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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Mid-South
Posts: 198
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Is windshield install really a DIY?
It is time to put the glass back in the 73; I have read the instructions from our host and was ready to tackle the job but a friend (who thinks building an airplane is a DIY project) says to let the pros do it. Too much of a chance of breaking the glass. Anyone here done it? Is there something I am missing? The instructions seem pretty straightforward.
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Conneticut
Posts: 5,102
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It is pretty simple has long you have the right size soaped up pull cord
and NEW factory gasket with new trim... aftermarket seals and used trim .. it is almost impossible to get it right .. |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 450
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Windshield Replacement DIY
Its a two person job that fairly straight forward. After you do it a couple of times and are comfortable you should be able to do the actual install in 20 minutes. It takes some time to precisely place the rubber gasket and trim in the gasket. A couple tips I learned was get 1/4" diameter nylon rope to string into the rubber gasket which you'll pull from the interior and suck the gasket over the metal body lip. Have your buddy on the outside pushing lightly on the glass near the gasket where you are pulling the rope on the inside. Also use 303 Aerospace protectant to lube the gasket, it works better or equal to liquid soap. You can spray it on the metal lip of the body to lube and slide the rubber seal. It worked great for me. Its a bit intimidating of a project but after you do it you'll be happy you did it your self plus you'll save about a $100 bucks!
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Garage Queen
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Yes, It is a DIY Job.
Easiest way to get the metal trim in is to put the seal on the windshield, lay the metal trim over the slot just how you want it to look and use this type of clamp to carefully push it into place. Then you use the string trick to get it in the car. Also it is easiest to lay the windshield over a box with the edges hanging off while putting the seal and trim on the glass. ![]()
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Stephanie '21 Model S Plaid, '21 Model 3 Performance '13 Focus ST, Off to a new home: '16 Focus RS,'86 911 Targa 3.4, '87 930, '05 Lotus Elise, '19 Audi RS3, |
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Immature Member
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I found it easier than the rear quarter glass. Make sure your aluminum trim pieces follow the contour of your glass precisely BEFORE you put the new seal on the glass. Make sure there aren't any kinks or waves as these don't disappear when you put the glass in, and if the trim pops out of the seal while installing you get to start again.
Does your have rear defrost? Reinstalling the wires is a small P pain in the ass. Feeding them thru the grommet hole in the rear parcel shelf is also ![]() ![]() I had the assistance of a 240lb friend who could just lean his palms on the glass to give adequate pressure from the outside. Don't bounce on the glass and go side-side with your string to keep things even, don't 'warp" the glass. It's easier than you think. Don't scrimp on the soapy water and reapply as it dries after a few minutes. I used 16ga insulated wire as my pull cord. No worries about it tearing when things got tight, but I can't say whether it works better/worse than string.
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1984 Carrera Coupe = love affair 1997 Eagle Talon Tsi = old girlfriend (RIP) 2014 Chrysler 300 AWD Hemi = family car "Lowering the bar with every post!" |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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About every tip I had already covered. But the windshield can easily be a one man (or woman) job. I've done it that way every time, and the shop guys do too. You can be outside the car reaching in for the string, and over the glass to apply light pressure.
The trim is the trickiest. It is said to be (and I would agree) impossible to install after the glass is already in the car. You can just leave it off. I drove that way for quite a while after my first install, because I didn't know about how to do the trim. But I have a sneaking suspicion that without the trim spreading the rubber seal some the glass is not quite as well secured. Luckily, you (or, in my case, a glass shop) can install a black rubber trim piece with the glass in the car. I am a child of the Cal look for trims, so this is doubly attractive. My first install of the rear went well enough (though I think I left the trim off). The second time was very frustrating. Despite using saw horses like one of the pictures, and carefully forming the trim to match the curves, I just could not get the trim to stay in all the way around, so gave up. And, to my dismay, I couldn't get the defroster wires attached on that go around, though I had on the first one. I see in the picture some wires which look like they were pulled from the chassis, and maybe that was where I had trouble connecting them to the glass with everything almost in place and ready for the string pulling. The black rubber trim trick works on the rear also, although I think the glass guy said he'd never do that again. But he got it in. But the front is a piece of cake, really. A helper is helpful, but not essential. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Mid-South
Posts: 198
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Good advice. I have to put front & rear in and the local guy wants $125 each. Then again, as a percentage of the rebuild that's pretty small. I am skipping the rear defrost. Already have the defrost switch wired to the oil cooler fan.
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Registered
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$125 ea. for the installation sounds pretty reasonable. Make sure he's done alot of these before, though. (Alot of glass shops don't bother even if they have someone who knows the old windows, because your car will take up garage space for too long.)
The rear defrost isn't a big deal if you're patient. Cutting slits in rubber is a bit tricky; maybe practice on the old seal before cutting into the new one. Here's a link for a post I made after my rear window install. Maybe it will help: My rear window project Good luck! |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Important: spend a few dollars extra for an original Porsche seal. They have better fit and are easier to install.
Otto |
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Acquired Taste
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you'll be better prepared the second time you try it.....
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78SC PRC Spec911 (sold 12/15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7I6HCCKrVQ Now gone: 03 996TT/75 slicklid 3.oL carb'd hotrod 15 Rubicon JK/07.5 LMM Duramax 4x/86 Ski Nautique Correct Craft |
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Go-Kart Mozart
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Crimson Nape...I see what you so eloquently did there.
This may be all for naught as I don't know if Jerry will drive up to Germantown. I decided it was time to replace the w/s in my 86 earlier this spring. Chips, leaks etc. I bought the OE trim and prepared to do the job myself. When I was calling around to find the best price on the StGobain-Sekurit glass Jerry Ratcliffe at Sardis Glass (662)-487-3976 told me he'd install the w/s for the price of the glass. Better yet his glass price was $35 less than the next closest guy. I took him up on his offer and he did a great job. Went in right the first time and no leaks all summer. Jerry's a cool cat and been around forever and his bread and butter is dealership and bodyshop work, but he does a good bit of custom and hot rod work in the area. When he was here for the install we discussed the 993 w/s conversion and he said he was game. Most of the custom jobs he does are urethane set glass. I may go that way when this one is busted. He was careful with my trim, careful with my antenna. Dropped it straight in. Couple of things probably worked in my favor. I'm only 20 miles away and I work from home so I had no problem giving him a few days window so he could work the job in. I had tons of various sealants in my w/s channel so I cut the old glass out and spent several evenings getting everything clean and ready go. I also had him install a w/s on my Co. car at the same time. No doubt you can do this yourself, but if you are still looking might be worth a call. -J
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86 Carrera Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken Last edited by JAR0023; 08-24-2013 at 09:06 PM.. |
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