Nope. But she moves fast (drove her hard on our first date) and high maintenance!SmileWavy

You're right about that!

Open the engine lid on my 993 after a hot run and you would think a lot of hot air would bellow upwards. Not so. The heat is trapped in the big fat rear fenders. Fenders are so hot you could burn your hand if you touched them.

I just pop the lid and let it cool down without a fan. I have done this for 20 years.

Bunch of crybabies.. put your cheek on the fenders an if you can't hold it there start knitting..

Exactly which "cheek" do you recommend (upper or lower)?! :D

I think the 993 can kick in the heater fan to blow air through the heat exchangers to help cool the engine while shut down.

I'm sure Kelogges could engineer an ice cold solution for the 11.86% of Pelicanites that need it :D

Im a guy so.....i dont blow..... I lick.

Right, but of course, if would not be available to the average DIY guy and would be so top secret that non-disclosure documents would be required! :D

I was thinking the same thing!!

If you are not going to stop at your own garage, do you take that big fan with you and a long extension cord?

This is correct, my 993 does have a temp sensor in the engine bay and will run the heater blower for 20 minutes after shut down if it gets hot enough back there. Flapper in the heater tube dumps the air back down over the cylinders.

No, but hopefully you park outside where there is a breeze that will do exactly that. In my garage the only breeze is one I create.

Heat soak is real even if you refuse to admit it.

In the summer, I'm running just over 200 degrees and I think that is a tad high.

My operation. Seriously calm down "go-pedal" activity for a few miles prior to destination.

If it's a hot day 85+, i open the engine lid...

Thats all.

Optimum operating temperatures range for oil is 210-220.

This is not a modern car and I run dino oil. Please post your references that the optimum temperature for "oil" is 210-220. I've read that above 190F oxidation becomes an issue.

I'm not sure what your "this is not a modern car" comment is referring to as I made no mention that the temps I noted were modern car specific, and believe it or not, I am well aware that the 911s that are the subject of this board are not modern automobiles.

As far as my references are concerned, that number is based upon 30+ years of air cooled, and water cooled, engine experience, much of it in a motorcycle racing and aircraft environment, which has included working closely with many master engine builders . . . 210-220 is considered by most, if not all, to be the optimal temperature range.

Whoever claimed that over 190 is too hot simply did not know what they were talking about.

Every engine builder I know agrees with this 210 is the sweet spot for flow and lubrication.
Maybe the poster was thinking about water temps.

Yep, and 210+ helps to "burn off" contaminates such as water and fuel.

Oxidation happens long before 210. His name is Mark Barnes

http://www.midtownoil.com/downloads/What%20Is%20Oxidation%20In%20Lubricating%20Oil.pdf

Indeed it does - the oxidative process is happening all the time (including at room temperature).

That article is interesting, but like many such articles relating to oil, its claims are based on theory without offering definitive, real world test data. For example, where is the proof that the oxidation that occurs at oil temperatures above 210 does any harm to an engine that undergoes reasonable oil change intervals? And which is worse, accelerated oxidation of the oil, or running the oil at a temperature too low to remove water and fuel contamination (the article does not address this at all)?