Any reason I can't adjust intake valves first?

[r-mm]

Going to be doing my first valve adjustment this weekend - am I missing anything or would it be fine to not drain the oil and start with the intake valves only? Access is far easier (no a/c) and I think it'll give me a good intro to the procedure. Going to couple it with a compression check.

[LakeCleElum]

You can do that. Don't have to drain oil to do exhaust if you jack up that side of the car....

Best if Compression ck did with a warm engine and then let cool overnight to do the valves.....G'luck

[r-mm]

Got it, thanks.

If I don't finish the valve adjustment for whatever reason I'm guessing its best to put the valve covers back on with the original gasket and not ruin my (non reusable) new gaskets.

[Storage Man]

R-mm
Let me know If you need a hand with this...
Would like to see how it's done

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by Storage Man

R-mm
Let me know If you need a hand with this...
Would like to see how it's done

Won't say no to some help... I'll send you an email.

[schumicat]

it will take longer that way, because you typically would get the engine at TDC for #1 cylinder and do the intake and exhaust valves before rotating engine 120 degs. and doing the next one. you have some increased chance of losing track of where it should be rotated your way.

[Hnichols]

I'm assuming you're using the traditional method (backside you have to have both covers off simultaneously).

If this is your first time, I think you're making matters more difficult than they have to be. Accessing the intakes is not easy. The exhausts, on the other hand, are right in front of your nose (I'm assuming you're removing the cat/cat bypass) and you can practice getting the feel before moving on to the intakes.

I just did this my first time, and while ultimately a satisfying job, it is time consuming and tricky. I would make it as easy on yourself as possible. Drain the oil, remove the cat (if you can), and check the clearances with the backside method before and after.

Just my .02 -- good luck!

[Lapkritis]

Pop the upper covers and lower covers off at the same time. I understand the Porsche wrenches are normally those of ritualistic behaviors but you can use your eyeballs to confirm the lobes that are aligned and also wiggle the rockers to check if they're in position for adjustment. This playing with crank alignment is for the birds and is a complete waste of time. Make sure the rocker pad is on the side away from the cam lobe and the rocker arm is loose (wiggle side to side). If so, proceed with adjustment of all in this condition. Once those few are done, bump the starter (plug wires are disco'd and nothing hanging where it can get caught up) over and check your remaining valves and adjust. Normally three bumps with adjustments and you're done with the adjustment. Keep a score sheet to let you know which you've done and check the box. 30mins job with this method and I prefer the front side to back side.

Cylinder Intake Exhaust
1 | |
2 | |
3 | |
4 | |
5 | |
6 | |

[r-mm]

Is there space to get an impact wrench onto the nuts holding he cat to heax ex, cat to muffler? Do these commonly need to be cut off?

Bentley tells me to remove the muffler to remove the cat - is this the easiest way to gain access to the exhaust valves?

[Dodge Man]

Drain the oil & just get it done. It is not a 1600 VW motor. The rockers have a "ball pivot" against the valve and that can make valve adjustment a challenge. Use the Pelican 0.004 tool and make the gage just slide thru lightly tight. Get extra sets of gage inserts because they get trashed quickly. Inserts have to be bent and then slid into the gap which destroys the inserts in 1-3 valve adjustments. My valves do not rattle. Also, tight valves will give you the "blue puff" at start-up.

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by Dodge Man

Drain the oil & just get it done. It is not a 1600 VW motor. The rockers have a "ball pivot" against the valve and that can make valve adjustment a challenge. Use the Pelican 0.004 tool and make the gage just slide thru lightly tight. Get extra sets of gage inserts because they get trashed quickly. Inserts have to be bent and then slid into the gap which destroys the inserts in 1-3 valve adjustments. My valves do not rattle. Also, tight valves will give you the "blue puff" at start-up.

I have the occasional blue puff. Besides that, valve adjustment doesn't effect oil consumption does it? I know it can lead to valve guide wear and cause overheating of valves but wondering if anyone sees a drop in consumption?

I have the pelican tool and three add'l inserts. Only reason for not draining the oil is because I have no idea how long this will take my first time round.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by Dodge Man

Drain the oil & just get it done. It is not a 1600 VW motor. The rockers have a "ball pivot" against the valve and that can make valve adjustment a challenge. Use the Pelican 0.004 tool and make the gage just slide thru lightly tight. Get extra sets of gage inserts because they get trashed quickly. Inserts have to be bent and then slid into the gap which destroys the inserts in 1-3 valve adjustments. My valves do not rattle. Also, tight valves will give you the "blue puff" at start-up.

