I didn't do the best job when I cut out the lower fender to expose the rotten kidney and outer sill. School fees....

Luckily the lhd side is more complete.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742450.jpg

Lots of cardboard and tape....to get my head around the shapes and the process.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742478.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742517.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742539.jpg

Going to attempt to do this in two pieces, joining the lower and upper patches along the same lines as the factory join, with an overlap to avoid welding along the edges. That's the theory....In the absence of a shrinker, the plan might have to change.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742567.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742682.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742705.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742966.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407742998.jpg

Getting there, slowly.

this is so awesome man. Itching to get going on mine!!

"Rather have a car that has original rust vs. aftermarket rust."

Took a break from the front line (sills) to inspect the rest of the car and get a bit of perspective....

This is what the front end looks like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407856227.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407856253.jpg

God. I don't remember being this bad. I feel for the poor sucker who paid for this work to be done in the 80s.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407856374.jpg

Seams will have to go. As will most of the lower portions of the inner wings. Guess I will have to try and figure a way to keep the geometry but remove the rust. Next year's problem....at this rate!

Wow, it is worse than I thought when I saw your car last, and dare I say even worse than some of the crap I uncovered on mine! Do you have other areas on the car to focus on for a while so that I can sort us out with a jig?

Your future looks busy to say the least!

I am not far behind you on the welding front and always look to builds like this as inspiration. You have achieved more than you can ever document. You should be proud of yourself.

Keep the updates coming! I'm in love with your project!

Sad to think that a couple of years ago this car would have been considered a parts car at best - I'm really happy that you are saving her Matthew!

A bit of a low point.
But the more I look the less daunting it seems....a bit late for me to worry about being in over my head! "Dom mense moet swaar kry".

Jig would be brilliant. Read an interesting thread of a guy on here who built his own DIY Cellete. This weekend I will hopefully brace up the front in preparation of grinding out some of the rot. I have too much other stuff to focus on...closing up the sill, and the other side, window corners, floorpan etc etc etc.....

;)
We have no choice. We are the afflicted.
There are more out there like this one....we must find them!

Thanks man.
This forum started the whole thing! Seeing Speedo / Fishcop / Jury / Chris etc doing so much work themselves made me take the leap.
Glad I did, but sometimes in-between kids, work and life admin, it feels like I'm making no progress. But then the sense of accomplishment when you manage to replace a rotten piece worth shiny steel is pretty awesome.
I have done a lot of woodwork since I was a kid, but welding and working steel is whole new wonderland. I'm hooked.
What are you building / restoring?

Thanks for the encouragement. Upwards and onwards.

The home-brewed Cellette thread was inspirational to me too and is where I am trying to go to (if not engineered to THAT extent). Unfortunately finding readable drawings is rather difficult so first prize would be getting access to a stripped car with a solid front pan. If you know of one, or come across one for that matter please let me know!

Should have known you would have memorised that thread:)
There is a 912 being stripped as we speak. A 65. That might work. Same guy has a 65 911 awaiting stripping. He may well need the same jig we need, to finish his prototype S. I shall make some enquiries.

That will be perfect as the front suspension mounting points are the same as on our cars! Please let me know!

So the patch work continues.

Positioning the kidney.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350389.jpg

Getting the step worked in was a bit tricky. Part one of the 3-part patch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350443.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350485.jpg

Rather than shape the flange, I welded on the curve as a lip and then cut off and ground down the excess. Less risk of burn-through on the corners. Seems to have turned out well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350524.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350610.jpg

Same idea with the middle part of the patch

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350822.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350636.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350748.jpg

And they come together like so...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408350908.jpg

Getting closer to getting all the gaps correct.
But now I'm presented with a choice of doors.
The original doors have a perfect fit along the lock post but are rotten and were badly repaired along the bottom.
The 71 doors are solid but the lock post shut line isn't quite right.
Decisions decisions....

71 door:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408442032.jpg

67 door:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408442074.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408442096.jpg

The pressings of the early doors are lovely...imho.
Seems a shame to cover them up with door cards.
Thinking of leaving them bare.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408442172.jpg

I vote bare, though the caveat is that to get a near perfect paint job on the inside of the door (which your approach would leave visible) might be a problem, especially if you have to do patchwork which will leave welds to be dressed in a very tight space.

The inside face of the door is solid. Most of the welds will be on the outside and along the bottom....but the inside of the outside patch will be a bugger to dress. Hmmm.

My thinking exactly! You might be able to get in there with a die grinder though?

