Dropping an engine- Is it really that difficult?
 

After twenty years of faithful service, I think my old girl (79SC) needs a top end and a clutch. I'm a fairly good amateur mechanic and always thought I would be able to handle the job myself but after reading threads on this forum, I'm not so sure. Is the top end of a Porsche engine that much more complicated than other engines? I would like to maintain the pride one gets from doing it oneself, but I don't want a disaster on my hands.

I watched my Dad drop numerous VW engines. First he would lower the engine as far as he could. Then my brother and I would grab the bumper, lift the rear of the car and roll it forward until it cleared the engine. Does this method not work for a Porsche? I can't justify laying out a bunch of cash for jacks that I'll probably use for one project. Also, someone mentioned special tools needed for timing chain alignment, are they really necessary? Are there any other special tools needed for the job besides the basic tools found in most armature mechanic's toolbox?

Thanks for any advice.

Gary

You and your brother no doubt won the Feats of Strength on every Festivus.

Yes, if you and your brother are strong enough, you could lower the 911 engine as low as possible, and then you guys could lift the car up and over the engine.

As the big box home improvement ad goes, "You can do it, we can help." I'm in the middle of tear-down with my engine in complete bits. I'm pretty handy but this is a little daunting. I went ahead and tackled it mainly because of this site. I figure I can get just about any question answered here with color pictures and step by step instructions. If it can be done to these cars, someone here has done it. I am blazing no trails here.

As for special tools, I just tore down my engine. I can tell you that you won't need the crow's foot and the special socket for tear-down but you will indeed need them to tighten that big freaking nut upon reassembly. You will also need a way to measure the timing: Z block and dial gage. I just posted in the classifieds and someone loaned me the tools. I have the return box all ready to go in case he needs it back before I finish. I bought a set of stud removers. I also got an engine stand and yoke but a nice big bench would do just as well. I've been picking up this stuff over a long time and none of it was expensive.

You will need a good floor jack and jack stands. 911's weigh a bit more than bugs.

Study Wayne's and/or Bruce's book. Decide what below you can do without.

Waynes engine book
Bruce Anderson's performance handbook
Clutch Alignment Pin
Inside micrometers or
Telescoping gauges with outside micrometers
Dial indicator with Z block and interchangeable shaft pins
Valve lash adjustment 0.004" blade
Feeler gauges for ring gap and end gap
Sprocket offset tool.
Big Crowsfoot wrench
Special cam holding socket
Two big honkin 1/2 drive breaker bars
Sprocket/layshaft offset measurement tool
Depth micrometer or dial calipers that measure depth.
Good torque wrench
GOOD quality wrenches and sockets - Craftsman or better
Loctite 574
Timing light
Fuel gauges
CO sniffer
Long 3mm wrench for AF mixture
Ring compressor
Two stretch bolts and plastigage for checking one rod bearing
Engine yolk
Engine stand

Gary,
What is your location. Perhaps others are close by to lend a hand/tools?

Thor

+1 Add to the list.

Yea, jack stands are not an option (unless you have a lift.) ;)

There are no hand holds for a 911 that a couple of very strong men can use. I use my jack stands all the time. I can't imagine working on a 911 without 4 good jack-stands.

$99 motorcycle jack was good enough for me. Yes drop the engine first then raise the car up.. I used stacks of wood. Sorry can't help you on the top end department...yet. Excuse the red paint (stupid Chevy mechanic did that).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381438380.jpg

Thanks Thor,
I,m in Omaha. Any help would be great.

Gary

Don't kill yourself to save a few bucks. No jack stands? Are you serious?

You are dealing with an engine that is arguably "exotic" given the parts explosion.

You are also GROSSLY underestimating the task.

I think you and your pal have not a clue of how to pull this off and I am sensing that you will not put the time into required due diligence.

You will **** this up, BIG TIME. Guaranteed, unless you change your mindset.

Mark my words.

Have a nice evening.

Dropped mine for the first time this Tuesday which took me 2 hrs start to finish. I lowered mine on to 4x4's and then jacked the car up and slid her out.

looks good , but how did you jack up the car once you dropped the engine ? is there a good spot to jack up with the engine dropped ?

I placed my Jack right under where the shift tube exits at the end of the floorpan. I used a 2' block of wood to run along the bottom edge and it went up without issue.

would have been cool to have a pic of that because you solved the dillema i thougt about a lot .. by the time you got the car high enough to drop the engine it would be at such a severe angle it would be a nightmare.

Your method solves this.

You have to watch Bob. Sometimes he is too subtle. We keep telling him he needs to learn to speak up and be direct. Maybe one day he'll learn.

Maybe there is a 12 step program.........

However, I see big time disaster in this situation. Won't spring for jack stands and discounts chain/sprocket alignment as if it were fashion.

Perhaps cam timing and valve adjustment could also be bypassed.

This guy is the the future PO we see other people talking trash about.

No jack stands. No chance.

Purchase some good jack stands, and a good floor jack. A DIY Porsche owner will always need these. Like, brake jobs, new clutch, ect... Drop the engine-trans as a unit, load it in a trunk or a trailer and take it to a somebody reputable, that does this for their lively hood, what I did when I found broke head studs, and very happy I did. You will save $$ in just the beer it would cost.

Just like buying tools, buy cheap buy twice ;)