How do you replace the seal between the body and engine tin?

VFR750 · 11-24-2013, 02:15 PM

My engine is out and the rubber seal that seals the gap between the body and the engine tin is stiff and torn. Replacement seals are not too expensive.

What is the right way to install the new seals? It looks like there is a groove the seal fits into. But what hold the seal in? Do I have to remove clips or something? Is there a particular order?

I searched for related threads, but I could not find anything. Help would be appreciated.

kodioneill · kodioneill's Garage

The seals fit in the groove no adhesive necessary. I use tire lube and a plastic flat bar used for interior work to push the seals in place it's a real pain and takes patience and strong fingers.

mreid · 11-24-2013, 02:32 PM

Wear gloves!!!

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by kodioneill

The seals fit in the groove no adhesive necessary. I use tire lube ..............

I have never installed the engine seals. I don't have tire lube, but bet it works nicely.

On the big fat long rubber pieces that fit in the rocker panels, the factory says to use glycerin. I have used KY and that works well.

I also drop the strips in hot water for 15 minutes to soften them up. No problems - still a pain - but just grunt work.

The long strips push in from one end in my scenario. The more I think about you don't have that option in the engine compartment so the interior tool k mentions may be the trick.

VFR750 · 11-24-2013, 03:00 PM

So, it has to flex to get in the groove.

Is it one piece, folded in half? Or is it two flaps bonded to a round bead?

Flat tool for interior? Can I get that at the local parts store?

BTW, thanks for the fast replies!

Ronnie's.930 · 11-24-2013, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I have used KY and that works well.

Indeed it does!

zippy_gg · zippy_gg's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

So, it has to flex to get in the groove.

Is it one piece, folded in half? Or is it two flaps bonded to a round bead?

Flat tool for interior? Can I get that at the local parts store?

BTW, thanks for the fast replies!

From our host Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-ST9007

VFR750 · 11-24-2013, 04:16 PM

Thanks for the tool link.

Cooper911SC · 11-24-2013, 06:44 PM

It's a rubber extrusion. Two flaps with kind of a bead along one edge that keys into the sheetmetal.

One tip, the 3 cars I have done these on all had the ends of the metal channel staked after the rubber was installed.
You will want to slightly open up the metal at the end(s) to let the new seal slide in.

I used large channel lock pliers to lightly re-stake/crimp after the new seal was installed.

If anything, make the seals a little long as they will shrink some over time.

Cooper

frankc · 11-24-2013, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

Is it one piece, folded in half? Or is it two flaps bonded to a round bead?

There are two seals; a short one in the front that attaches under the cross member, and a longer one that forms a U-Shape along the sides and above the muffler.

Each seal is one piece that is split to straddle the engine tin. See photo for a cross-sectional view.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

...
Flat tool for interior? Can I get that at the local parts store?
...

Yes, our local version of HF sell them @ $5. $2.50 when on sale.

swade · swade's Garage

Take the time to straighten out any dents in the channels that the seal go into and clean the channel of any debris before starting and the seals will go in. It gets more difficult as you go as you have to pull the seal all the way though, it just takes a little time. As mentioned gloves are a good idea, there are a lot of sharp edges in there.

VFR750 · 11-25-2013, 03:01 AM

When you say, "straddle the engine tin", do you mean one flap on top, and the other one under the tin edge? That makes sense, but that was not how mine looked when i removed the engine. Engine had been pulled out by the PO.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

... do you mean one flap on top, and the other one under the tin edge?

That is the way.

VFR750 · 11-25-2013, 03:43 AM

Excellent. Now i can plan on doing this right. With new, flexible rubber, getting the flap under the tin has to be easier than 32 yr old rubber.

VFR750 · 11-25-2013, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cooper911SC

One tip, the 3 cars I have done these on all had the ends of the metal channel staked after the rubber was installed.
You will want to slightly open up the metal at the end(s) to let the new seal slide in.

I used large channel lock pliers to lightly re-stake/crimp after the new seal was installed.

If anything, make the seals a little long as they will shrink some over time.

Cooper

Cooper, I just looked, and:
1) mine are crimped about 1" on each end,
2) AND the seal extendeds about 1/2" past the metal channel.
3) Looks like they added a little bit of black mastic to seal the corner where the two seals meet together

Only about 1/2 of the firewall seal was properly installed. The rest had both seal flaps stiining on top of the engine tin.

frankc · 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VFR750

Excellent. Now i can plan on doing this right. With new, flexible rubber, getting the flap under the tin has to be easier than 32 yr old rubber.

If your seals are original you will likely find that there won't be much remaining to the rubber flap on the outside of the tin in the section above the muffler. The heat from the muffler destroys the rubber. When I replaced mine, what remained of that section mostly crumbled when I went to remove it.

Interestingly, the new replacement seal I purchased had the right half of the outer flap above the muffler (the section exposed to the heat) cut out (see photo). Perhaps this was causing an issue (burning rubber?) so they decided to simply remove that section, but it seems that of all places to seal, this is where you would want a good seal to avoid sucking in hot air to cool the engine.

Danish Dynamite · 11-25-2013, 08:18 PM

I just did mine on my project. A brand new Porsche seal. There is one short part that goes towards the firewall and one long part, that goes the other 3/4 of the way. I did not use any glue or lubrication. Just put the lower part of the rubber ind the lower part of the u-shaped shin. Then I used a piece of shaped wood to press the top part in. It took me half an hour to do it all. No problem at all. No need to cut it in pieces. The rubber was about 1 inch too long, so I cut a bit off, when I reached the finish were the two halfes meet.

Good luck

/Christian

frankc · 11-25-2013, 08:45 PM

Christian,

Did your new seal have a section cut out of it as shown in the picture I posted? The seal shown was purchased new and installed quite a while ago (I think the late 1980s), and I wonder if the seals sold now still have this section of the outer flap missing. I would prefer to have both flaps run the entire length (as was originally on my car).

Danish Dynamite · 11-25-2013, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankc

Christian,

Did your new seal have a section cut out of it as shown in the picture I posted? The seal shown was purchased new and installed quite a while ago (I think the late 1980s), and I wonder if the seals sold now still have this section of the outer flap missing. I would prefer to have both flaps run the entire length (as was originally on my car).

Hey Frank,

No, there was nothing cut off. It was the same all the way around. I bought mine at a Porsche dealer the other week.