86 tensioner pipe oil leak

[Storage Man]

All, I've got a bit of a nasty oil leak on this pipe right at this nut..strange place for a leak.




I see our host sells the replacement. 930 107 347 02
But not sure if this is something I should tackle myself. If not I will need to flat bed the car I think.
Does the oil need to be bled from the system before removal?

All input welcome!

[Storage Man]

Ut oh. Put a wrench on it and it's worse now. Help...

[timmy2]

No need to drain the oil, just change it. Take a good look at the mating surface for distortion before installing the new pipe.

[Storage Man]

Thanks Dennis

Am I correct in thinking this is the correct part number for the below line?
930 107 347 02

[timmy2]

According to Pelican it is the left side oiler line for the tensioner.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=911M&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=930+107+347+02

[john walker's workshop]

i don't see a support arm and clamp on that line.

[Storage Man]

HI John,

Thanks for pointing this out. there was no clamp or support on the line when i removed it....could this have caused the leak?

[db_cooper]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

i don't see a support arm and clamp on that line.

Yep...needs that support (Porsche updated parts) or the new oil line may crack too..although 25 years is pretty good on the old one.

Available from our host.

Not too expensive..do both right and left while you are in there..lots of bits to buy.

1986 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Oil Circulation - Page 7

[Storage Man]

Hi DB,

Thanks, yep ordered them all. In my car I have the heater duct directly in front of the bolt section of the support.
I really hope I don't have to remove that stainless section to install the support...????

This would mean loosening the bolts to the pre muffler and freeing up the whole exhaust system to instal it.

Any thoughts?

[db_cooper]

On my 1986 it was easy to do the driver's side support (did it years ago)..it is a little fiddly..I recall removing the big plastic air duct from above and loosing to rear engine tin tray..not a big deal. Most of the repair can be done from above with the fitting on the tensioner being done from below. The passenger side was more difficult..had to loosen the A/C compressor bracket to get back there. I don't think the exhaust is removed..I did not remove mine.

I did change the oil feed lines to the cam towers at the same time..they will leak too when they get old..another "while you are in there" task.

[Storage Man]

Hey DB
Thanks for the in site on this. I'll be getting the parts today and do the instal and report back.

[Storage Man]

Hi Db,
I have the support.
What connection is this opposite the clamp side?

Quote de john walker's workshop

i don't see a support arm and clamp on that line.

Yep...needs that support (Porsche updated parts) or the new oil line may crack too..although 25 years is pretty good on the old one.



Available from our host.



Not too expensive..do both right and left while you are in there..lots of bits to buy.



1986 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Oil Circulation - Page 7

[Storage Man]

Originally Posted by db_cooper

On my 1986 it was easy to do the driver's side support (did it years ago)..it is a little fiddly..I recall removing the big plastic air duct from above and loosing to rear engine tin tray..not a big deal. Most of the repair can be done from above with the fitting on the tensioner being done from below. The passenger side was more difficult..had to loosen the A/C compressor bracket to get back there. I don't think the exhaust is removed..I did not remove mine.

I did change the oil feed lines to the cam towers at the same time..they will leak too when they get old..another "while you are in there" task.

Hey DB, any photos of the passenger side support handy?

[db_cooper]

See if this helps, from our host in the tech articles.

[Storage Man]

awesome...thanks!!

[Walt Fricke]

When you get the tensioner line off, clean it up with brake fluid and test it. The most likely place for a crack is down at the bottom, by the banjo. Coat with soapy water, and use your mouth and fingers.

The next most likely place would be up top, where the fatter end tip sits behind the nut. Drop the nut down to see if you get bubbles there.

You may find that it is not broken.

When tightening these nuts you ought to counterhold the nut-like fitting on the main line. If you don't, you can stress that line, and it can crack where it is attached to the nut-like fitting. It is possible you may need to replace that line also.

I suppose the easiest way for you to see, if you can't find a leak on the old tensioner line, is put on your new line and see (because you will have cleaned up all the leaked oil) if you still have a leak.

An alternative would be a cap nut over the tensioner line. You can run the engine gently for a while with no oil to the tensioner. But I don't know what the specs on such a cap nut would be, if they even exist.

If you find you want to take the car to a shop, that leak you have doesn't look like it would be a problem for a drive of some modest distance.