Rear Hub Question

[jpearson]

I am trying to remove the rear hub on my 75 911. Caliper is off, Disc is off, E-brake disconnected, pin and center nut removed, and axle removed.
I tried the two pry bar method and a slide hammer with a hub attachment. Both ways it moves about half an inch then won't budge at all. I actually cracked the hub attachment for my slide hammer in half pulling on it.

Am I missing something?

I didn't loosen any of the bolt on the bearing plate behind the hub (second pic), do I need to?

Thanks for the help.

[gregwils]

No, the hub stem is just round and straight - see below I can be a dog fight sometimes. The inner race of the bearing may still be attached to the hub. Usually, the first inch or so is the hardest - keep banging on it with a slide hammer.

[Devil Dog Mosport]

You can and should try a puller mounted on the hub.. 5lb'er should work.. mount to lugs and hammer out.. If not, take off the half axle and use a drift or pin from the inside out.. Use some PB blaster too,,,let it sit for a while...

[jpearson]

Thanks - just needed some reassurance.

[911Freak]

I had a hell of a time doing his on my SC. I posted a thread on the saga, lots of helpful pics and links.
Basically I had to tape two 10lb weights onto the slide hammer and pound after using mapp gas heat around the hubs. The heat was the key factor in all of this. Even propane heat works.
Search my user name for that thread.
Good luck and pound away with that slide hammer!

[MikeD]

Mine resisted like yours until I took the four hub retainer plate bolts out. Then one whack with the slide hammer and out it came. My theory is that the retainer keeps the bearing together just enough that the inner race (which is stuck to the stub axle) can't pull out of the seal. All your energy is going in to making the inner race bounce off the seal.

Once out I used a dremel to cut the inner race and a cold chisel to spread it.

[Scott R]

I documented mine last week, it was a complete nightmare. No puller I could source would tackle the job. I finally took the entire arm to my p-car mech to get his machinist to get them out. Suckers were rusted into place and the bearing came out partly attached to the spindle.

Then of course you could be like Craig_d where the thing nearly just falls out on it's own.

[James Brown]

you will destroy the rear bearing in the process, that is normal

[zippy_gg]

I used the pry bar method and it worked great on one side and not on the other. The difficult side took 2 people with a pry bar each and that was the ticket.
If you were trying this on your own you may want to get an extra pair of hands to help.
One hub came with a half bearing stuck on it, and the other cam out clean with the whole bearing still in the trailing arm.
So as you can see, your mileage will vary...

[jpearson]

Finally got it - what ended up working for me was: Loosening the bearing retainer plate bolts and then putting the pry bar ends on top of the bolts. That gave me just a little extra leverage and it doesn't look like I destroyed anything.

[john walker's workshop]

top of the bolts is the way. the other way is a BIG slide hammer. a 10 pounder at least.

[47silver]

used jw's method. 2 prybars on the bolts.
be careful as the hub and tools can come crashing down.
i removed all of the brake components and then used some heat.
took some energy but not to difficult.