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-   -   I want real A/C on my 87 3.2 - please share your upgraded system installs & reviews (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/745690-i-want-real-c-my-87-3-2-please-share-your-upgraded-system-installs-reviews.html)

wrinkledpants 04-22-2013 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwest (Post 7401870)
you, of all people, do not understand....?

The amount of cooling a given volume of air receives, temperature delta, upon each pass through the evaporator is a reliable measure of he system's cooling capacity.

I believe it is you that does not understand. If you were to plot a theorized parcel of air passing multiple times through a evaporator, you'd end up with a chart that looks anything but linear. Now, if you integrated that chart and calculated the work done on the system, *that* would tell you just how strong the AC system is. Measuring Delta T in itself doesn't actually tell you anything, because it's not a linear relationship. C'mon, man! This is thermodynamics 101. If you're going to try and school us on AC systems, then at least get your theories right.

wrinkledpants 04-22-2013 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilberUrS6 (Post 7401893)
He's splitting hairs......

I'll split his hairs. My thermodynamics book is within arms reach, and his theories don't seem to be based on any kind of modern science.

kuehl 04-23-2013 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwest (Post 7401870)
you, of all people, do not understand....?

The amount of cooling a given volume of air receives, temperature delta, upon each pass through the evaporator is a reliable measure of he system's cooling capacity.

No comment

wwest 04-23-2013 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fintstone (Post 7401879)

IAT does not change appreciably enough to make much difference

In ALL my cars the IAT (Interior {cabin} Air Temperature), declines fairly quickly in the desribed rapid cool down mode...

...and is effectively OAT unless the vent temp is quite low and volume is quite high.

And you first, initially, run the system in "FRESH" mode (if available) and lower the windows slightly for a few miles to help PURGE the above OAT cabin atmosphere

If you start at 100F...a trickle of 65F air will not even overcome the engine heat and the sun coming through the windows.

Someone hypothesized that it would...?

Most folks drive their 911s for an hour or two at most. The rate of change would never make a serious impact. If after 8 hrs of driving my 100F interior drops to 98F...I am not impressed.

The max volume of air is fixed on all my 911s.

Nice touch, MAX addition.

It is on yours as well.

....

Tippy 04-23-2013 06:10 AM

I would love to see someone do the "wwest" mods in a 911 in south Texas and post back results.

If it works as "wwest" describes, that would be awesome for such little money to make an older 911 have cold vent temps as a modern 911 A/C.

Pazuzu 04-23-2013 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwest (Post 7401373)

Thank you

kuehl 04-23-2013 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pazuzu (Post 7402355)
Thank you

Mike, just be aware of the high side PSI break point

wrinkledpants 04-23-2013 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tippy (Post 7402350)
I would love to see someone do the "wwest" mods in a 911 in south Texas and post back results.

If it works as "wwest" describes, that would be awesome for such little money to make an older 911 have cold vent temps as a modern 911 A/C.

You're going to hear nothing but crickets. In fact, I haven't really seen anyone in these AC threads post the setup that wwest has that sees comfortable temps at idle in reasonably hot weather. So, that alone should tell you something.

In the 911's evolution over the years, I don't see a whole lot of expensive mods that aren't worth their weight. Drivers of these cars aren't the type to waste money on things that don't provide tangible results. The fact that these AC upgrades have been successful for a lot of people - despite the fact that there have been plenty of opportunities for people to add fans, get data, and report back, should also tell you something. If you could sit, at idle, in 95 degree weather with the AC on and it keeps you cool, all for the price of barrier hoses, 134 upgrade, and a couple fans - we would not be having this discussion because there would be a simple DIY thread, a list of parts, and we'd all be doing it. But - you don't see that. Why is that? Why is it that one man claims $500 will do the track rather than $2,000 - and yet we have seen ZERO data from ANYONE to back that up.

wwest 04-23-2013 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fintstone (Post 7401918)

He implies that vent temps are not important. Of course they are.

I implied no such thing! What said was, tried to relate, is that the best measure of a system's cooling capability is how much the first pass air volume temperature can be reduced.

Evaporator plenum intake air, for instance, at 100F and outflow at 60F, 40F change in air volume temperature in one pass with blower a MAX. That, of course would represent STELLAR system operation.


It is not rocket science...I can park my two targas side by side at 95F ambient. Open the windows and IAT=OAT. One Targa has a 33F vent temp and the other 56F.

