Changing Brake Fluid Questions

[Fishcop]

I've just ordered 4 caliper rebuild kits and new brake lines (through Pelican ) after finding that my 2 ton 4x4 pulls up faster than my 69T. A good close inspection indicates that it has been a very long time (if at all) since these items were serviced. So my questions start like this:

Do I drain all the brake fluid from the system before I begin?

Are there any special tools required to rebuild the front S alloy callipers and rear M's?

What are the respective differences between the "power bleeders" on the market, and do I need one? (I have a wife )

Should I have read Waynes book before posting?

Are Pagid "blue" pads a suitable replacement for street use?

Can anybody offer me any other pointers before I start?

Thanks Everyone

[Early_S_Man]

John,

An old catalog said the Pagid Blue pads were a good street/autocross pad.

Here is an old thread with my recommended rebuild and flushing tips:

Redoing Brakes

[911pcars]

You may receive slightly different opinions on this procedure, but I do it this way:

Drain all the old fluid out of the system. You don't want to contaminate the rebuilt calipers with old fluid. Alternatively, you could rebuild the rear calipers first to verify you're doing things correctly, in which case use some cheap fluid to flush/bleed the system before doing the fronts.

You shouldn't need any special hand tools. The pistons are installed in a certain orientation (see the factory or Wayne's book). You can construct a cardboard template to replicate the tool needed for the installed angle.

Use compressed air to force the pistons out and shop towels to minimize fluid spray over the paint job. Remove any body part (yours) between opposing pistons as you apply air pressure to remove them from the caliper. Don't get fluid in your eyes. More importantly, don't get it on any painted surface. You may wish to have a bucket of clean water .... just in case.

Use 600 grit wet/dry paper or finer to remove any deposits from the scratch-free piston cylinders. Clean the caliper with soap and hot water; no petroleum products. Dry with clean compressed air. Assemble with clean brake fluid, rubber lube or brake paste and grease-free hands.

I gravity bleed with a length of nylon tubing attached to each bleed screw. Others will suggest a commercial pressure bleeder or a homemade pressurizer using the spare tire and tire valve stem on the MC cap. Your choice.

About a pint of high quality brake fluid minimum. A quart should be safe. Here's a list of brands from which to choose:
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/brakefluid.htm
Some guys like to alternate between ATE gold, then blue to verify which is old vs new fluid. Good fluid (except for SRF) is relatively cheap. Cheap fluid is NG.

Don't overstroke the MC if you manual bleed the system, otherwise you get to replace it too.

Axis Metal Masters are great for the street. Cheap too. Pagids may be overkill for the boulevards.

BTW, I'm glad you're replacing the flex hoses too.

There's probably more I forgot,
Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[Fishcop]

Thanks Gents,

I just got home from work and read Wayne's book regarding the subject, glad I bought that book. Thankyou for the advice and links Sherwood/Warren.

I think I'm now prepared to tackle the job this weekend, I just have to pick up a flare nut wrench....what is the correct size?

I'll take some photos as I go in-case anyone is interested too.

Cheers