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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
Posts: 2,119
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How do you replace the seal between the body and engine tin?
My engine is out and the rubber seal that seals the gap between the body and the engine tin is stiff and torn. Replacement seals are not too expensive.
What is the right way to install the new seals? It looks like there is a groove the seal fits into. But what hold the seal in? Do I have to remove clips or something? Is there a particular order? I searched for related threads, but I could not find anything. Help would be appreciated.
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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The seals fit in the groove no adhesive necessary. I use tire lube and a plastic flat bar used for interior work to push the seals in place it's a real pain and takes patience and strong fingers.
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Wear gloves!!!
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
On the big fat long rubber pieces that fit in the rocker panels, the factory says to use glycerin. I have used KY and that works well. I also drop the strips in hot water for 15 minutes to soften them up. No problems - still a pain - but just grunt work. The long strips push in from one end in my scenario. The more I think about you don't have that option in the engine compartment so the interior tool k mentions may be the trick.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
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So, it has to flex to get in the groove.
Is it one piece, folded in half? Or is it two flaps bonded to a round bead? Flat tool for interior? Can I get that at the local parts store? BTW, thanks for the fast replies!
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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French Import
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Quote:
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Gilles & Kathy Happiness is not having a Porsche in the garage... Happiness is having a Porsche on the road! ![]() 86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet, 2011 BMW 1200RT, 03 Saab 93 Cabriolet, 06 MB E350 Estate |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
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Thanks for the tool link.
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tustin. CA
Posts: 1,287
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It's a rubber extrusion. Two flaps with kind of a bead along one edge that keys into the sheetmetal.
One tip, the 3 cars I have done these on all had the ends of the metal channel staked after the rubber was installed. You will want to slightly open up the metal at the end(s) to let the new seal slide in. I used large channel lock pliers to lightly re-stake/crimp after the new seal was installed. If anything, make the seals a little long as they will shrink some over time. Cooper |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Each seal is one piece that is split to straddle the engine tin. See photo for a cross-sectional view. ![]()
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'73 911T RoW (Project) '77 911S 2.7RS '76 914 2.0 Early911SReg #2945 |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Yes, our local version of HF sell them @ $5. $2.50 when on sale.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Take the time to straighten out any dents in the channels that the seal go into and clean the channel of any debris before starting and the seals will go in. It gets more difficult as you go as you have to pull the seal all the way though, it just takes a little time. As mentioned gloves are a good idea, there are a lot of sharp edges in there.
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-Wade 1972 Targa, nothing matching. Looking for motor 6124265 and transmission 7720299 |
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Location: Windsor, CT
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When you say, "straddle the engine tin", do you mean one flap on top, and the other one under the tin edge? That makes sense, but that was not how mine looked when i removed the engine. Engine had been pulled out by the PO.
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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That is the way.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
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Excellent. Now i can plan on doing this right. With new, flexible rubber, getting the flap under the tin has to be easier than 32 yr old rubber.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
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Quote:
1) mine are crimped about 1" on each end, 2) AND the seal extendeds about 1/2" past the metal channel. 3) Looks like they added a little bit of black mastic to seal the corner where the two seals meet together Only about 1/2 of the firewall seal was properly installed. The rest had both seal flaps stiining on top of the engine tin.
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Interestingly, the new replacement seal I purchased had the right half of the outer flap above the muffler (the section exposed to the heat) cut out (see photo). Perhaps this was causing an issue (burning rubber?) so they decided to simply remove that section, but it seems that of all places to seal, this is where you would want a good seal to avoid sucking in hot air to cool the engine. ![]()
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'73 911T RoW (Project) '77 911S 2.7RS '76 914 2.0 Early911SReg #2945 Last edited by frankc; 11-25-2013 at 07:21 PM.. |
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Danish 911S driver
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Denmark
Posts: 150
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I just did mine on my project. A brand new Porsche seal. There is one short part that goes towards the firewall and one long part, that goes the other 3/4 of the way. I did not use any glue or lubrication. Just put the lower part of the rubber ind the lower part of the u-shaped shin. Then I used a piece of shaped wood to press the top part in. It took me half an hour to do it all. No problem at all. No need to cut it in pieces. The rubber was about 1 inch too long, so I cut a bit off, when I reached the finish were the two halfes meet.
Good luck /Christian
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Christian 1972 911 S - 3.0 MFI in the making of an ST: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/733424-another-st-build-time-denmark.html |
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Location: Austin, TX
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Christian,
Did your new seal have a section cut out of it as shown in the picture I posted? The seal shown was purchased new and installed quite a while ago (I think the late 1980s), and I wonder if the seals sold now still have this section of the outer flap missing. I would prefer to have both flaps run the entire length (as was originally on my car).
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'73 911T RoW (Project) '77 911S 2.7RS '76 914 2.0 Early911SReg #2945 |
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Danish 911S driver
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Denmark
Posts: 150
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Quote:
No, there was nothing cut off. It was the same all the way around. I bought mine at a Porsche dealer the other week.
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Christian 1972 911 S - 3.0 MFI in the making of an ST: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/733424-another-st-build-time-denmark.html |
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