Been doing it for several years now with all of my Porsche cars and you are correct.

I left a few voicemails on the shop email asking to speak with the manager. He isn't in till monday of course. I walked away last night after giving up on various methods, warmed up a bottle of sake and just relaxed.

I'll drive my 914 this week. The weather is nice for targa top weather, and that car doesn't get enough attention as it is.

Sometimes I just need to step away and calm down.

If for some reason they tell me to take a hike, there is a lot of great suggestions in this thread, and one way or another it'll get fixed. So it is what it is. Thank you to this community, you're all awesome :)

was this shop in Redmond? or Bend?

you will want to discuss compensation for your time h the manager

also show him the price of a new tank and the shipping costs

I'm not sure how I feel at this point posting up which shop it was until I get a chance to speak with the manager and get resolution. I want to give them the chance to make it right first. They have generally treated me well and I have gone there on a regular basis for oil and parts.. so I'm really upset at this experience, but considering the owner has always been an upfront fellow and never done me wrong, I am really hoping he'll step up. If the are on pelican, they'll know my cars from my signature immediately and know who they are.

I'm unable to find a tank. I looked on pelicanparts, do you have a link? or part #?

for a tank I would start by checking at a wrecker ... p heaven down here is a good place to start ... but I am sure the others up in your area can steer you to some one up that way .... Check w J Brown or Mr Webb ...

stock photo from pelican parts® SSI install tech center.

Don't know if you can get a pipe wrench to stay on. Not a lot to get a hold of.
I would take a chisel to it.
Hit it straight on (out towards the end) to get a groove started then angle it (use a dull chisel so it doesn't cut though) and i'll bet it will loosen.

Have you tried heating the area around the plug with a propane torch? Sears has some wrenches that will grab a rounded head, but it doesn't look like you've got much area there.
You might have to end up drilling it out with a left hand drill, make sure and clean your tank out well so no shavings are there.
Any excess force will distort the tank.

Have you tried heating the area around the plug with a propane torch? Sears has some wrenches that will grab a rounded head, but it doesn't look like you've got much area there.
You might have to end up drilling it out with a left hand drill, make sure and clean your tank out well so no shavings are there.
Any excess force will distort the tank.

James...Your just being humble - Your shop and engine is nicer yet.


[By the way... I get a smile (like) your name. I lived in White Rock for my whole life and of course knew that ' Jimmy' was from Seattle (has a bronze statue) but I never knew that 'James' was alive and well and living in Bellingham :cool: ]

James Brown - I feel good *LeatherLovely.com - YouTube oh yeah, "I feel good!"

Take it back to the shop and explain to them that you expected your car to be serviceable after they perform work on your car. I am sure they charged you P car rates to just have someone run the plug home lazily with a big impact wrench. You will be surprised at what you might get if you just ask. Best of luck.

How about grinding the remains of the drain plug flat with a dremel tool. Then center punch the remains and progressively drill holes with ever larger drills until you are almost touching the ineer side of the thread. That should weaken the plug enough that you are able to successfully use an extractor bit again.

Looking at this picture makes me wonder if you ground the sides of the plug down into a really large hex and found a.. what? 22mm, 24mm, etc. socket to fit, hit it with an impact, and you'll be good to go.

And probably covered with oil.

I say vice grips or the pipe wrench should be tried before escalating this any further.
Things like this always reminds me to undo the fill plug on the transmission or anything else before loosening a drain plug.

It's 2013. It will be worse in 2023.

Plan accordingly and join the DIY (plus forum guidance) revolution.

BTW.....used tanks are cheap. Either use the vise grips or pull the tank, cut the bung off and reweld.......or discuss with the shop on the over torque.

Anyone here have a used tank? I seriously would buy it right about now and say screw it with dealing with the shop, if indeed it is reasonably priced.

Agreed on the DIY comment as well. I usually do everything myself, and usually only buy parts from the local shop. When needed. Primarily pelican is my source, or IEP. But this is the ONE TIME i let someone else work on my 911 and look what happens lol.

Good point on it being worse in 2023. I sort of feel like there's few places who would take as much pride in their work as I would take in my own car. I'll wait to see what happens tomorrow with the shop owner, if they say they'll fix it and for free then great, I'll get it in paper and let them do it. If not, well, I'll be looking for another tank because I'm not going to mess with it anymore if I don't have to.

On a positive note... my valves were all in spec, and, as well, no broken head studs. My issue with the rough idle was actually what appears to be an ignition issue and the coil is no longer within tolerance, as well as the rotor looking gnarly. So that explains the bad idle.

eBay and putting a Want to Buy ad in the classifieds. I've sold bare tanks from 50-100 bucks plus shipping.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/692255-oil-tank-sc.html

Don't know the guy beyond he's a parts seller only.....

Remove replace for a fast fix. Repair the original and sell it. A radiator shop will do the fix.

BTW, This would piss me off seriously.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365389249.jpg

at this point id weld a big nut on it around the outside too not just inside. and loosten it while its still hot.

If the shop will not give you satisfaction, you should be able to grip what is left which some vice grips and turn it out (as noted above, grip the wide flange, not the welded mess). Use a deadblow hammer to strike the vice grip to break it free.

Be prepared forhte flood that will ensue once you move the plug.

FWIW,

There is a lot of truth in post 22 of this thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/649537-minimum-toolkit-carry.html#post6488066