The number on your wur should be in the yellow area. This one ends in 033.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358668822.jpg

The 83sc 3.0L WUR number should end in 140!

Mis-information.........
 

Jeff,

Not picking on you, but this is a technical forum!!!!!!! Better check your information before posting it. Look very closely at the picture posted by Dennis and it clearly shows the part number/ ID # as 0-438-140-033. The last 3 digits identifies a particular WUR (0-438-140-???).

So my next question to you is, what is your WUR ID #? Obviously it can not be -140!!!!!

Tony

You've got a lot to check out but one last point to make.

Regardless of you wur number, look closely at the picture posted by Timmy2. The top hole is the inlet (notice screen at the bottom of the hole), and the bottom hole is the outlet.

On your wur, the line with the banjo fitting should be connected to the outlet port--the bottom port in the photo--with a banjo bolt which is similar to the one in your first post except there are no threads on the top for another line connection, just a flat hex head.

The hard line on your wur, which is currently connected to the outlet port, should be connected to the inlet port--the top one in the photo--and the other end should be connected to the center top port of the fuel distributor (see yellow circled areas in Timmy2's other photo.)

Get rid of the rubber line that currently connects to the top of the flow-through banjo fitting.

Now, your problem is to determine if the port at the bottom rear of the fuel distributor ,where the hard line used to be connected, is the return port. If it is, connect it back to the return line to the tank, or if a T fitting was used, remove it or plug the connection from were the hard line was removed. If the hard line wasn't connected to the return port of the distributor, then you need to let us know just where that hard line was tapped because it shouldn't have been there.

Hey guys that's pretty good stuff.

I have no idea how this set up came to be must have been when the car was converted to FED/CA standards.

I am going to reconfirm all those line flows that I have articulated and based on your posts, you guys understand, create a diagram and post the diagram.

I will be doing that fuel pump test shortly and post the results as well.

So, I have been studying the WUR and from a newbies perspective this is what I understand it's function to be:

The WUR allows or constricts fuel flow out of the Fuel Distributor. When the WUR constricts fuel flow out of the FD it doesn't allow much fuel to flow from the FD to the WUR - it does this when the engine is cold so the engine can run rich. As and when the engine gets warm/hot, the WUR gradually opens its valve allowing more fuel to flow out of the FD, thereby reducing pressure in the FD and reducing fuel flow to the injectors. Is that close?

I also ran across an an interesting non PP post about rebuilding WURs:
http://www.jtresto.com/e21/WURServicing.pdf

Timmy2's Airbox
 

Sorry this has nothing to do with WUR, but I noticed Timmy2's airbox is stainless. I have this too on my 74 2.7 Targa. Was this stock? I don't get out much, but I haven't seen too many of them.

Thanks

Not stock. Couple different aftermarket sources for them over the years.

Fixed it for you.

It's counter intuitive. The wur controls pressure. The more pressure, the less fuel to the injectors and vice-versa.

Here is the diagram for the fuel system in question

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358724174.jpg



When taking the fuel pressure at the fuel pump, should an adapter be connected to the pump by disconnecting what appears to be a cap on the output side of the fuel pump? See picture below


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358723167.jpg


If a difference existed between the reading at the fuel pump and the intake side of the accumlator would that be a fuel line issue?

Your basic understanding of the WUR operation......
 

Gary,

It is easy to mis-interpret how the WUR operates and I fell into that category too when I first started learning the principles behind CIS. So you are not alone.

1). The WUR regulates the flow of fuel from the FD to WUR as the control fuel pressure. The primary valve is responsible for the system fuel pressure and thus control the bulk of fuel not needed (excess).
2). As the engine warms up, the diaphragm inside the WUR restricts the flow of the control fuel pressure thus making the pressure reading at the gauge higher. This increase in control fuel pressure pushes down the FD plunger down thus resulting into a leaner mixture.