The door look like it had a HVO (high velocity opening).
And was badly repaired.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961385.jpg

Same goes for the bottom. I think I am being optimistic with the size of the cut. Suspect most of the leading edge will have to come out, but I'll try and break it into small bits to try and keep the shape the door intact.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961432.jpg

The front edge stands proud of the rocker by 10mm or so. Mostly as a result of the bad patch. The rest of the door gaps are pretty good and consistent.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961557.jpg

Almost ready to weld in the outer rocker.
Everything primed, fitted (perhaps a thousand times) and top coated where it'll be hidden from sunlight.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961635.jpg

Still amazed how rough welded steel cleans up when it has been ground down and primed. Looks mildly presentable!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961656.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962108.jpg

Cleanliness next to godliness. Degreaser a virtual component of the surface prep routine. Use in a well-ventilated area.....just saying.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408961911.jpg

The inner sill with fresh kidney. Finally all welded up and ready.
Small crevice needs attention...welding along edges....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962010.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962065.jpg

Waiting for primer to dry I dropped the gauges in.
Goodness they are pretty little things.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962462.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962483.jpg

And more patches. Porsche resto = 1000 little jobs, and a few big ones. It's the little ones that grind you down.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962542.jpg

And sometime in the distant future I'll get to grips with this little monster.
Looks pretty good. Ramps, chains and sprockets look used but not abused. Only time will tell what beasts lie within. A beautiful piece of engineering though.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408962579.jpg

I see you are using Duram NS5 as an etch primer. I have in the past used their NS4 product (non-etch version of NS5?) and found that it was incompatible with automotive paint. I put grey 2k with 5% thinners over it and this caused the NS4 to lose its integrity completely. Before you go much further please just check that NS5 does not have the same issues, as you really don't want to end up having to re-do your paint job!

This etch primer is thinners based.
Will do a test with 2k over the top, but it should be alright. Haven't had any issues using 2k over the top of the water-based rust converter.
But thanks for the warning. Much better to take the time to do a few tests panels and leave them while I get the rest of the work done.

The NS4 is the Rust-Proof Paint or some such. Water-based.
Routine was to spray in thinned rust converter, then cover with rustproof paint. Both water-based and both have hardened up nicely. I'll leave them as they are, with a Wurth wax coating over them.

What I am trying to do is use the rust-coverter / rust-proof paint, etch / topcoat in areas where I can't get back to with 2k primer. Transmission tunnel, torque tube, inner sill cavities etc. A petrol sprayer works well.

The rest of the car is 2k, so I'll stick with 2k primer and topcoat routine.
I'm using LUXOR brand. Have had no issues so far with the two coats of high build 2k primer I've put on the car.

Their system is pretty simple, compared to BASF et al.

Being thinners based is a good start, though my motto these day is "Trust but always check!". I have used Luxor brand in the past and can commend their high fill primer for being probably the most "sandable" primer out there - it is a pleasure to work with.

"Trust but always check!"
Advice for life.
Particularly Porsches.

Particularly useful when confronted with other statements like:
"The engine was rebuilt recently"
"The gearbox was rebuilt earlier this year"
"The car is perfect, not a cent to be spent"
"This car is rust free!"

Re: Luxor, sanding the primer is a joy. I have managed to get some sections to a really nice shine with 1500.

Been out of action for a month. That annoying thing called work!
After spending many hours test fitting and fettling the fabricated patches and 964 outer sill I took the plunge and started welding everything closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068688.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068352.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068311.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068328.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068379.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068402.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068427.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412068445.jpg

Some cleaning up and burn-throughs to remedy.
Toying with the idea of using lead to smooth out the joins...unfortunately the stitching between patch and lower fender leaves a few millimetres to fill.
Overall not a bad job for a beginner. Thank goodness for the hours and hours spent pouring over the step by step posts of Fishcop etc.

Cleaned-up the welds and started the long process of filling and sanding.
Lots of learnings in this section.
13 pieces in all, from inner rocker to the jacking reinforcement plate to kidney and outer sill.
Would loved to have used lead but that's a bridge too far.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792820.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792846.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792868.jpg

And now the filler.
Been a while since I used filler....lost 2 batches between the work bench and the car....a bit less activator!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792949.jpg

"Thin layers are easier to sand"....forgotten wisdom from my old Bosun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413792986.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793052.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793085.jpg

2nd go was much better, starting to make progress. Really great feeling when your fingers find no imperfections....only a few hundred hours to go!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793192.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793274.jpg

And then there is always one bit you forgot....I thought I could just fill this and move on, but considering the effort I'm going to not cutting this out would be cheating.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413793377.jpg

A little more progress.
Cut out the dodgy repairs and fashioned a patch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742110.jpg

As with most of the old repair work that was done on the car, the rotten steel was left in place and the new steel braised over the top....and then covered with a layer or two of Fibreglass.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742190.jpg

My highly sophisticated bending machine is really proving it's substantial set-up cost :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742265.jpg

And the 1 inch round bar welded on one end helps with getting a gentle profile.

Starting to learn that the welding is actually the easy bit - like woodwork and painting, the magic is all in the preparation and the fit! Or as they say in the film business: the more time you spend in pre-production, the less time you spend in post!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742310.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742332.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742446.jpg

And grind (still for me the trickiest bit)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742492.jpg

And fill...and sand.....