My POINT, exactly. "One Targa has a 33F"(delta of: 95F minus 33F = 62F {Unrealistic, but hey, we can all DREAM) "and the other 56F." (Delta: 95F minus 56F = 39F, Beyond LEXUS of systems, assuming MAX blower speed.

One is comfortable almost immediately with the 33F air blowing on your body.

What..NO...GOD no! Is there any one of us that wouldn't be seriously discomforted after a few minutes of 33F airflow to our body...??

Eventually you will begin to see some effect of the system cooling already cooled air.

Not bloody likely, or did you close those windows...?

The other targa never gets comfortable.

You can drive cross country and it will never cool down the interior if there are 100F+ temps. That is why vent temps are so important. If you can only drop IAT by a degree or 2 per hour...it is negligible unless you are driving cross country...and even then, it heats back up to ambient if you stop for gas.

Now let's take your same test but make it a bit more like everyday use.

But since the Targa with the 62F delta is totally unrealistic lets just drop it.

Close the windows, start the test, MAX cooling, MAX blower. Most of us, I suspect would be perfectly pleased with that initial 56F air, with the full expectation that it will continue to decline as the system inlet airflow becomes cooler and cooler. At sone point we will realize that the system has done its "INITIAL" job and thus we will begin to moderate the system performance in order to not be discomforted.

That's the basis of the firmware control design for most modern automatic climate control systems, simply a computer replication of human thought process and resulting actions.

Anyone see this differently..?

wwest 04-23-2013 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilberUrS6 (Post 7401893)
He's splitting hairs. The interior temp of the car is going to be much higher than the OAT, initially. 140-150 degrees F around here, in the summer. The big delta is opening the windows for a couple of minutes to get that super-heated air out, and to begin cooling all those IR-absorbing black materials in the car. All the while, the AC is running, and cooling the ductwork. Close up the car, turn the fan on high and let the Griff's evap fan blow hard on that higher-capacity evaporator. The interior temperature drops very nicely when the output air is 45 degrees at the highest air volume. Pretty soon, you have goosebumps and have to turn the air and the AC down a touch. The car is still at about 80 degrees, but the evaporative cooling on your skin is now in effect. And 80 is better than 140. Soon, the fan is at it's lowest speed, and the AC is set at the speed next to "off", and the air coming out of the vents is 35 degrees, and the interior temp is about 70, and steady.

That's an almost perfect description of the operation, manual intervention inclusive, of my '88 Carrera system(***). Wish I'd said that. The only point of disagreement is that the wife and I would not long be comfortable with that 35(F) degree system outflow, ~55F, maybe.

Which is very close to what one might get with "the AC is set at the speed next to "off"", NOT 35F.

***Assuming decent road speed, no need for the fans. High desert, stop and go, slow moving traffic, the condensor cooling fans will definitely be required.

fintstone 04-23-2013 06:56 AM

Why is the 62F delta Targa unrealistic? I posted test results and photo of the guage above. If that is unrealistic to you...no wonder you think adding a fan to the condenser makes the AC wonderous. Your standards are just much lower than those of the rest of us. I guess that us why you don't provide test results to back your claims.

I also tested the Targa with 56F vent temps under approx the same conditions and after 8 hours of driving, the vent temps did not come down as you indicate the would and neither did the interior temps.

Obviously you close the windows after IAT drops to OAT. I did not expect that I would have to explain that to you.

Obviously once the 33F vent temps directed towards your skin make you uncomfortable, you redirect the vents...unless you are an idiot.

wwest 04-23-2013 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fintstone (Post 7401934)
When he specifically posts that he has tested his add-on fans and they will duplicate the performance posted above (which is what I would expect from an A/C system): "In 95F ambient air temp with full sun (over 300 shortwave insolation) system produces copious amounts of 40F air at high blower setting and a steady flow of 32F air at medium blower setting."...then he will be interesting. Until then...he is just tilting at windmills (and folks with well-designed, proved products). No one is looking for half a solution.

Okay, I can attest, gladly and truthfully of my '88 Carrera A/C system being fully capable of THAT. Not that I would ever be comfortable running the passenger cabin temperature down that low, nor even the airflow volume. I might hedge on the 32F bit though since my thermostatic control switch is very carefully set/calibrated to avoid evaporator freeze up. Probably ~35F easily.

