|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Fuel lines through the tunnel
Has anyone used stainless steel fuel lines through their tunnel? I just purchased a roll of 3/8 stainless steel so I can experiment with it.
David |
||
|
|
|
|
Easily Confused
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 431
|
I think it's a reasonable mod since they are a PITA to change. The challenge will be getting connectors to adapt 3/8" pipe to metric threaded connectors.
I looked at doing this when I re-did my lines but ultimately went back with stock lines. Getting the connectors, adapters, etc. to work cleanly in the front of the car became too much of a headache for me. I was worried about persistent leaks on any compression-type connectors. Flaring the tube-ends is another option.
__________________
Scott C. '08 Cayenne GTS 6MT : '89 Targa GP White/Black - "Oliver's Car" : '11 Mitsu Evo X : '08 Lexus IS350 F-Sport : '01 Toyota Sequoia : 1998 Yamaha V-max : 1979 BMW R65 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Yes, I'm going to add the 37 degree flair to one and and hopefully weld a male AN-6 bung to the other end.
David |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Looks like Tom has already done this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5knrIAQa_a0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLL9VnPQ-PQ Last edited by Harpo; 02-24-2021 at 06:30 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Easily Confused
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 431
|
Quote:
__________________
Scott C. '08 Cayenne GTS 6MT : '89 Targa GP White/Black - "Oliver's Car" : '11 Mitsu Evo X : '08 Lexus IS350 F-Sport : '01 Toyota Sequoia : 1998 Yamaha V-max : 1979 BMW R65 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,298
|
I'd be concerned with the SS tubes bouncing/rattling around in the tunnel (noise and wear) and possibly interfering with the throttle. The factory fuel tunnel lines (and most replacement sets) are contained in a smaller tunnel INSIDE the tunnel that isolates and protects your fuel lines.
I don't think it's possible to get rigid SS lines into the smaller tunnel in the tunnel.
__________________
1978 SC Targa |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
I ran my stainless lines inside the tunnel in the tunnel and they don't rattle. There are some strategic spots to cover with tubing to avoid chafing.
Stainless is much harder than the stock nylon lines in my 74 and the nylon didn't show any wear. You do need to choose your fittings wisely because that is what determines what fits through the tunnel.
__________________
www.ahhgaragetime.com |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Tom, I was hoping to silver solder a male bung on one one and flair the other end after installation using the tool below. I suspect that The Eastwood tool would not be capable of performing the flair in car and I'm hoping the hydraulic tool can be done in car. I was also considering using heat shrink tubing on the outside to dampen any metal on metal contact.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9UVVSX/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=hotrodhippie-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01N9UVVSX&linkId=c64f3dc3f581fc347a0c0e1ed392525e#customerRe views Last edited by Harpo; 02-24-2021 at 11:09 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Harpo, worth a try.
3/8" stainless is hard to flare so do a test piece for sure. Aluminum is an option too. I pre-flared both sides. The front was an inverted flare because the fitting is compact. I did have to stretch the extruded hole a tiny bit on the front bulkhead. I also pressure tested my lines flares before installing in the car. Something to think about. My line return is 5/16"
__________________
www.ahhgaragetime.com |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Thanks Tom,
I will definitely pressure test. Using the hydraulic 37 degree flair tool was a piece of cake on the SS (aluminum makes me anxious). Silver solder is out of the question as the -an6 male bung cross section is too small. Also I plan on using 3/8 line for both the supply and return. Last edited by Harpo; 03-01-2021 at 07:06 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,244
|
|||
|
|
|
|
Get off my lawn!
|
I understand the desire to have steel lines. I just bet it will require the engine and transmission to be removed to have the access to install them.
I installed Len's plastic lines like the factory used. With two people doing a push-me-pull-you they went in easily. Doing them by myself was just an exercise in frustration. I am very happy they are in and done. Good luck with stainless steel lines. I just suspect it is going to be way harder than factory style lines. I hope for your sake I am wrong.
__________________
Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Finally got my tubing straightener. BTW this model is not strong enough to completely straighten my 3/8 SS lines. I believe the length is 64 inches.
Last edited by Harpo; 03-06-2021 at 01:12 PM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Reiver
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 57,637
|
The flex poly tubing Porsche uses/used is basically indestructible..my Indy shop has never seen one fail and he's been in business 40 years. I'd trust that over rigid tubing any day in that tunnel.
__________________
De Oppresso Liber Strength and Honor 5th Legion |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
![]()
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 6,163
|
![]() Looks good Harpo- Here is another w SS Lines done by a fellow Pelican... ![]() ![]() I sent him custom M14 Male fittings that worked out well. No rattles or issues over a few years now. Len
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
|
I used this coupler to re-route a former feed line into a needed tank return line, then sourced a new flex hose from Len (BoxsterGT) for a pressure line.
![]() Sherwood |
||
|
|
|