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Teflon tape oil fittings?

I'm replacing my cam chain oil lines and don't want leaks. Should I Teflon tape the fittings?

Old 02-14-2013, 10:04 AM
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Done properly, there should be no need. But if you decide to do so, make certain you use the special tape for fuel/oil/natural gas, etc. That tape is typically yellow in color.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:20 AM
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I wouldn't use teflon tape., but I often smear a little Curil-T on threads and crush washers. It's an excellent product and really does help seal your motor. Our host sells it.

However, never forget the old adage "if there is oil in it, there is oil on it".



Here's a product sheet.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:22 AM
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Use it by all means, but make sure no loose bits can get dislodged an get into your oil system. No need for the yellow gas specific tape. I used to manufacture the stuff and trust all that makes it different to the regular white tape is that it is certified to have an oil content below a certain threshold, which is in any case irrelevant to your application.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:36 AM
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here is a good rule of thumb (s) if the threads are the sealing device, (like pipe thread fittings) tape or compound is ok, if the threads are the mechanical clamping force (like in AN, flare, or compression fittings, O-ring/gasket) than no sealing compound is needed.
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Last edited by James Brown; 02-14-2013 at 10:39 AM..
Old 02-14-2013, 10:36 AM
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The seal is not at the threads, it is at the nipple. No sealant is required, however I use a little thread sealer (not tape, that is for home plumbing) on the threads to ensure any weeping is stopped plus it makes it easier to disassemble if required.
Old 02-14-2013, 10:37 AM
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Never use teflon tape or silicone rubber sealants; pieces of tape or little beads of rubber can break free and clog critical oil passageways. I also use a light coating of Curil-T when required. Jim
Old 02-14-2013, 10:38 AM
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No, NO, NO!!!
Do not use teflon tape. It only increases the chance of a sealing issue (or much worse). If it doesn't seal correctly when torqued anywhere near correctly then you have an issue the requires parts replacement.
It always amazes me when I see AN fittings with taped threads. If the fluid reached that far then the connection has already failed. It basically is an overt sign that someone has worked on it that doesn't know what they are doing.


James has got it exactly right:
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Brown View Post
here is a good rule of thumb (s) if the threads are the sealing device, (like pipe thread fittings) tape or compound is ok, if the threads are the mechanical clamping force (like in AN, flare, or compression fittings, O-ring/gasket) than no sealing compound is needed.
Get a copy of Carroll Smith's "Prepare To Win" and read the section on plumbing. It starts with a bit about plumbing being the single most common cause of racecar retirements as being "plumbing failures". His books are a goldmine. In fact get all his books and read them from cover to cover. They are great reads.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:00 AM
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I used teflon tape carefully at the thermostat in the wheel well where the steel fittings attach to the aluminum thermostat (dissimilar metals=corrosion). I'm hoping that next time I have to remove the lines that it won't be with a dremel tool!
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:33 AM
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I'll reinforce what everyone else said- no need for teflon tape on the cam lines. The banjo end seals just fine with barely any torque applied. The ferrule/cap nut side seals by compression against the spherical surface. No need for any kind of sealant in or around the connections. Hook 'em up dry and you'll be fine.

Where teflon tape really shines (NOT) is on fuel system kludges. The tape turns to goop and makes a mess. The tape has no business being used on a car. Actual teflon hoses are fuel resistant. But the "teflon" tape is not.

The Curil-T stuff is becoming a popular item in the Porsche 911 community. Putting it on the crank seals as shown in that picture is like begging for the seal to come back out. The rubber seal is ribbed on the surface to help it "bite" into the bore and stay in place. The Curil T does not harden and acts as a "lubricant" on the rubber seal surface, somewhat defeating the purpose of the ribs. That said, some lubricant is often helpful to get them installed cleanly. Water or some spit (anything that will dry up eventually, but not lubricate) works best IMO to let the seal stay put! A swab of oil around the seal lips is always a good idea to let the lips slide along as you press the seal into place.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockryno View Post
I'll stay away from the tape. Thanks guys
Yep....Keep it for leaks in your bathroom.
No place for it in a car.

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Old 02-14-2013, 12:38 PM
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