00, so a good 5 hours of work. If the spring plates and caliper paint show up tomorrow, I'll paint the calipers and rotors and replace the TB and spring plate. I have to go to Las Vegas for our annual sales meeting on Wednesday, so it won't go back together until next weeekend. Oh, I also have the remove the old sway bar mount and weld in the new heavy duty one. The work is just never done!

I feel like Craig today. It was 22 degrees outside after a high of 55 yesterday.

So, all that's left to do is epoxy the bushing races onto my adjustable spring arms that came today. And what better place than the kitchen table!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...D390023962.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...D38BF5765F.jpg

So I pulled the cover, spring arm, and tb. Check out the difference between the 24mm stock tb and the elephant 29mm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55D9810996.jpg

I also ground off the weak stock sway bar mount and welded on the much beefier upgraded version.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55DC4FC980.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55E2DBD237.jpg

Here's the new one clamped:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55EAB91496.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55E705F013.jpg

Welded in (with poly bronze bushing pressed in:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...55F21488B5.jpg

So tomorrow this side goes back together and I start on the other side!

So much for big plans! I don't think I was focused today. I put the trailing arm on, but had the spring plate too low. Took that back apart. Then I installed the e-brake cable (that was a *****), installed the rotor and caliper, and then realized I forgot the cotter pin in the e-brake cable nut. All back apart again!

Finally all is together and looks great! I decided not to paint the plating on the caliper. Turned out to be a good move as I leaked brake fluid everywhere.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...B84A91A427.jpg

Tomorrow afternoon I'll start the other side. I need a break and a drink or two.

How did you decide where to weld your new Wevo mounts? It turns out they are a diffent shape than the original ones so my markings don't really work? I still have my engine/transmission in the car and they come very close to the transmission mount. Any reference points?