85 carrera engine drop 1st timer.

[dalboa]

Ok, I ran into some problems when adjusting clutch. I'm thinking the clutch fork is the culprit and have decided to go ahead & install new clutch, pressure plate etc. I have completely disconnected everything so far as I can tell and plan to watch all around engine as I lower it in increments.
I'm down to the engine mounts and trans mount and am hoping for some advice. There are four bolts into the trans on that plate and then the trans mounts one per side. Can I just unbolt the four trans bolts and have the necessary clearance for sliding the trans and engine out? I plan to replace the trans mounts anyway so if its just as easy to drop the sway bar now I will. What do you recommend?

[sundevil64]

I would not do it that way. Remove the sway bar. It's 6 bolts aka 5 min tops. I am not sure if you would have clearance or not, but for what little work it is I remove the sway bar.

Make sure your ground strap is unbolted from the chassis. A lot of people forget this and the starter wires when getting caught up with fuel and oil lines. Use either a motorcycle jack or hydraulic lift table if you have one. If not, they are cheap at HF.

I actually have two hydraulic lift tables that I use back to back when separating or mating a trans and motor. Works great!

[dalboa]

Hey great advice. I'll pick up a table tomorrow. I couldn't find a ground strap, did unhook all the starter wires. I've read it could be hooked to one of the four bolts holding the trans to the engine. Not there. I have a motorcycle jack under it right now buy am a little uneasy about how to hold the engine/ trans together without teetering around and becoming two engines! Thought I'd try and use tie downs. But if the table has a greater area that will be my route I guess.

[yelcab1]

You can almost see the end of the ground strap attached to the body in your picture. Start in the center of the picture, go to the right 1/3 of the way and you can see the end of the strap.

[dalboa]

Hey great advice. I'll pick up a table tomorrow. I couldn't find a ground strap, did unhook all the starter wires. I've read it could be hooked to one of the four bolts holding the trans to the engine. Not there. I have a motorcycle jack under it right now buy am a little uneasy about how to hold the engine/ trans together without teetering around and becoming two engines! Thought I'd try and use tie downs. But if the table has a greater area that will be my route I guess.

[dalboa]

Yelcab1, I must be blind. Still not seeing it in the pic. Thanks for tipping me off though as tomorrow I will scour that location.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by dalboa

Yelcab1, I must be blind. Still not seeing it in the pic. Thanks for tipping me off though as tomorrow I will scour that location.

Here is the nut that holds it to the body shell, it slides over a stud.. other end is on one of the transmission housing bolts. After taking it off wire brush the area and the strap, use a new clean washer and nylock nut to remount.

[Discseven]

Dal... ground strap...




Motorcycle lift works great to move engine around and up & down (to and from engine stand.) Below is balance point for '85 3.2 engine and 915 trans. (Rock hard 2x4 is used.) Note that engine and trans do not just drop vertically down for removal --- front of engine (fan end) needs to tilt down first, then engine & trans are moved towards the back of the car a few inches so shifter rod can exit tunnel... then the engine & trans can drop vertically (or car can be raised.) This tilting is reason for using 2x4 as a pivot.

Have fun!

[dalboa]

Discseven, thanks a bunch. This forum is great! I appreciate the help. I had a couple of beetles a few years ago and the ground straps on those would stare at ya once under the car.

[sundevil64]

A motorcycle jack will work fine but use a couple of 2x4's handy for lateral stability. A friend and I did manage to nearly lose a turbo motor when the wood gave way. So use a hardy 2x4 or 5/8" plywood. I've used both. I've used a jack. It was scary by myself, but definitely doable. Watch it coming back (rearward) that you don't hit the top of the fan shroud on the rear lower valance. remove the rubber boot for the intake it will give a few extra inches. I'm not sure what you are working with. Make sure you stuff a visible rag in the tb so as not to get crap inside. From the looks of it there is some. If the ground strap is marginal toss it and get another. They are available at tractor supply if they are in your area or a vw dealer. I'm not sure where you are at since it's not in your profile. Good luck. Before you know it you'll have these things out in an hour on your own!

Plug your oil cooler drain or you do what I did and spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning the driveway with degreaser...

[Smoove1010]

Give some thought to this approach:

- Do all of your disconnections - there are some good checklists on this forum;
- Jack up the car just enough so that you can get under it to take out the two transmission mount bolts. Support on jackstands;
- Support the powertrain with your choice of jacking setup;
- Remove the transmission mount bolts and motor mount bolts. If you're engine support is balanced, you'll see little movement when you take these bolts out;
- Drop engine down onto a rolling dolly;
- Jack the car up off of the engine. Check all around as you jack up the car for any connections you might have forgotten.

I did mine this way. The drop distance was about 6", and totally devoid of any drama or balancing act. It took a little longer, but it made this very do-able as a single-handed operation.

Good luck!
GK

[rokemester]

MAN! Looks like a precarious position, I'm not seeing any jack stands. Hopefully they're just out of camera range. Safety first, just sayin.

Originally Posted by Discseven

Dal... ground strap...




Motorcycle lift works great to move engine around and up & down (to and from engine stand.) Below is balance point for '85 3.2 engine and 915 trans. (Rock hard 2x4 is used.) Note that engine and trans do not just drop vertically down for removal --- front of engine (fan end) needs to tilt down first, then engine & trans are moved towards the back of the car a few inches so shifter rod can exit tunnel... then the engine & trans can drop vertically (or car can be raised.) This tilting is reason for using 2x4 as a pivot.

Have fun!

[1-ev.com]

Blue lift arms... lift has clicks

Originally Posted by rokemester

MAN! Looks like a precarious position, I'm not seeing any jack stands. Hopefully they're just out of camera range. Safety first, just sayin.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by rokemester

MAN! Looks like a precarious position, I'm not seeing any jack stands. Hopefully they're just out of camera range. Safety first, just sayin.

Roke...

[1-ev.com]

here some more info I've started thread How much time will it take to drop a 911 engine?