Hope to have the rhd side all filled and sanded and primed in the next few days.
I look at this side as my school fees, so that i can tackle the next major fix....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414742721.jpg

Wish I had a factory template to make sure the rear window fits once I have welded everything up!

wow, a remarkable journey you are on. Keep the faith man!

Thanks for that.
There's no turning back now!

The RHD door repair.
I suspect I may have turned a simple job into rather complicated one....

Decided the best approach was to avoid butt welding on the outer door skin and rather use a brace so I can lap weld the repair patch. The door is pretty tired so I'd like to use the minimum of filler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415269997.jpg

This is the plan (sketched on the door)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415269053.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415268743.jpg

The outer skin patch was pretty straight forward. But the lower piece was a little more complicated. My idea was to try and fashion one piece - only hand tools and a DIY anvil / buck made of scrap steel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415268884.jpg

Getting the step into the steel (without a flanging tool) involves much hammering of fingers and thumbs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270045.jpg

A bit of a cheat was to lap weld the bottom edges, with plug welds, rather than try and butt weld the whole thing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270159.jpg

Then trimmed the excess edge to mate up with a fold I put into the outer skin patch - to replicate the original pinched seam.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270232.jpg

Then pinched the seam with the anvil and a wooden block.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270361.jpg

Bottom looks okay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270418.jpg

Will be welding for a while - with long pauses between welds - beginning to learn how important heat management is "weld away from the corners"...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415270549.jpg

The welding is okay. The grinding is a pain in the engine....I find I really have to concentrate, which as my school career will attest, is not easy for me!

6 hours with no kids and admin to get to this point. So probably the same again to get the door filled and sanded, ready for primer. Worried about the interior of the door. At this rate I'd like to finish the welding and send the bugger to be acid dipped to take care of the rust that is inevitably hiding in all the nooks and crannies.

Creative work record, good ideas, courageous work. I like that !!

Thanks. Very kind. :)
Although I think I have more courage than intelligence.
Am certainly learning a lot: like most things in life it's all about preparation and patience.

Next job.
Time to strategise this beast.
The rear parcel shelf and window corners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356197.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356228.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356259.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356308.jpg

I'd like to try and save as much of the original shelf as possible - the pressing is rather handsome and I'd like to have the option of keeping it bare when the car is done (with the sound deadening on the engine bay side.

The plan is to use pieces from a 71 targa that didn't make it.
The structure is markedly different from the equivalent coupe, I guess in an attempt to stiffen the rear end a little.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356747.jpg

Discovered that the pressing of the smuggler's box lid is the same as the SWB parcel shelf! But unfortunately I have only one spare box lid.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415356864.jpg

Strategy is to use the corners of the Targa shelf. I'll try and overlap the patch by 10 mm under the edge of the original parcel shelf and plug weld for strength before lap welding the seam.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415357033.jpg

The added issue will be to make sure the geometry of the rear window is correct. To be honest, the RD replacement window patches are not as accurate as I would like: no rain channel on the outer side and the flanges look a little gentle (where they are pinched into the seam)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415357352.jpg

Splicing into the seam worries me. There really is no room for error from an aesthetic pov.

Barnes. You my friend have got some serious balls and stamina. You must have a happy wife.

I almost spat my coffee across my deskhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif
God that's funny.

She might be a little happier if I lavished my stamina and balls on her...so to speak....rather than on a rusty flat beetle in the garage!

Being decidedly anti-establishment and suspicious of authority all my life, even when the voices in my head tell me I'm mad, I consider it my duty to prove them wrong. I think they call that being stupidly stubborn. Although my wife has a four-letter word for it.

What progress on the 912, Barry Nel engine and 914?

Quick update.
The door. The bloody door.

My welding has improved as my patience has improved.

Welding sheet metal (old grumpy, messed with steel) is directly proportional to one's patience. Heat is the enemy. And 'wanting to just make some progress' is not an ally.
More reason to learn to TIG weld, or even better: gas weld and avoid grinding.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873000.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873037.jpg

I loathe grinding. But I am getting better at it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873361.jpg

And then you discover little bits that cannot be overlooked. That have to be cut out.
The downside of doing all the work yourself is that you where all the skeletons are.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873476.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873511.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873576.jpg

In hindsight I should have replaced this with one continuous patch.
School fees.
The rains have arrived so everything is starting to flash rust.
More reasons to get a move on and get things shiny and covered with epoxy primer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415873671.jpg

Looks nice! Though the MIG beads are a pain to grind, gas welding that would not have left you with a great result either as the amount if heat would have caused terrible warpage. TIG is the way to go!

Something you might enjoy at this point:

I have a friend who's motto is that your welding skills are inversly proporsional to your grinding skills...

Wow! That is an amazing amount of good work you are doing there! Cannot wait to see the end product!

BTW Matthew, I see there has been 11500 odd views of your thread - not bad going!

Yeah. Tig is the next step.
Your mate is absolutely right about the welding / grinding formula!

You and me both!
I can't wait to get the body done and primed. Will be a major milestone.