It still freezes up in occasion but I suspect that is due to high elevation low atmospheric pressure interaction with the capillary system spring/bellows internal pressures.

wwest 04-23-2013 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuehl (Post 7402372)
Mike, just be aware of the high side PSI break point

Explain..?

wwest 04-23-2013 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fintstone (Post 7402448)
Why is the 62F delta Targa unrealistic? I posted test results and photo of the guage above.

62F "delta", at MAX blower speed and the cabin open to 95F atmosphere...? Not even a Lexus.

If that is unrealistic to you...no wonder you think adding a fan to the condenser makes the AC wonderous. Your standards are just much lower than those of the rest of us. I guess that us why you don't provide test results to back your claims.

I also tested the Targa with 56F vent temps under approx the same conditions and after 8 hours of driving, the vent temps did not come down as you indicate the would and neither did the interior temps.

Obviously you close the windows after IAT drops to OAT. I did not expect that I would have to explain that to you.

When publishing test data, EXPLICT test descriptions are a REQUIEMENT

Obviously once the 33F vent temps directed towards your skin make you uncomfortable, you redirect the vents...unless you are an idiot.

Redirect the vents, no I find it much more comfortable if I simply turn down the cooling. That's what that control is for, right? If I needed ~35F system airflow in order to keep the cabin at/near my 72F comfort level, then yes, I would be an idiot not to simply redirect the airflow direction.

But to my knowledge and memory that circumstance has never arisen, not even in my '78 Targa, even in Memphis.

wrinkledpants 04-23-2013 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwest (Post 7402462)
Okay, I can attest, gladly and truthfully of my '88 Carrera A/C system being fully capable of THAT. Not that I would ever be comfortable running the passenger cabin temperature down that low, nor even the airflow volume. I might hedge on the 32F bit though since my thermostatic control switch is very carefully set/calibrated to avoid evaporator freeze up. Probably ~35F easily.

It still freezes up in occasion but I suspect that is due to high elevation low atmospheric pressure interaction with the capillary system spring/bellows internal pressures.

Prove it.

fintstone 04-23-2013 08:33 AM

Wow! 35F vent temps at 95F ambient is impressive for a stock system. These cars would not even do that when new. So I should assume that adding a fan will do the same for my '89 Carrera? That is an improvement of over 20 degrees. Where do I get this fan? You should sell them for at least $2K each.

techman1 04-23-2013 10:01 AM

wwest has a theory that heat soak, after use, from a hot engine will create an over pressure, which I recall griffith as saying would be north of 300? ( Then there would be bleed off from the overpressure valve)

Shouldn't wwest (Or anyone) with a set of gauges be able to hook them up on a hot engine and watch the pressure? Does he have any data to show his fans prevent the dreaded pressure?

It is my belief that Porsche created a AC system, which, in perfect working order, could keep you cool..In germany or some situations. Maybe on the Autobahn at 120.

It does not cut it during summer in Orlando. BTDT. Additional flow and capacity is needed. Fact.

Jimred49 04-23-2013 10:29 AM

A/C Upgrade 1989 Porsche 911
 
I just completed upgrade using Retro Air parts for $1,320. Used my stock compressor and stock front condenser. New barrier hoses , rear condenser, evaporator/expansion valve and drier. Took about 13 hours to complete. Drier has a low and high pressure switch so when you first start charging system compressor will not start until pressure is above 20%. The great thing about this system it looks original and not a silly condenser behind the rear wheel. They also included a center vent and hose for the
Floorboard vent. This is a quality system and all hoses and parts fit perfect. I cannot believe when system was fully charged I was getting 33 degree air coming out of center vent setting in my driveway and believe it or not I had water dripping under my car.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1366741599.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1366741727.jpg

SilberUrS6 04-23-2013 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fintstone (Post 7402448)
Obviously once the 33F vent temps directed towards your skin make you uncomfortable, you redirect the vents...unless you are an idiot.

LOL. That's about right.

SilberUrS6 04-23-2013 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by techman1 (Post 7402825)
wwest has a theory that heat soak, after use, from a hot engine will create an over pressure, which I recall griffith as saying would be north of 300? ( Then there would be bleed off from the overpressure valve)

wwdoofus claims north of 500psi. Which I *do not believe*.

300+/-psi I might accept as a very outside condition.


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