Pelican Parts Forums - Getting a PPI doesn't seem realistic or possible.

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I did a survey on this forum awhile back -- search for it. Everyone screams ppi. About 80% of the respondents -- over 200 if I recall -- didn't get one before buying.

IMO, if you drive the car, it's solid , and it speaks to you, go for it.

If you can't drive the car, we'll...patience, as others have said, helps...otherwise take a shot at it. yolo!

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonett43 (Post 7705735)

A few phrases that really matter....

You are buying the seller more than buying the car.
If you ever sell.....the place you make your money is by buying it well.
Buy the best car you can find and afford, it is money well spent to spend a little more upfront and not have a list of projects when you first bring the thing home.

Good luck.

Very well said.
These are exactly 3 things I have followed when buying anything used/collectible.

This has become a thread full of good wisdom,
and is a worthwhile read for anyone about to plunge into the buying market.

Quote:

Originally Posted by porschenut (Post 7705338)

Look, it's simple.

2. Except in extreme cases, the purpose of a PPI is to determine how much, if any, should be marked down off of the ALREADY NEGOTIATED PRICE. You do not pay for a PPI until you and the seller have agreed on a price first, and you agree that if anything significant is found that the price can be renegotiated. If the shop says it needs a $10k engine overhaul, then ask if the seller will take $10k less. If he says no, walk away. If the shop says it needs $500 for this or that, then just knock off $500 from your agreed price and write him the check. The point is, you do not get a PPI until you have decided you want the car and agreed on a price.

I disagree with this, many of these cars are 20+ years old, you must expect some issues in cars of this age. You should expect some small issues. Anything major (or in my current sales experience that would require a Roadworthy that is required on transfer) then you discuss price changes. I am fixing sticking brake calipers now at my (the sellers cost)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonett43 (Post 7705735)

I'm not sure this is the best approach, but I'll tell you a little story about a car I sold.

The car wasn't really for sale, but a guy made an offer to me that was good for both of us. He wanted to prove that he was for real, and said, "I'll write you a check for $1000, when it clears, bring it (an hour away) for a ppi, to a well respected shop. If it uncovers something we haven't discussed, that is significant (low compression, broken head studs) and I decide I want to cancel the deal, you shall refund $800 of the $1000, keeping the $200 for you time".

I think his $200 was fairly low, would have liked to see more like $500, but I do believe the arrangement was fair. I feel that the $1000 showed good-faith interest in a really nice car, yet was too high to be considered 'non-refundable'

Recently when buying a car, I needed a week to sort out funds, so I gave $500 non-refundable deposit, plus another $5000 immediately after the ppi, with the rest of the funds coming a week later after the money got moved around.....again, fair to the seller and buyer.

Whatever the case, a PPI is really essential, getting some insight into the seller is probably more important than the car itself....bought one car where the seller never really was telling the truth, found bent rims, tires that had been driven-on flat, service records that went missing at the last minute.....but the car was a bargain, so I overlooked a lot of that stuff.

A few phrases that really matter....

You are buying the seller more than buying the car.

If you ever sell.....the place you make your money is by buying it well.

Buy the best car you can find and afford, it is money well spent to spend a little more upfront and not have a list of projects when you first bring the thing home.

Good luck.

I personally would never make a deposit that was non-refundable if the PPI showed major things that the seller didn't disclose. I don't feel I owe the seller for not telling me the car needs a 5-8k top end or has a bad respray.

I flew from Canada down to Vegas with no return tickets and a hand full of cash to buy mine!!! That's a leap of faith!! I had to put some faith in an auto broker and take his word that the results of the inspection he showed me were legit. I am so glad I took the leap! There are some small issues with the car but for the price I paid its no big deal. That trip home was GREAT!!!!!:D

I know it is derailing the topic but does anyone know a good shop to do a PPI around NYC?
Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by McLovin (Post 7704531)

I never get a PPI. That's not my method.

I show up with cash, inspect the car myself for a half hour, take it for a drive, look over the title and paperwork, and then do a quick and easy, under market value deal with the seller.

I've found that tends to give sellers quite a bit of "flexibility" in price.

I do the same, show up with cash. Crawl under the car, inspect everything with a fine toothed comb, talk to the seller etc. I've found that a no PPI cash deal is the key to under market value car purchasing. People are more willing to negotiate when the see the money, and many people are afraid of the PPI. Especially if the car has been sitting, the seller may be concerned that they'll have to spend more money on a car they already don't drive just to sell it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by asalcedo (Post 7882039)

I know it is derailing the topic but does anyone know a good shop to do a PPI around NYC?
Thanks in advance.

Bill Rudtner in Freeport on LI.

Rudtners Racing : 16 St Johns Pl, Freeport, NY 11520, United States
(516) 378-8769

I found my car on cars.com. It was 500 miles away. I drove there to check out the car and have a PPI done.

The most compelling part of the PPI I had done prior to purchasing my Carrera: the mechanic offered to test drive the car and invited me to ride along. Drove the living **** out of car and scared the crap out of me. He said, "I've driven a lot of 911s, this is a good one." I was sold.

The car had already failed the leak down test in one cylinder.

The shop owner recommended the owner drive the car a few times and retest it.

So that's what happened. A week later I got a fax from the shop indicating the second leak down passed. I bought the car a few weeks later.

Six years, 3 track days (one was the nurburgring), sustained 150+ mph autobahn drives and 25k total miles, I've had no serious problems with the car and it still a blast to drive.

Good luck!