Pelican Parts Forums - Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)

- Porsche 911 Technical Forum (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/)

- - Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/772278-cheap-easy-ato-fuse-block-installation.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by donporfi (Post 7666836)

To avoid the red wire loops you can make a copper bridge like this one:
(this one is a dummy just to show you how I think it should look like, I would use a copper strip of 18 or 20 gage.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379737331.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379737356.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379737382.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379737406.jpg

With those copper bridges I would be careful to use thick enough copper to carry the current load. Could you not use a straight piece of copper and just bend it to make bridges to go over the insulation barriers between the circuits?

There are tinned brass jumpers made for terminal blocks I use a lot in the industry. I'll take a look and see which ones fit the best for these next week some time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 7666883)

30 amps per fuse circuit.
GEP Power Products - ATO Blade Type Fuse Panels

With the GEP Fuse Panels you could use these jumpers. They seem to have the same spacing between th slots for the screws, 0.438". And you could use multiples if you want to bridge more than 2 circuits:

Molex Incorporated - 38002-1478 - Terminal Block Accessories - Jumpers / Bridges - Allied Electronics

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379743890.jpg

Nice find Porwolf, exactly what I was talking about. (Except mine are squared off on top)

One other jumper option would be to file the insulation barriers and use a straight strip of copper with holes to fit the screws.

You made me look Don...:cool:
Just pop the segment off and connect them internally. They come off the base really easily with a small flat blade screwdriver.
Each screw terminal segment then pops right out.
May need to do a little fab work but it would be hidden... Very stealthy mod!:D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379746936.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 7666933)

Great idea!

Dennis
I have not found the way to put the jumper internally. The only way I was thinking is to put the straight jumper with holes and use nuts to hold it in place but it must be screwed after the cable is secured.

The other concern to use this type of fuse block is the total amperage that it can handle as a whole unit. I remember somebody mentioned it in another post.

30 amps per fuse, I posted it and a link to the manufacturer earlier at the bottom of the first page.
Just exploring options, perhaps the manufacturer has linked terminals to insert in the cover for this product.
I was thinking I could waste/trash a segment working on a solution as I don't need all 24 fuse positions for my car. 21 gives me a few spares on my zero optioned '78.
I bought 2 12 piece blocks a few weeks ago. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by donporfi (Post 7666947)

The total amperage is not as important as how good the conductors are in all thel the segments, including the fuses. If there is minimal voltage drop then there is minimal heat generated. It probably would be best not to use the wire ends to connect to the screw terminals but crimp-on ring connectors as seen in post 17.

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 7666954)

The GEP catalog says: "Inquire at factory about bussed options". Timmy, have you asked them?

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 7666883)

30 amps per fuse circuit.
GEP Power Products - ATO Blade Type Fuse Panels

diifficult to find fuse blocks with that high of a current rating, that are such a close fit....excellent find.

regards,
Al

How about these 30A jumpers from Amazon...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379776160.jpg
Blue Sea 9217 Jumper Terminal 2500 Series,
5 per packet, nickel plated brass rated at 30A,
$6.80/pkt, O.O.S. at the moment.

Quote:

<div class="pre-quote">
Quote de <strong>timmy2</strong>
</div>

<div class="post-quote">
<div style="font-style:italic">30 amps per fuse, I posted it and a link to the manufacturer earlier at the bottom of the first page.<br>
Just exploring options, perhaps the manufacturer has linked terminals to insert in the cover for this product.</div>
</div>The GEP catalog says: "Inquire at factory about bussed options". Timmy, have you asked them?

I have not talked to the factory, as the OP noted they only want to supply in bulk so
I guess calling their distributor Chief Enterprises would be the best bet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Algernon (Post 7667189)

Would those not raise the height of the panel and impact closing your cover?

Can anyone comment on how effective this project has been to wake up things that haven't worked for a while? It seems like a no brainer at this price, I'm adding it to the winter projects!

Fuse load rating?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Algernon (Post 7664224)

I found a cheap and easy replacement for the old corroding Porsche fuses. I just replaced my 21 way fuse block with an ATO block. They are available in 6, 9, 12 and 15 way, but only had 6 and 15 in stock recently.
They fit almost exactly in place of the old blocks - even the original metric screws were used after I slightly enlarged the holes in the new blocks.The new blocks are the same width and slightly shorter than original ones. I think 15 and 9 way would probably fit, if extra fuses were needed. I have 2 spare places as I only needed 2 fuses to drive the 4 headlight relays.
These panels accept wires under a clamp with Torx T15 screw head.
The original Porsche wire ends in the fuse box have small brass tubes crimped on them and these slip easily under the new clamps. Except for a few really thick red wires. For each of these, I separated the wire strands into 2 groups, and fed them to either side of the screw clamps.
With the ATO fuses in place, the new blocks are about 1/10 inch too tall for the fuse cover to fit!! But the metal tabs at the bottom edge of the box can be bent upwards by that much, so the cover can fit perfectly after all!!
I recorded and carefully marked each wire before disconnecting it, took about an hour.
Then replaced the block and reconnected the wires. Took about another hour, mainly because of the thick wires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379609719.jpg
The blocks are part number FP-ATO-S06, FP-ATO-S15, priced at $5.58 and $21.87
They are made by GEP Power Products, but sold by them only in huge quantities!
They are distributed by Chief Enterprises, in Elmhurst, IL. in single quantities, and accept phone orders on 1-800-831-7294 or 630-530-1224.
I found them very obliging. (I have no connection to this firm).
So for 2 hours work and $30 this is a great improvement. Enjoy!

Just curious, what is the individual and combined fuse load rating for these blocks? Often, a block might be able to take a 30 amp fuse in one position but the combined load rating might only be 60 amps (for example). Since some of the 911 fuse panels will use 2, 3 or more 25 amp fuses in consecutive slots it might be overloading the panels safe capacity. Something to consider.

Jumper strips......

Quote:

Originally Posted by porwolf (Post 7666890)

Leaving the jumper strips exposed/not insulated might not be a good idea. Too easy to cause a short! Maybe a dip in some liquid plastic tool handle material would fix the problem?

When I posted this concern:
"The other concern to use this type of fuse block is the total amperage that it can handle as a whole unit. I remember somebody mentioned it in another post."

I was trying to remember Fred Cook's comment in another post:

"Just curious, what is the individual and combined fuse load rating for these blocks? Often, a block might be able to take a 30 amp fuse in one position but the combined load rating might only be 60 amps (for example). Since some of the 911 fuse panels will use 2, 3 or more 25 amp fuses in consecutive slots it might be overloading the panels safe capacity. Something to consider."

Now regarding the exposed jumper strips, the original Porsche fuse blocks had some exposed jumpers. But the idea of painting the exposed metal with Plastidip or something similar is a very good idea.

Exposed jumper in origial fuseblock
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866077.jpg