If you are working with an "open" differential, one wheel needs to held stationary as the other wheel is rotated to get the diff to spin one revolution with the rotated wheel.

Thanks. Now I am kind of frustrated. I wouldn't have had to rip all of this open. I was only turning one wheel during the test, which now makes sense why I was only getting 4 evenly spaced beeps per wheel rotation.

So with the cruise control disconnected and nothing wrong with the differential mag ring, I am banking that something is wrong with the speedometer.

I can't tell from your photo if you did this, but you should not rest the diff on the carrier bearing to avoid damaging it with the weight of the diff; rest it on one of the flanges. you definitely want one flange bolt installed at all times or the diff gears can go out of alignment in a way that requires complete disassembly of the gears to get them back aligned correctly (I know that from experience....).

the point about the wheel rotation makes perfect sense. the diff rotates totally differently when one vs. both wheels are turning (the whole unit -- including magnet ring -- only rotates as a unit with both wheels turning the same speed; otherwise the whole unit doesn't rotate, only the gears).

I just had it for a minute to take a picture. I have it resting with the axles in place. As soon as I get home, I will insert the bolts to hold everything together. I just have to clean up the axles one at a time, pick up my seals tomorrow and go back together with the differential in the housing. I wish someone would have elaborated with me that when just turning one wheel the differential would only go half per full turn. Would have saved me from ripping this apart. Oh well such is life, but on the bright side (I am able to address the CV Joints and new seals in the differential. I definitely think something was leaking by looking at those pictures with all the build up.

No I just have to address the speedo, because I just dropped a lot of money on it to be rebuilt and fixed. As you can see my frustration is continuing.

I take it that these are this is the seal I need for the axle output shaft through the differential.
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-113-183-40-M30

Just want to make sure before purchasing. Also how deep am I suppose to press these in?

Yep that is the right stub axle seal. You only need to press it in flush with the case/side cover surface.

But looking at it again, it's hard to tell if your dampness on the side cover is due to stub axle shaft seal or if it's due to grease weeping out of the CV joint. Did you have any gaskets on the stub axle or CV joint when it came apart? These gaskets

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 923-332-297-00-M30

are used to keep the grease in. They are arguably effective and can contribute to bolts coming loose- due to gradual compression of the gasket. Plus they're quite the PITA to install cleanly.

That said, some sort of sealing method is good to keep the grease in as it ages & separates. Typically the oils in the grease separate out and that's what weeps. . The secondary purpose of the gasket is to keep lubricant off the mating surface between the CV joint and stub axle flange. The key is to keep those surfaces as clean/dry as possible during assembly (yeah right, in my dreams.....) so they maintain good clamping force/friction between the two surfaces.

Kevin, thanks.

Yeah there were gaskets in-between the cv to flange mating surfaces. I know there was most likely CV oil/grease weeping out, but on the differential side of the stub axle there was a lot of build up as there may have been some oil weeping out through those seals at a slow rate. Regardless, those seals are all pretty old, so a refresh is a good thing.

I will keep you all posted on everything going back together and what I find out about the speedo. I dropped it off yesterday to be rechecked for accuracy and the odometer mistake they made fixed.

I have determined that I have an electrical issue with the speedometer. I disconnected/removed the cruise control. I am going to trace wires this week to make sure there are no shorts anyways. I will keep everyone posted on my progress. My goal is to have the car ready for the Hershey Swap Meet on April 20th.

Advanced Auto a local car parts shop has pre-weighed 85 gram moly cv joint grease packets for my car. That is what came up recommended for each joint of the SC. Is this correct?

Sounds about right. When you buy a Lobro boot kit from Pelican, the kit includes a medium sized tube (kinda like medium sized tube of toothpaste) of GKN extreme pressure grease.

Knowing that, i'd buy a grease gun size tube of good synthetic grease like Mobil 1, Lucas tacky red, Valvoline SynPower. Fill your CVs with an amount of good grease approximately the same as the size of the packet you saw.

The pre-weighed packets at Advanced Auto are most likely an economy no-name brand grease. Might as well spend a few extra bucks and use a high quality grease.

Well, got all the hardware, gaskets and seals. Getting ready to start cleaning everything up and putting it back together tomorrow.

Kevin,

This is what Peter Zimmerman had on his 915 rebuild wiki:

"…and I use a bearing race driver and hammer to install it. Go slow with this, and when you strike the seal be aware that you can damage it. A light touch is a good thing. Also, the side cover seal is installed in a somewhat recessed position, but the opposite seal, in the housing, is installed flush with the housing."

Mentions the cover plate seal is slightly recessed. Is this an absolute or can I just make them both flush?

I would trust Pete's recommendation on the seal depth. I don't think flush is bad, as i've seen lots of side covers with them flush. Must be a reason why the installed depth is a little bit deeper on the cover.

Okay, thanks

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Nice job. Get yourself a few cans of carb cleaner to clear away most of that gear oil and CV grease + road debris mess. Doing so will let you discover new leaks more easily if one should occur.

With fresh CV grease, new drive flange seals, and a new side cover O-ring, you should have basically a leak free trans at the final drive housing. The only other places that case section can leak from are the drain plug (not likely), the breather fitting on top (only when overfilled) or the mainshaft seal which is usually masked by the clutch spinning and only revealed when a serious leak.

The main shift rod/fork cover plate on the intermediate case is often a leaky sucker but yours looks pretty good. Even if it's leaking a little bit and you wanted to fix it, it's an easy fix with some new nylock nuts and sealant. The cover plate technically uses a paper gasket but sealant is a good alternative to ensure a better long term seal.

Kevin,

Thanks. Yeah looking at what I cleaned and didn't clean is like night and day. I will have to just get under there and spend a few hours cleaning.

Need some help.

Anyone close by have a used outer for the CV joint that is in decent shape.
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http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps649e301d.jpg

Everything else is in great shape. The inner, the balls and all the other joints. I just need to source the out. I am trying to stay on budget for this, as I will be buying all new cv joints in the next few years.

I am kinda running low on time. I would like to be back down on the wheels on saturday.

Kevin,

those torque spacers are also too small from VW for the M8 Bolt. See the pictures below.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...psae58ab86.jpg

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...psde2d15f6.jpg

Since I am running out of time and don't feel like sourcing parts and pay an arm and leg to over night them, I am just going to ax the torque spacers and have my bolts cut down 3mm for clearance issues.