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Question Another CIS question

Hello,

I have a 1980 911sc. It runs a little bit rough (some bucking) in the low revs (1500-2200 RPM). I also getting pretty bad MPG, around 20 hwy, barely 14 in the city. I keep reading about people getting 26-7 mpg highway, and I wonder what going on.

I recently found a vacuum leak, and fixed it. Now, when I remove the oil cap with the engine running, the revs drop down slightly as they should. Since I fixed it, my mileage has actually been worse (I'll be lucky to get 12 MPG this time).

I thought maybe my fuel mixture was out of wack, but I see to keep reading that the mixture adjustments only control the idle, and that the Lambda system should be adjusting my mixture (when engine is warm) up to about 3000 RPM.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I was thinking about trying the mixture setting adjustment method explained by Motosook in a popular fuel adjustment thread, but I wonder if mixture is my problem at all. Here's the thread: CIS Idle Speed and Mixture Setting Without an Analyzer

Some other info: I'll start the car cold, it will fire after 2 seconds, immediately idle at 1000, then increase the idle to 1300-1500. After several minutes, the idle comes back down to 900m and it hangs steady there. Before I fixed the vacuum leak, the idle would surge between 950 and 1150. At the time, a friend of mine and my uncle told me they thought it was running rich.

Anyone?

Old 05-24-2013, 04:13 PM
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replace 02 sensor.
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off.
2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver)
Old 05-24-2013, 04:40 PM
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I agree with replacing the o2 sensor, or at least unplug it and see if it makes a difference
Old 05-24-2013, 05:16 PM
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I replaced the O2 sensor today. The car seems to be running better so far. I'll see what kind of mileage I get and update soon. Thanks guys.
Old 06-03-2013, 10:56 AM
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Did you try running the car with the O2 sensor disconnected?
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:14 PM
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control pressures should be checked, make sure you have no more air leaks, replace plugs, cap and rotor, check timing and advance set mixture. if O2 has more than 100k on it, replace it.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:40 PM
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I did not try to unplug the sensor first. It's a cheap part and I did not have an record of it being changed in the service history, so I just replaced it.

I'm pretty sure I don't have an other 'major' air leaks. The plugs were changed less than 10k miles ago. I have no idea how to check the timing or the advance set mixture.

The O2 sensor was extremely difficult to remove. Now that I've driven a few days, I'm noticing my foot is not nearly as deep into the gas when cruising around. I'm still waiting to get a new mileage number.

How much should
Old 06-06-2013, 10:00 AM
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How much would it cost to have someone set the timing/advanced mixture? Is it something I can/should do myself?
Old 06-06-2013, 10:27 AM
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Good grief! I just spent 10 minutes typing a reply and hit the wrong button and loss it all.

Short version:

with engine idling at operating temp, gently (~ 1 mm) lift the air plate and see if the engine stumbles or idle increases. Stumble = rich, idle increase = lean. Some probably compensated for the air leak, no fixed, the engine is idling rich.

Get familiar with the CIS components before you go making adjustments. Throwing things out of wack, then trying to figure out what happened to fix it is one of the hardest things about any repair or troubleshooting task.
Old 06-06-2013, 12:24 PM
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And since there is little indication of geographic location I'd say an increase in elevation means less "stumble" and more of a crisp ever-so-slightly-hanging throttle response. Providing oil temps are in check, of course.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:38 PM
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at a shop they'd probably charge an hour of time (it would be done in less, but they have to move cars around garage, make money, etc.). you need a CO gauge ($200 for cheap one) and timing light ($15 at harbor freight) to do yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parr View Post
How much would it cost to have someone set the timing/advanced mixture? Is it something I can/should do myself?
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Last edited by schumicat; 06-06-2013 at 01:57 PM..
Old 06-06-2013, 01:55 PM
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Motosook,

Is it necessary to fool with the mixture since I have an operating Lambda system? I have read a lot of info on this site, but I can't seem to find an answer to that question. Doesn't the lambda system make fuel adjustments. I've never been 100% on this.

Also, if i do need to adjust the mixture, should I unplug the O2 sensor first?
Old 06-06-2013, 04:22 PM
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Parr, for Cis you are going to need proper tools before you go any further and screw things up. Get a gage, a dwell meter and a timing light. and any cis book, they are pretty much all the same. Moto Sook, who is also an expert, gave you advice for a quick check, but your timing and control press. needs to be set first thing. Not to hard to work on once you under stand how k jet works, and all the parts are pretty much serviceable, (you can rebuild them) Isnt there a cis primer on Pelican?
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Last edited by don gilbert; 06-06-2013 at 06:52 PM..
Old 06-06-2013, 05:52 PM
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My question concerning the lambda system and adjusting the mixture still stands...
Old 06-06-2013, 06:23 PM
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the o2 set can only compensate so much for wrong control press, any thing below 45 or over 65 , and it will not keep at stoiche.
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fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do.
Old 06-06-2013, 06:52 PM
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Jim's Basement Workshop CIS Primer:

CIS Primer for the Porsche 911
Old 06-07-2013, 04:18 AM
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the lambda system adjusts mixture using the frequency valve during closed loop operation. during open loop it does not which is why the mixture still needs to be set. this is probably an oversimplification.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parr View Post
Motosook,

Is it necessary to fool with the mixture since I have an operating Lambda system? I have read a lot of info on this site, but I can't seem to find an answer to that question. Doesn't the lambda system make fuel adjustments. I've never been 100% on this.

Also, if i do need to adjust the mixture, should I unplug the O2 sensor first?
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off.
2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver)
Old 06-07-2013, 04:23 AM
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This sounds similar to a problem I had but yours may be worse. I say "had" -- my WUR is currently out being recalibrated by a fellow Pelican.

I had a few issues to sort and this is (fingers crossed) the last one.

First thing is we need to know the type of WUR on your car. There is a 3 digit number like 090 (mine) to the right of the part number.

Disconnect the electrical connection on your WUR and hook up the a multimeter using alligator clips. Take a resistance reading (Ohms) and report back the results. For type 090 it should be 25-26 Ohms range, if it is less (mine was 9.2) that is a problem. When the resistance is too low, the plunger in the WUR closes too quickly making the engine lean out before it should.

Do you have a set of CIS fuel pressure gauges? Next step is to check the system and control pressure.
Old 06-07-2013, 04:32 AM
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I'll grab the number off the WUR and give it a test tomorrow. Thanks.
Old 06-07-2013, 05:10 PM
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Still haven't had a chance to grab the number or test the WUR. I'll get to it soon. I've been working on the house.

Another peice of information I wanted to share. When it rains, the low end performance is especially bad when the car is cold, even after changing the O2 sensor.

Old 06-11-2013, 05:14 AM
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