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Use Anti-Sieze

Hello,

After re-doing my front wheel bearings, I'm getting set to put everything back together (rebuilt calipers, new rotors, etc.).

Should I use anti-seize on the rotor nuts/bolts that hold it to the hub and/or the two caliper bolts?

When I removed them, it looked like there was something on the bolts (I presume to keep them from rusting into a metal lump that can't be undone).

Thanks.

Lawrence


Last edited by Swoboda; 01-31-2013 at 10:53 AM..
Old 01-31-2013, 10:07 AM
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I do...on the wheel lugs also...then torque properly..
Old 01-31-2013, 10:51 AM
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I never do, and mine have been fine.

I am not saying I am right, just offering another opinion.
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Christopher Mahalick
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:22 AM
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use it

I use it "carefully" on most everything that gets worked on periodically. Can't think off the top where I wouldn't use it if its outside exposed to water. Careful around the brakes.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:25 AM
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I would clean them with a wire brush and use a light thread locking compound.
Old 01-31-2013, 11:54 AM
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I use anti-seize on every fastener that has a chance of galling or rusting in place.
Old 01-31-2013, 01:45 PM
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I might be wrong, but I do this too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by porschenut View Post
I use anti-seize on every fastener that has a chance of galling or rusting in place.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:11 PM
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The Wurth copper based anti-seize available from Pelican is superb - wouldn't be without it on any job.
Old 01-31-2013, 08:43 PM
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Well, anti-seize shouldn't be used unless it is taken into account when tightening fasteners. If anti-seize is used, fasteners stretch more for a given torque.

Bolt Torque when using Anti-seize

Scott
Old 01-31-2013, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnln View Post
I might be wrong, but I do this too.
You are not wrong at all. I think we each do things our own way. I do wire brush my bolts so they are nice and clean.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:32 AM
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the bolt and the strut are completely different metals with no chance of galling

I dont use anitseize on these

clean them - and that's it
there is one product I put on most bolts that I do not use "anything" on - I put Krytox on them...and I mean a tiny damn amount - this stuff impregnates the steel and makes them work much better - I started using krytox about 15 years ago and have found it to be the best grease ever


do some reading, you'll be quite impressed with the numbers
also an amazing o'ring/seal lubricator

Krytox® Lubricants - By DuPont
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:54 AM
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If it rust, yeah do that. If it's very dirty with grease/oil/dirt, I put a bunch into a box, pour some paint thiner and shake them up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCM911 View Post
I do wire brush my bolts so they are nice and clean.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:50 AM
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Ed, what do you use to clean up Krytox? I read that stuff is pretty nasty and you really should wear gloves and a respirator, no?
Old 02-01-2013, 12:49 PM
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rusnak,

There are food grades of Krytox......

The problem with Krytox is when it gets over 554 degF. Then you can have issues. In a minority of people it can cause skin irritation. But so can any other synthetic or petroleum-based grease.

Read the MSDS of any grease you might use for CV joints and I am pretty sure you will get the idea you should not get it on your hands, in your eyes, or ingest it if you can avoid it.

Scott
Old 02-01-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivangene View Post

completely different metals with no chance of galling
I'm not sure what this means. Galling is caused by friction between the metal surfaces - say if they are rough or have 'bumps'.
Old 02-01-2013, 01:40 PM
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Krytox is a DuPont product line. Like Scott said, you have to be specific about which Krytox you're talking about. Not trying to be a dink, saying, "hey man you need to say it's Krytox GPL-215!" Just saying that nowadays it seems a lot of people have caught on to the Krytox name and think it's just one product like Curil-T, for instance.
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:44 PM
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Ah, got it.

I think we can assume that I was not thinking of putting Krytox FG on the Porsche? Or, as spread on my toast.....
Old 02-01-2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Windsor View Post
I'm not sure what this means. Galling is caused by friction between the metal surfaces - say if they are rough or have 'bumps'.
What's the correct term for when a nut and a bolt of different materials cause a chemical reaction that results in them cold welding themselves together? I think that's what he meant.
Old 02-01-2013, 01:51 PM
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Sure I know what you're saying. I guess I should have said that some Krytox greases that we'd consider suitable for our purposes are perfectly safe. Others are very dangerous.

Anybody need some aerospace grade Krytox 240? Only costs $2K for a typical sized grease gun cartridge..........

http://www.mcmaster.com/#krytox-grease/=laljos
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Last edited by KTL; 02-01-2013 at 01:57 PM.. Reason: added mcmaster link
Old 02-01-2013, 01:57 PM
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Jeezus Kee-rist!!!

I came across (sorry about the highjack) some orange tractor grease that pulls apart about a half foot before it lets go. I could not use any normal degreaser to clean it up. Now I did think "hey maybe I'll try that in my wheel bearings". I use some friction reducer with synthetic oil in the trailer bearings, and for anti-seize I use plain old Permatex copper grease. Works fine so far. I have not tried, nor do I know the application difference between the "silver" and the "copper" anti-seize. Maybe someone can address that?

Old 02-01-2013, 02:03 PM
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