Check with your chip maker to see if the O2 sensor will even be used.

Will do "Slim"! :D

After getting the right tools and a Map gas torch I gave a shot to the exhaust bolts that seem to have remained untouched since 1987 (in a car driven in Northeast winters it seems).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387304116.jpg

Got two off before finding one Allen with the center rusted out and the next 12mm nut with not enough hex left for a wrench to grab.. Next step is a combination of Plasma Torch, Sawzall, and die grinder! Boy is my machine shop going to love me when I hand them these heads and cam towers! 12 snapped shroud and tin 4mm bolts to drill/tap, all 24 studs to replace! Reminds me of working on my rotted out old VW's when I was a kid!

BTW, what's the point of a MAP gas torch over propane? For this work you need oxy-acetelyne, Map is a joke, $60 tossed away... though the little holster and 5' hose is nice for the next time I have to solder a pipe!

Map is hotter than the propane.

I too had to cut all of my exhaust studs off.

I the engine yoke secure in the stand?

Good luck.

Yeah, the sleeve is in there and its pinned (in the back). Someday i'll have another sleeve made up as I seem to have an engine on this every year now.... :(

Did you apply Kroil or equiv. between applications of heat? Heat expansion allows the lube to dissolve/loosen corrosion between the threads and other petrified parts. Of course, this presumes the parts haven't morphed on a molecular level (or something like that).

After the barrel nuts have lost their shape, cut some strategic slots in the internal hex area with a Dremel tool or equiv., then use a long slotted screwdriver/pry bar to apply torque to the fastener. Wait until parts have cooled somewhat as heated metal is soft. Sometimes they come out without the stud snapping. Sometimes they snap. Sometimes the stud will back out of the head (good).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387310386.jpg

Sherwood

Yes, been soaking in Aero-Kroil for q week... Rather than try and deal with these from obtuse angles I took my trusty Sawsall and new steel blades and took the heat exchangers off the Marie Antoinette way! I burned through all the blades I had (Stuff is HARD!) and have one last pipe to cut and then I have open access, or can wait and just hand the heads over to the machine shop to deal with, flanges still attached. Will buy another pack of blades tomorrow, finish up tomorrow night, then work on the issue like a gentleman with full open access.

That will end my dealings with rust on this engine (everything else is ok), for now and forever as i'm the king of Never-Seize!
:D

Any reason to use Raceware vs. ARP Rod bolts? I know stock is a no-no, especially in a race motor, but there is a $150.00 difference between the two brands!

Some say you get what you pay for. However, there are several messages in this statement.

Sherwood

Checked, my shop uses ARP.. and so will I!

ARP all the way. They have a very good track record, literally, in these engines.

Thanks for the reinforcement Kevin, I have plenty of other places to spend that $150!
:rolleyes:

Decapitated heat exchangers..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387671564.jpg

Note the 1/2 tube of black RTV someone thought was a good idea to use on the oil return tube to fix a leak...

On the earlier O2 sensor question, I ran my stock 3.2/stock chip for about 10 years with O2 sensor disconnected, then switched to custom chip last year from Steve Wong to match headers/open pipes. According to Steve, for track use at mostly WOT, the O2 sensor won't do anything, needed more for street use, warm-up, fuel economy, low emissions etc. He recommended I leave it disconnected and my car is still streetable.

Heed the man's advice...he knows what he's doing. Now if I could just finish his parts, but that's another story...

I used ARP bolts as well in my 3.2 to 3.4 conversion. I also suggest investing in ARP's dial indicator equipped tool that measures bolt stretch. They go together such that you measure the stretch of the bolt to indicate the correct installation torque. You can do it with a dial caliper or mic but its a pain.

O2 sensors in 3.2 Carreras with stock DMEs operate as a fuel trim device. If you run without it you are using what is called "open loop" and the engine is running on its base fuel and timing map. Safe but less fuel efficiency.

Steve Wong wrote to me also, it's another $125 I won't spend, this rebuild will practically be free!
;)

Anyone know if the Beck Arnley Alternator thread size and pitch are the same as stock? I noticed the threads were buggered up when I took it apart. I believe the Marchal is 17mm x 1.5.. I need to get a die and chase these threads, want to be sure it is the correct size. They are flattened on the other side also, worse than what the picture shows.

As one can never have too many tools I ordered a 17mm x 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5 dies to add to my box... hope it's not 16mm (or not metric!). I would use the nut to match up a bolt but its buggered also.
:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387728581.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387728592.jpg

Ok, how about this - I don't see it in the PET and I know it's an odd ball size so does anyone know the part number for the sealing washers for this end of the tensioner feed? It's the big end on the cam tower..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387806228.jpg

Gary are you not buying a gasket kit? I got mine as part of the kit...

Nothing says you need the heat boxes out of the way at this point of disassembly.
I have pulled the heads from the engine, removed the rockers, cams, and cam carriers which then makes the nuts more easily worked on to remove the heads. But I have had the inserts in the Carrera heads hold on after nuts are removed, then you need an air chisel.
Bruce