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Now I found a way of using a jumper where it is not exposed, very similar to the original fuse block
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866787.jpg Use a jumper like this one, of the proper thickness , the originals are about 0.025 inch thick about 22gage, to be safe a 20 gage would be better. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866422.jpg Screw this jumper from the underside of the fuseblock http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866562.jpg The fuse block will look like this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866664.jpg Use a nut and a washer to lock the wire http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379866710.jpg |
A comparison of the size and height of the original fuseblock and the atc/ato one
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379867166.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379867250.jpg |
Other way to use a jumper that is not exposed
Use a jumper like this one of the proper thickness 22 or 20 gage. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379867510.jpg File this part from the upper arrows to the lower arrows. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379867745.jpg Put the jumper and should lok like this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379867834.jpg |
I fabricated a jumper with a thickness of 0.035 inch and tried it in the fuseblock.
But I found that there is an interference and it will not close. This is the jumper I fabricated http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379884802.jpg Installed looks like this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379884877.jpg And I think the interference is in this area http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379885062.jpg I made a notch and it did not work, I will keep trying to solve this. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379885120.jpg |
Great ideas and great thread guys. I am going to incorporate this in to my RST build.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/748639-evolution-carrera-rst.html Thanks and cheers, |
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This looks really neat and 0.2 inches width should handle 25A current load! Did you try it on the top side? If so, you could dispense with the square nuts? This would look like the most elegant solution, even having to remove the fillets between adjacent screws. Porwolf, those Allied/Molex links are only rated at 15A - pity! |
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Link?
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The problem with stacking them up is that you could end with 4 jumpers in one screw. If you check there is one place where four spaces are linked together, that would mean that in the middle two spaces you would have four jumpers. Same problem where there are three linked together.
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Cut these down to suit for as many positions as needed. There is plenty of room in this installation for jumpers that are visible.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1379914855.jpg 600RJ 06 - MARATHON - TERMINAL BLOCK JUMPER, 6WAY, 9 | Newark |
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timmy2
Those will not fit this type of fuse block. The pitch spacing of the fuse block is aprox. 12 mm, the Marathon jumpers have a 9.5mm pitch spacing. And between each three blocks the spacing is different about 11mm. But keep looking, probably with the help of everybody interested we will find a suitable solution. |
Once someone comes up with a good way to do this they can make up a bunch that are plug-n-play and sell them as kits!
:D |
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I never expected this level of interest, but if we can collectively find an optimal solution, we all gain! |
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donporfi, where did you get your "Made in USA" terminal blocks?
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Bought those here
Fuse Blocks - Power |
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