CV Boot replacement rebuild part 1

[Waynec]

So, just made my first post with the '87 911 I bought. Now I want to give a little back to the site. The first time I jacked up my car to check out the brakes, I saw I had a tear on the right side inner CV boot. That's not good, don't want to get a bunch of crud in there and ruin the CV joint. I researched info on the site and figured out how to fix it. The info I found was pretty good but for a novice, I thought there could be better information. Below is my replacement of the inner CV boot and repacking of the inner CV joint. I hope this helps someone else out.
1987 Porsche 911 Cabriolet Rear CV Boot Removal, Inner CV Joint Rebuild

Tools for the job
• Ύ” Breaker bar
• Long steel pipe for additional breaker bar leverage (4ft)
• Ύ” to ½” reducer
• ½”, 32mm socket for wheel hub removal. Hub is torqued to 334ft-lb
• Hex wrench for hex bolts removal of inner CV Joint. 8mm hex drive. Hex bolts are torqued to 63ft-lb.
• Long extensions to allow to get to inner CV joint hex bolts
• Snap ring removal tool
• Pelican Parts CV joint repair kit. GKN Loebro kit 000-043-301-08-M60. $10.
• Tool for CV boot clamps. Can get this at Autozone.
• Torque wrench
• Shock bolt – 90ftlb
• Lug nuts – 96ftlb
•
• Tools 1
•



• With car on ground, loosen hub nut, loosen lug nuts
• Jack up car on both sides and use jack stands to support car. Chock front tires so the car doesn’t go anywhere.
•

• Remove lug nuts and wheel. Got the red rubber piece for the jack stands at Harbor Freight for like $4.
• Remove hub nut (32mm socket)
• Remove bottom bolt of shock absorber. This allows shock to be swung out of the way and allow for half shaft removal. You will need to put a jack under the A-arm to support the weight of the hub so it doesn’t fall down when removing the shock bolt. It is advisable to mark the location of the shock where it is bolted in so it goes back in the right place. When I did this, I left the jack in the same spot so the A-arm did not move.
•

• Remove hex nuts from inner axle. You will want to support the shaft so it does not fall.
• After removal of the hex nuts and hub bolt, the half shaft will fall down away from the transmission and then can be pulled out of the wheel hub.
•

••
• Transmission where inner CV joint was attached. 6 hex bolts. 10mm bolts, 8mm hex drive.

• Axle half shaft removed and in vice.
• Inner CV boot has been cut off. It was broken.
•
• Use screwdrive and hammer to gently tap off outer cover of CV Joint. Tapping on alternate sides will allow it to be removed showing the CV joint. Bearing just slid off. No need to press it off.
•
• Inner CV joint. Lots of grease
• There is a snap ring around the shaft. You will need snap ring pliers to pull the snap ring off. The CV joint will then slide off the shaft. Make note of the direction of all the pieces. The inner piece is directional and can only be put back on the shaft in one direction while allowing the snap ring to be put back
•
• Snap ring pliers
•The rest of the post is in "CV Boot replacement rebuild part 2"

[Waynec]

CV Boot replacement and rebuild part 2

• With CV joint off the shaft you can manipulate the pieces inside to disassemble the CV joint. I cleaned it out really well with Simple Green and made sure no residue are particles were still in the CV joint.
•

• Ball bearings from the CV joint. It’s all ball bearings these days.

• Outer ring of CV joint. There is minimal wear in this where the ball bearings contacted it. If there was a lot of wear or gouging, I would have gone ahead an ordered a new half shaft and replaced the whole thing. Luckily, I could get away with the rebuild kit for $10 vs. $300 for a new shaft.
• Inner side if inner ring. This side goes to the inside (transmission) end of the shaft. The axle protrudes through this side and the snap ring is applied on this side. This side of the inner ring is flat.
• Outer side of inner ring. This side goes toward the shaft side of the axle. This ring has a portrusion on it.
• Cleaned all of the bolts off with Simple Green
•