I've never head of this before and don't know what you mean. I do know that too little valve lash causes the valve to retain more heat as it is against the valve seat for less time . . .

[CCM911]

You may be able to get an impact wrence on some of the Cat nuts/bolts, but just be prepared to cut some of them off if they are really rusty. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to get mine off. Then I replaced all the Hardware with Stainless. I know it sounds like a pain, but you will only do this once. DO NOT REMOVE THE MUFFLER. It can be done quite easily with the muffler in situ.

And also, just do the complete job. You will do an oil change and a valve adjustment and then be good to go.

Best of luck. And just remember that you can always ask the folks on this board should you run into any difficulties.

Originally Posted by r-mm

Is there space to get an impact wrench onto the nuts holding he cat to heax ex, cat to muffler? Do these commonly need to be cut off?

Bentley tells me to remove the muffler to remove the cat - is this the easiest way to gain access to the exhaust valves?

[OsoMoore]

If you are removing a rusted cat/cat-bypass, be sure to pick up new gaskets for its 3 different connections. Also it is recommended you take steps to prevent the new bolts you use from rusting - a search here will find you several options.

[Tippy]

I never understand why people drain the oil to do the valves. Not a whole lot comes out. Just seems like a waste of precious oil.

[Hnichols]

Originally Posted by r-mm

I have the occasional blue puff. Besides that, valve adjustment doesn't effect oil consumption does it? I know it can lead to valve guide wear and cause overheating of valves but wondering if anyone sees a drop in consumption?

I have the pelican tool and three add'l inserts. Only reason for not draining the oil is because I have no idea how long this will take my first time round.

A good question: I'd be interested in what some of the resident experts have to say on that. I actually measured my oil consumption on a 2200 mile trip (Chicago to MA) right after the adjustment, and it seems like there was improvement from last year when I did the same trip (about 1200mi/qt from 900mi/qt). But there may have been other factors involved.

Is there increased valve guide wear when the valves are too tight -- or too loose?

You're wise to factor in more time for the adj. -- patience is key. It might be better to do the job when you don't need the car for a couple of days. Reattaching everything -- valve covers, distributor, plugs?, etc. -- and taking the car off jack stands, and then doing it all over, while easy can be time consuming. Time might be better spent just finishing the job (?).

[Marc Bixen]

DON'T DO A COMPRESSION TEST FIRST. Sorry if someone covered this already, but ALWAYS leave the spark plugs in until the valve adjustment is done. If you remove the plugs, at least one or more of the exhaust valves will be open. If, when the spark plug is removed a small piece of carbon falls on the open exhaust valve seat you will get an incorrect valve lash measurement. Besides, if you have a tight valve you'll get a low reading anyways. So leave the plugs in, adjust the valves THEN check compression. If you insist on doing a compression test first, perform the compression test, re-install the spark plugs, run the motor for a bit ( to get rid of loose carbon) then let it cool to room temp and adjust the valves. Good luck, enjoy!

[Ronnie's.930]

There sure is some wacky "advice" being given in this thread . . .

[Storage Man]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

There sure is some wacky "advice" being given in this thread . . .

Which Ron?

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by Marc Bixen

DON'T DO A COMPRESSION TEST FIRST. Sorry if someone covered this already, but ALWAYS leave the spark plugs in until the valve adjustment is done. If you remove the plugs, at least one or more of the exhaust valves will be open. If, when the spark plug is removed a small piece of carbon falls on the open exhaust valve seat you will get an incorrect valve lash measurement. Besides, if you have a tight valve you'll get a low reading anyways. So leave the plugs in, adjust the valves THEN check compression. If you insist on doing a compression test first, perform the compression test, re-install the spark plugs, run the motor for a bit ( to get rid of loose carbon) then let it cool to room temp and adjust the valves. Good luck, enjoy!

Thanks for the reminder. I'm gearing up to do the valve adj. next weekend so I will comp. test this weekend which will let me do a before/after. I also replaced the spark plugs about a month ago so the bulk of any loose carbon should have been dislodged then.