I agree that this would be difficult with the engine in place.

Replacing the "U" shaped seal may not be too bad depending on what kind of accessories you have installed (A/C, heater blower, etc).

Regarding the front seal, if you have a carburetor or MFI intake, you might be able to replace it. If you have CIS or DME, I don't think you'll be able to do it from the top - perhaps from underneath with a partial drop.

LenS:

Its a engine out job.

If you do drop the engine, get a Line of Credit because once the engine is out, the "While Your In There" syndrome will take over :D:):D

Thanks all! I suspected as much. I am contemplating a partial drop to replace this seal as well as the insulation behind the engine. Car is disassembled for paint and I knew I was on that slippery slope after realizing my parts spreadsheet was up to seventy line items!

Keeping a Spreadsheet!!!
 

Bad LenS badddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd ;)

I have a "Comments" column filled in with things like "Is this Really Necessary?" The answer is yes if the effort to clean/restore it is trumped by the reasonable cost of just buying a new part...

Yes, I am crazy...

I just replaced this this past winter, the original one I pulled out was dried hard and cracked near the turbo but not charred or anything. The cracking pattern matched exactly where the intercooler bracket and cab damper would have squeezed past on an engine drop.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410400539.jpg

If the purpose is to seal air then it was still doing it's job even though it was dried out so I replaced with the full wrap around version-no cutout as others have mentioned. If that was good enough for the last 26 years. . .

I used a flathead screwdriver to fit the new one in, tried to slide it but only got it a few inches and decided I'd never make it around the corner. Besides you can align it perfectly to match at each end and for the corners etc. and not have to trim it like someone else mentioned. The design seems maniacally concerned about hot air not getting by so I didn't want to trim it and wanted it to line up perfectly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410401457.jpg


The new seal goes right into the groove, save the KY for more important things ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410401552.jpg

Speaking about preventing air leaking by, does anybody else have these wads of black hard putty in the corners? I'm sure they were stock on my 88 to seal out the possibility of a tiny bit of air leakage by the tray but don't see it on any diagrams-I just left them there when I put the engine back in. Anybody else have them?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410401739.jpg

Hi reachme:
I have a few questions regarding the U-Shaped seal that you received without the cut-out:
1. Which part number did you order?
2. When did you order it?
3. Did you order it from our host?

I need to re-order one of these soon as it is almost time for me to install the engine, but I was concerned about receiving the wrong (cut-out) part again.

Also, regarding the black putty in the corners, yes my car has that as well.

frankc,
I order a lot from our host but give first crack to my local Porsche air cooled mechanic. There are things I don't want to do/don't have time and I want to make sure he stays around even if I don't give him the service business. As a pro he has much more experience than I ever will to fit and quality changes so the markup is a small price to pay in my book for what I get. Parts is a profession all it's own.

So unfortunately I only have the Porsche part # - not the source.
I ordered it last Nov.-Dec.

If you called a local independent, or dealer and explained to the parts counter I'm sure they could take care of you. Sorry I can't save you that time.

To provide some closure on the cut-out issue I had with U-Shaped seal I received (and returned). If you notice our host offers three options to order part number 911-504-111-02:

911-504-111-02-OEM
911-504-111-02-INT
911-504-111-02-M136

The -OEM part is the genuine Porsche part (and priced accordingly). The -INT and -M136 parts are both "OEM" parts, but from different suppliers. Since the two OEM parts are presumably from the same manufacturer, but the M136 was $17 less, I ordered M136 previously, but as I mentioned, that seal had the cut-out.

Thinking that the issue might be with the M136 supplier, I ordered the INT part last week, and was pleased to see that the seal did NOT have the cut-out when it arrived yesterday.

Which way is up?
 

Apologies for reviving an old thread...

In this picture, which side of the engine compartment seal faces up?

Thanks!

Bumping this thread - any ideas? Thanks.

Not sure but I am about too tackle this for my 3.6 converted '75. I have the same question you do....and am thinking of trying to replace the tins and this seal without removing the engine? Think it's possible?

My engine is out. I can’t believe there is any way to do this job with the engine in place. I installed the shorter piece yesterday while seated in the engine bay. Tedious, and that was with full access.

I just finished mine. Easy job with the motor out.

I did a lot of looking at photos and decided that the the upper left edge/lip in 'garment's' photo is up. This way the seal attitude is slightly downward, and as the engine moves up into place, the tin will compress against the seal. If you put it the other way it's attitude is upward and the seal will be less effective, perhaps not at all.

Another doubt/area of debate is whether to split the seal with one side of the flap above the tin and the other under. I don't have the motor back in yet but intend to keep both flaps above.

Cheers....