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Do I need to break the oil cooler lines for a fan replacement?

Swapping out the fan on my oil cooler, adding the low-temp switch, and replacing the non-existent foam seal. Seems like the oil cooler lines will likely be a giant pain in the ass given my car has 200K and it doesn't look like they've ever been touched. Wondering if I'll be able to squeeze in there and do everything I need to do without breaking those lines. It's an 88 3.2.

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Old 06-03-2013, 08:17 AM
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There are some threads/posts of people saying they performed this job by removing the bumperette and/or accessing from underneath by removing the horns.

I did the same job on my 89 and had to disconnect the oil lines. I found no way to do the job any other way. The hardest thing was re-installing the cooler with the new gasket. It was a very snug fit. I used the McMaster Carr gasket. Not the $100 OEM one.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:31 AM
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OK. I guess I might just have to bite the bullet and do it. Did you have to use heat, or just some big-azz adjustable wrenches?
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:58 AM
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The flexible braided lines will likely break loose from the hard lines coming from the back of the car without heat. Some very big wrenches from Harbor Freight or equivalent will help. ON the cooler side I recommend slicing the nuts carefully using a dremel and using a screw driver or cold chisel to crack the nuts and remove. If you try and remove the nuts from the cooler using wrenches you will most likely end up with destroyed threads on the aluminum cooler. I speak from experience ...
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:06 AM
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if i just break the flexible lines from the hard lines, do i need to also remove the lines off the cooler itself? i guess i'm not sure how the oil temp sensor is placed, but just assumed i could break the flexible lines from the hard lines, and not have to remove the lines from the cooler.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:20 AM
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How skinny are your arms? How good are you at working by feel?

The sensor from photos here should be on the front face of the upper tank. Tough spot but it may be doable in situ. If it were me I think I'd lift the car, remove the horns and see what kind of access I had. You don't need to drill any holes just remove and replace some items.

I have an a/m fan I intend to add for extra cooling. I'll be watching to see how this turns out. Good luck. -J
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:53 PM
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I'm pretty thin - and am pretty good working blind. I guess I'll just get it up in the air and see what's what.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:10 PM
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If you do have to break the lines be sure to put a garbage bag over the brakes and related area.
Old 06-03-2013, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinkledpants View Post
OK. I guess I might just have to bite the bullet and do it. Did you have to use heat, or just some big-azz adjustable wrenches?
Pretty sure I only disconnected the hard/flexible line joint. It was easier to access and there's no need to seperate at the cooler. Plus this joint is at the highest point and it will reduce the amount of oil drip.

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1989 911 Carrera Cab
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Euro Pre-Muffler, SW Chip
There's nothing better than: Listening to "Going Down the Road Feeling Bad" ,as I, "Go Down the Road Feeling Bad"
Old 06-03-2013, 02:09 PM
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