Exhaust Stud - ARGH !!!

[Devil Dog Mosport]

It was bound to happen.. Of course on the "last" stud.. broke off even with the head..

Okay, tried everything thus far.. heat, drill, used easy out.. that broke off in the stud.. now can't find enough stud to get a decent drill to bite into.. Used several drills , started to see aluminum chips, so stopped that..

Options:

• Can one drill larger then the stud and sleeve?
  • Can the Aluminum be tapped a larger size and use larger stud?
  • I hate to...but can it be left alone, use one stud, and run the risk of blowing an exhaust gasket?
  • Should I break down and take it to a shop, with a proper drill setup to drill upside down and admit defeat?

[DRACO A5OG]

Don't give up brother!

Post a pic so we can see what is happening.

[slow&rusty]

Post a picture or two so we can see what you are working with. We have been there at some time or another and several options exist if you want to pull the broken stud out. What ever the case do not ignore it and have one stud support that exhaust port.
Regards - Yasin

[zippy_gg]

I feel your pain... I just broke 2 studs flush with the head this morning.

[Norm Faustino]

Try to use a thin spike punch to catch an edge on the easy-out and try to drive it clockwise to make it let go. If that won't work get a pencil grinder or a dremel with a 1/8" ball file and grind out the easy-out. then just drill out the stud in steps. If you go into the aluminium, no worries. Heli-coil it!

[JJ 911SC]

Rich/Gilles

BTDT... Time-Serts to the rescue

That was my first tap ever. Just did my second one at the end of the cam shaft in situ and my third one is next week to fix a PO transmission bolt screw up

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

Rich/Gilles

BTDT... Time-Serts to the rescue

That was my first tap ever. Just did my second one at the end of the cam shaft in situ and my third one is next week to fix a PO transmission bolt screw up

Thanks for the link JJ. I have a whole tool kit if I need to install a time-cert, but I am trying not to and instead see if I can get the broken piece out.

[Elombard]

I did the same thing a month or two ago, I posted my results if you want to search.

I used a dremel with a special hardened bits to grind the easy out carefully - took a few hours with a couple different types of bits. then I drove the easy out up carefully with a punch up into the hole/gap above the stud (on mine the studs did not seat all the way - there was a gap above them in the head) - ( I am assuming you have drilled the hole in the stud all the way through it). Then drill the stud with larger bits until the easy out piece falls out. Re tap the hole and install new stud...its a lot of work on your back.

Note: you dont have to get the last thin bit of the stud out, using a tap and going 1 turn in 1 turn out, clean and repeat - be patient will clean out the last piece of the stud.

[Porchdog]

What bits are you using with your dremel? Any suggestions for drill bits?

The neighbor kid broke an exhaust stud on his Super Beetle and I've been helping him try to get it out. There's about 3/16" still exposed but I can't get a good grip on it with vice grips.

I've heated it with the torch and used Kroil. I've tried drilling it but it's hard as chinese arithmetic - titatium and cobalt bits won't bite. abrasive bits are very slow going.

In the next week or two I'll be starting the backdate on my SC, so this has my attention.

[sperberj]

Hi All;

I once got a broken easy out out bu taking a dremel with a metal cutting disk on it and first getting it flush. I then cut a slot into it kind of like a screw. Then I used an impact driver on reverse. It actually cam out easily as the easy out thread slop is steep. Let me know if this works.

[Elombard]

Porchdog do a search here for 'drill bushings'. If there is still some stud sticking out they are the shizzle. Not sure why the studs are so hard? mine were mild steel and easy to drill.

[theiceman]

get a stromski kit.

[911 tweaks]

another option is to use the broken stud & grind down 1 of the ends to 1/2 of the dia of the stud hole & weld the two together...
the heat from welding will help loosen the stuck stud remaining in the head so you can back it out...
have any pics...?? good luck here... BTDT... :-)

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by theiceman

get a stromski kit.

Yeah... $268 plus tax and shipping for something I'll use only once...

[MConn]

Left handed drill bit ? Grainger.com sells them.

Mike

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by MConn

Left handed drill bit ? Grainger.com sells them.

Mike

Thanks for the tip. I have been trying all afternoon to source them locally to no avail... Also because the stud is made or such hard metal I am looking for carbide tungsten bit for both my drill and my Dremel.

[john walker's workshop]

are you guys using oxy/acetylene heat, or just cranking them off cold?

[James Brown]

you can drill out the broken stud starting with a small drill and work up to the correct size. new drill bits only. critical part is the exact center punch in the broken stud. grind the stud flat will help.
broken studs

grind flat and center punch

drill out center


chase threads with a tap

new studs ready for SSI's

yes it can be done, on your back with a hand drill. the time-certs are always a option. than your time, measure twice, drill once.

[HarryD]

I was at Harbor Freight yesterday and saw they had left handed drills. While they may not last long, they may be good enough for the job.

Also, for the future I saw elsewhere where some suggested you just bust the nuts off with a chisel or splitter and get new ones as a way to prevent frustration.

[rbogh901]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

are you guys using oxy/acetylene heat, or just cranking them off cold?

Guys, this is a clue. The easiest solution to removing a broken stud is to not break it. I wouldn't mind knowing more about the best way to heat them.