83 SC - Iginition Switch Issue

[83_Silberpfeil]

Hello --- My 83 SC ignition switch failed.

Upon entering the car I inserted the key into the ignition switch. Then, I turned it all the way to the right/CW and the starter activated and engine began to turn over. When I released the key, the engine stopped.

Then, all instrument lights, radio, fuel pump, etc kept going.

I attempted to restart, but nothing happened. No starter, no engine.

Even after I removed the key, the instrument lights, radio, fuel pump etc still kept going. Finally disengaged the battery.

The ignition switch felt very strange afterwards ---- when I attempted a restart, there was no resistance or spring back action when I turned the key CW/right.

Anyone have similar experience? Could this be just the electrical portion of the ignition switch ($110) or does it sound like the entire unit ($much more+)?

Thanks!

[brads911sc]

If you remove the unit from dash, you can easily test the electrical portion without the entire locking mechanism attached. My guess is that its the whole thing, but its worth further exploration due to the cost of the entire unit.

[ossiblue]

Yes, it sounds like the mechanical portion of the switch has failed. The key turns a flat metal pin that fits into a slot in the plastic, electrical portion and it is the electrical part that has the spring loaded resistance to the start position. You turned the key all the way to the right, connecting all circuits of the ignition, then moved to the start position where the pin likely broke. That would cause the start circuit to immediately release, and the electrical switch to spring back to the "running" position--all electrical is on. With the pin broken, turning the key will do nothing and the ignition remains in the "running" position.

The above is not absolutely certain, just my educated guess given your description and my experience with these switches. Removing the entire switch will tell you all you need to know. The mechanical part is expensive, the electrical part relatively cheap.

You can unplug the connector at the rear of the switch to disconnect all electrical and shut it down while you wait to find a replacement mechanical switch. If you can successfully remove just the electrical portion from the back of the switch (it's a PITA but doable) you can just plug that into the wiring and start your car with a flat blade screw driver.

[armand80sc]

Agree with the two posters above. You'll need to seperate the electrical portion from the mechanical and test it. It is a PITA to remove working upside down underneath the dash, but doable with some patience. Being flexible and not having any back problems helps
I had similar problem with the ignition switch and In my case the mechanical portion was bad.
If that ends up being the case - I would look in the classifieds section for a good second hand unit.
It should cost you no more than $150. A new ignition switch mechanism is upwards of $600.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks to Armand, ossiblue, and brads for chiming in. Very helpful info!
Your assessments are SPOT ON! The pin on the mechanical portion (that connects to the electrical) broke off! It's a little 'aluminum tab' that broke off.

Ossiblue, your explanation of how the elec/mech portions work together is excellent. When I got old broken part back from the shop, it painted the picture you described with words. I'll post pix here shortly.

I ended up going with a spank'n new ignition assembly --- $$$$$.

My problem now is that I have an ignition key and a separate key for everything else. I am going to try to open up the old ignition key tumbler and try to use the 'wafers' to mod the original door locks to match the new key.

Thanks again to everyone here!

[gtc]

I went through this exact same problem. I chose to have a locksmith re-key the new ignition to my old key, rather than having to change the other 4 locks to match the new ignition key.