• Inside cap for CV joint. This is what I took off the CV joint using a hammer and screwdriver. There is a new one in the CV rebuild kit so no need to clean or be too careful with it.
• Axle. This is the end of the axle that the inner CV joint was removed from. It cleans up really well with Simple Green, some rags and a plastic bristle brush.
•
• This is the outer CV joint and boot. The boot was not broken so I did not mess with it. Just cleaned it up a little. The threaded area goes through the wheel hub. This is where the wheel hub nut goes.
• New CV boot kit from Pelican. GKN Loebro kit 000-043-301-08-M60. $10. Includes new boot, cover for CV joint, Clamps, new snap ring, 160g grease. I read on another post that you need about 100g of grease to repack the CV joint.
•
• Put small clamp on the shaft, slid the boot over the shaft, bigger clamp is not pictured but it comes apart so it can be put on after the boot has been fitted up over the inner cover for the CV joint. Just have to work the boot up by twisting and pushing.
•
• CV joint reassembled. Notice the inner ring position. The lip on the inner ring is on the inside of the shaft not the outside. The new snap ring from the kit has been installed. This takes a bit of coordination to get pieces back in.
•
• CV clamp tool. $7 at Autozone. I could have used zip ties and would have felt good about it but I had the clamps and the tool was cheap. I made the big clip pretty tight and the smaller one not as tight. I read that one possible reason for the boot breaking is the boot not being able to move much on the shaft. That said the small clamp was still pretty tight. We will see how it goes in use. Make sure that before you secure the large clamp that it does not interfere with the area the hex bolts will go. Otherwise you will need to remove it again. The clamping area of the CV clamp will interfere with placement of the hex bolts if it is not in the right spot. Try to center the clamping area between the bolt holes.
•
• Now the messy part. Putting the grease back in. I cut the corner off the grease bag and squirted it in all the openings of the joint and pushed it down as much as possible. I did this with the axle held in a vice facing up. The CV joint can then move up and down. When it is down the bearing kind of pops up. Then lifting the CV joint up the bearing kind of moves down. Moving it back and forth helps work the grease in. I did this several times then put my hand on top to help push the grease in. I estimated the amount of grease. One full bag (80g) then part of another bag. A total of at least 100g. I figured a little more would just squirt out the other side and be held in place by the boot.
•
• Gently put the new CV cap in place. I used the hex bolts to help guide the cap so it is in the right direction. Then I tapped it down (rather hard) using a hammer and a piece of wood so as to not damage the cap. After it was close, I took the bolts out again to make sure it was seated down all the way. When it is completely seated the grease is held in place by this on one side and the boot on the other side. I looked down in the bolt holes to make sure it was seated. Then I cleaned off the bolts again and the bolt holes. I did not want any grease on the bolts as I wanted as little chance as possible of the bolts loosening themselves when the axle was back in place.
• Put the axle back up in the car. Put the axle through the hub first then the inner side should slide up next to the gear box.
• Put hex bolts in and tighten them every other bolt so you get even distribution. Just like tightening lug nuts right? Torqing the hex bolts down is a challenge since the CV boot kind of gets in the way. Make sure the hex key gets a good bite in the hex bolt so you don’t mess up the bolt. I used a few socket extensions to get to the upper bolts and crawled underneath the car to tighten up the lower ones. The torque wrench really does not work well with multiple socket extensions. You can’t get the torque wrench to click. At this point I basically made the bolts as tight as I could. I estimated this at the 63ftlbs. I could estimate this because I did get the torque wrench to click on the bottom bolts where I did not need to use a bunch of extensions.
• When the bolts were on, I used a little paint on a brush to mark the bolts. This way I can come back and visually look at the bolts later after driving a while to make sure they have not loosened themselves.
• Put the lower shock absorber bolt back. 90ftlbs.
• Put the hub nut back on. 334ftlbs is a lot. If you weigh 150-lbs then 2ft away from where the bolt is along the breaker bar is where you will get 300ftlbs of torque. Distance from the rotating part (hub) x mass (your weight) = force (or in this case torque). I weigh 195-lbs so 1.7ft from the hub x 195-lbs = 331ftlbs of torque. I stood on the breaker bar and gave a little bounce to be sure. I doubt the hub is going anywhere.
• That’s it. Really not that difficult. $10 to replace boot and repack the CV joint. Much cheaper than a new axle.

[sacoffee]

Glad I found this, my next project unfortunately. Thanks for taking the time to document

[sacoffee]

is there a belleville washer on the hub nut?