E-brake Refresh Trouble

[gjmascoli]

New to me '76 911S. Doing the brake refresh and I am stuck with the e-brakes.

I have the e-brakes dismantled and replacing the shoes. Cables still attached to the handbrake lever on one end, and to the brake actuators on the other end. I have zero play in the Handbrake lever, like the cables are seized.

Removed the Handbrake Support Housing but there is not enough play in the cables to detach from the cable equalizer.

At the other end, how do you a) release the outer cable from the rear hub; or b) release the cable from the brake actuators.

You're supposed to simple remove the constellation nut, but turning the nut simply twists the cable. as it is now, if I had wanted to replace the cables, I'd have no way of doing it.

I'm sure this is very easy to do when don properly. So, how do I do it properly>

[Nickshu]

Unfortunately there is no spot to put opposing torque on the castle nut if its siezed. I used a vice grip on the end of the threads to loosen the nut enough to grt clearance then cut off the threaded end with a dremel. Its a pain!

[gjmascoli]

I just got the cables released from the cable equalizer at the lever end. I can try the vice-grip / nut-cracker approach at the brake end if it comes to that. What a PITA.

[RWebb]

take the seats out

[gjmascoli]

I took the passenger seat out to get better access. The cables are disconnected from the brake lever and I'm toying with the idea of cracking the constellation nuts off at the brake end.

Before I do that, isn't there some way to slacken the cables by adjusting the two nuts at the brake end?

The car has not been driven in 12-13 years. Is it possible the cables are rusted and fused to the guide tubes? The springs seem ok at the brakes and the actuators moce

[LJ851]

Originally Posted by gjmascoli

Before I do that, isn't there some way to slacken the cables by adjusting the two nuts at the brake end?

Yes, there is quite a bit of adjustment there. I would have started with this.

Originally Posted by gjmascoli

The car has not been driven in 12-13 years. Is it possible the cables are rusted and fused to the guide tubes? The springs seem ok at the brakes and the actuators moce

Probably not. If they seize anywhere it usually is the cable to the cable housing. The other areas have large clearances.

[gjmascoli]

Yeah, seized to the cable housing is what I meant to say.

I want to slacken the cables at the brake end but when I try to turn the outer nut (closest to the hub) the whole cable housing wants to turn. I'm thinking this whole mess is rusted together. Isn't that outer adjustment nut supposed to freely turn without turning the cable too?

[LJ851]

The end of the cable housing (on the brake end) is threaded with 2 nuts on it. The 2 nuts rest on a spacer tube (5 or 6 inches long) that floats in the trailing arm and ends at the E-brake actuator.

[gjmascoli]

Ah ha. Floats being the key word. Mine seem to be frozen to the spacer tube on both sides. Gotta see if I can free 'em up. Ideas?

[RWebb]

how do you feel about pulling the engine?

[gjmascoli]

RWebb
No fear about pulling the engine, but I'll probably have dumb questions along the way. That is down the road anyway.

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I went to brute force. Measure twice, cut once is how I do it.

I resorted to brute force and now that the cables are out of the housings they still can't be moved by the brake lever so I'm sure the cables are rusted far up into the rubber / plastic covers. Trash.

The E-brake hardware was completely frozen with rust. Will be replacing the cables with new.

[RWebb]

there is likely rust all over, so steel yourself...

[gjmascoli]

Yeah, I've braced myself. I know the drill from reading here and elsewhere over the past 25 years. This baby has hidden rust!

I wanted a project.........but I'm still smiling! Looking forward to the journey.

[gjmascoli]

Parts ordered from our host arrived today, so back to the e-brake.

In another instance of not wanting to use brute force until I am absolutely certain that is what it takes..........How the heck do you remove the old ebrake cables.

I have disconnected both ends of the cable and assume I yank them out to the rear of the car. But they won't budge. I assume they are only held in place with a rubber bushing where they enter the rear firewall.

Advice please?

[lsf911]

You are correct, just yank them out from the rear.

When I removed mine, the cables had a metal sleeve that slipped onto the entry point of the channel. I had just enough room to place a wrench on them and gave them a twist or two which broke them free. Then I was able to pull them out.

Good Luck.

[Nickshu]

+1 on the above. Mine were seized in the hole as well. I grabbed with a vice grip (on the end I would be disposing) and twisted to break free. Then they pulled right out. Be cautious and slow pulling out...the fuel lines in the tunnel are plastic.

[gjmascoli]

OK, thanks guys. On the replacement parts I see the metal sleeve you mention. I'll use your method. Hopefully I can get access to the sleeves. The tranny / engine support cross member seems to be blocking access --- I assume I'm not dropping the engine to replace these cables!

[lsf911]

No, you don't need to drop the engine. Access is tight but doable. I couldn't get my hand in there but a wrench fit. Once you break them free, they will pull right out.

[RWebb]

easier to do with engine out, yes?

be sure there are no metal fold-over tabs holding them in - my '73.5 has tabs holding something in - but I have luckily not had to pull those cables out (nor had to redo the headliner)...

[Nickshu]

Originally Posted by gjmascoli

OK, thanks guys. On the replacement parts I see the metal sleeve you mention. I'll use your method. Hopefully I can get access to the sleeves. The tranny / engine support cross member seems to be blocking access --- I assume I'm not dropping the engine to replace these cables!

I removed the transmission support. Put a jack under the transmission to support it first. Gives you tons of access and takes only a few minutes to remove. Good chance to replace transmission rubber mounts if you have not already....the are pretty cheap and made a huge improvement in shifting in my case. Do the engine mounts too....same parts ×4.