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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southwest Indiana
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Heater boxes for '89 Carrera 3.2
Since I've finally got my BendPak lift set up I've been poking in and around my car. While my car is in fantastic shape I did notice that the flapper boxes had a bit of surface rust on them.
Thought I'd buy a set just to have when I get in the mood to replace them. Are the items sold by our host the same as original Porsche parts? I see that they are listed as OEM so I assume they are from the same source but without the Porsche name on the box. Seems to be two choices for one side (can't remember which) and one for the other side. Could someone chime in with correct items for my '89 Carrera 3.2, I do not have the auto heat, just the manual two lever system. Thanks! David
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'89 3.2 Carrera Coupe-Silver Anniversary-sold '06 GTI/DSG |
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Location: Manhattan Beach, California. Factory Delivery-Original owner-Retired engineer
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Quote:
Also lube the cables from the levers. Good luck, Gerry
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1986 911 Targa. Per Road and Track magazine: Only in L.A.: In the window of a bar in Hermosa Beach, California. "Happy Hour prices during all car chases." Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 12-11-2011 at 03:56 PM.. |
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I have done that. Actually they are in pretty good shape...just a bit of surface rust on the edges. Everything works OK.
Main reason is the car is totally rust/corrosion free and other than the heater boxes the car looks like new underneath. I just want to replace them sometime and want to buy them and have on hand. I know they are somewhat pricey...thats why I was wondering about OEM vs. Porsche. Thanks! David
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'89 3.2 Carrera Coupe-Silver Anniversary-sold '06 GTI/DSG |
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To answer your one question, I don't think they come with the porsche name on the box. As far as the choices for each side, it is just left and right.
It is your money, but I might suggest having them blasted clean and powder coated - then I lubed them a bit when I re-assembled them - they should be good for years to come, and you can pick your own color. ![]()
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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Heat.
Quote:
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1986 911 Targa. Per Road and Track magazine: Only in L.A.: In the window of a bar in Hermosa Beach, California. "Happy Hour prices during all car chases." |
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Quote:
David
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'89 3.2 Carrera Coupe-Silver Anniversary-sold '06 GTI/DSG |
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Yeah I know, but I couldn't just go with black - this way, I got a little of my freak thing going, they match the shocks (JD green) and don't clash with the body.
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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Any suggestions on how to remove these? I've read the threads about snapping the studs and have already snapped two on the driver side exercising great caution. The passenger side is really tight, with an oil hose nearby and some other large cable clusters up there. I'm trying to do this on my 87 with the engine in place. Thanks!!
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Rockmester, Liberal use of Kroil should help. Mine were frozen and my mech hit them 2-3 times over a day and they came off with no trouble. Many uses for Kroil as my shower head inlet pipe was frozen on after 40 years ..shot the juice to it and 4 hrs later it unscrewed easily and on went a new one !!
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15 year PCA member ![]() 1972 911 E Coupe - gone now 1987 Mazda RX-7 2+2 - still cooking Swift DB-1 FF & Swift DB-3 F2000 -not forgotten 1979 911SC 3.0 & 2000 Camaro |
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My advice, leave them alone. A bit of surface rust isn't going to affect their operation. Keep in mind the way they are exposed under the car and the high temperatures going through them are a perfect combination to remove the paint off of them and allow surface rust. But that heat also keeps them fairly dry and the rust somewhat at bay. Get some new ones and they will look like your old ones in short order.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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You have a point about keeping them installed. I may just leave well enough alone with the passenger side flapper box. The drivers side box needs to come out as I need to drill out the temperature sensor and try to repair for the autoheat. About the only tool I was able to get up in there was a 10mm closed end wrench. The one stud is really tucked out of the way and out of site. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Location: North Bay, ON
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My advice is to live with it. If two have broken off, you will break the third. Wait until the engine is out for something, and do it then when you have access. I had 2 new ones in a box for several years, now they are on. Alternate some penetrant and heat and they will undo nicely, no broken studs. I use one of those small pistol grip butane torches for these small fasteners. Get one, it always works.
To the OP, quit looking under there. Cheers.
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1986 3.2 to 3.4 conversion |
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Pearls of wisdom! I'm too far with the driver side but I think I may hold off on the passenger side for the time being. You have all good intentions when you get under there but without a lift lying on your back getting colder patience begins to wane.
Last edited by rokemester; 12-03-2012 at 05:17 PM.. |
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