Remember one thing, we all learn from each other. Your mistakes make some people go back and review their CIS knowledge. Your troubles could easily be corrected or fixed if you keep an open mind and listen to to some people. I said some, because you have to be selective whose suggestion you follow. These are the guys you could rely on, Larry, Bob K., Ty, and many more who are active in this forum. Keep us posted.

Tony

Broader view.....
 

Gary,

The more I read your post, the more I get confused. Your FD should have three (3) outlet fittings and you got only two (2) in the diagram. Contact schumicat, he recently spent a good deal of time working on his fuel lines. And he found the culprit.

And looking at your diagram, I'm not sure you get the correct orientation of the FV (frequency valve)..........schumicat would be the guy to contact too. He might be able to forward some pictures I sent to him. I'm away from my home traveling and have no access to my notes.

Please get me some pictures FP area showing the inlet and outlet fuel lines.......Thanks.

Tony

That's not a frequency valve in his pictures. That's an enrichment injector that people installed back in the 80's on federalized cars. OP needs to locate a working ROW CIS system and the hard fuel lines to the filter and accumulator.

The plug going to what looks like the frequency valve before the WUR goes to a box somewhere that is tripped by the throttle switch during WOT. I removed a few of these things now and they are nothing but bad ju-ju.

You find these on a lot of Benz's from the 80's as well. Best to ditch this stuff and get a working ROW CIS setup for an 82-83.

After looking at your diagram I'm thinking there may be a seperate pressure regulator installed somewhere on the car. It really looks like your WUR has been bypassed.
Is there a rotary knob in the engine compartment, in the console, on the dash or between the seats that you have no idea what it does?
The hose beside your electrical connection should be a vacuum line. Follow it to the throttle body.(your drawing shows 2 electrical connections to the wur)
How long have you had this car?

Take a look at this site, read everything so you understand it, and then see if you can describe the differences from the stock configuration.
http://jimsbasementworkshop.com/CIS/CIShome.html

LOL, looks like Scott R knows what it is. :)

Gary, back in October tony helped me sort out my WUR issue. I have an 83SC RoW which I purchased in august. I initially had the same issue as you. If you search my name you will find my initial post and pictures. It turned out that I had a WUR off of a Mercedes along with the valve you are describing, the banjo bolt and the extra line. Tony sold me the correct WUR for my car along with the thermo time valve that was missing. Take a look at my post and see what you think. Tony you out there? Remember my situation? Warren

+1 This is exactly how you sort this out.

Wow guys!!!

What a depth of knowledge you guys have!

Thanks for the input, I am jumping on this research.

I bought the car in Germany in 1985 and had it "federalized", immediately thereafter, in CA as Scott R refers to it.

The car has always been a bit problematic, but definitely fun, as it related to performance and I perceived injection issues seemed to be the culprit but I never had the time to follow up. Now I do and am.

It's sitting in a partially covered carport, immediately adjacent to my car-occupied two car garage, outside temp about 32 now and earlier. Since it ran before, I thought I would get it running with its current, as is being said incorrect configuration, so I could move it into the garage and work on it without freezing myself to death.

Referring to my earlier post about the pressure test at the fuel pump, can I remove that cap and run the pressure test from there? Or may I run the test on the input side of the Accumulator?

txs again

Sorry your right, I missed the last three numbers they were so small and dirty!

When I wiped it a bit more the other stamped numbers came out!!

Here is a photo of the one on my 83sc!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358793044.jpg

Here is a photo of a properly installed WUR!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358793364.jpg

Gary,
Too bad you're 75 miles away in this crappy ice fog weather we're having.
I have a number of lines from a spare cis that would help get you back to a normal configuration.
I also have a gas analyzer for tuning once the fuel pressures are set up correctly.

Probably better to test the pump output in volume and pressure at the accumulator. Tony mentioned the expected volume of fuel to expect for a given time of the pump running in a recent post he made in another thread you had.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/729094-fuel-pump-diagnosis.html