Picked up my case, polished crank, resided rods, etc. from the machine shop yesterday. Put the case 1/2 up on the stand and noticed this little imperfection -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394981946.jpg

Asked on the rebuilding forum, but would you put a little JB Weld over it or just leave it be? They blessed me by removing my timing and dizzy drive gears so i'm off to buy a pan to heat oil in to reinstall them...

Skip it inside the case. Exterior is where it is where the Tech Bulletin recommends sealant. If the JB Weld came loose inside the case, bad things can happen.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394983485.jpg

That was my thought also, only caveat is if the areas spreads and more tiny aluminum chips are floating around...

Yesterday... now she will go together quick..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395583362.jpg

Did you remember to calibrate the flux capacitor before gluing the case together? :eek:

:D Nice job dude. Looking good!!!

1.7 gigawatts exactly..

Oh man, you over torqued it..............

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5cYgRnfFDA

Considering you over-gigawatted it, when that engine hits 88 mph you're REALLY gonna see some srs shyt :D

Finally, engine done, joined with re-geared tranny...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223274.jpg


And in the car!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223299.jpg


Do I need this thing plugged in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223342.jpg

And where do ya get nuts for the coil terminals?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396224245.jpg

Gary, thanks for putting your build up on the board. I've learned a lot from your sharing and plan on putting a lot of what you did into my build as my motor is on the stand right now waiting for me to tear into it.

You are welcome!

Gary,

I believe that silver box is the relay for the rear window defroster since it has such a high current draw. If you still want to have 12V back there for some other use, you can leave it in place to avoid having to bypass/rewire. Or else remove it and put the 12V feeding the relay somewhere that you can connect to it later on. Good to have 12V available back there for timing light, remote starter, etc. Could also use that high current circuit for a trans cooler pump?

Coil nuts are nothing special. Parts diagram shows basic washer, lock washer and plain nuts. Nuts are either M5x0.8 or M6x1.0. I'd personally use a flanged lock nut to of course avoid loosening and also eliminate the needless extra washers.

Thanks Kevin, I was going to take the 3-fuse box, convert to spade type, and mount it over on the coil backing plate to have power back there. I'll just tape up the plug for the relay for now..

Good post !!

Thank you ..... :eek:

Well, tonight was the final wiring connection. Got everything set, unplugged coil and injectors and hit the key.... it cranked over and built oil pressure. All the oil seems to still be in the motor so I connected everything and cranked. Fuel pump made a strange multipitched whine when running but no fuel on the rails.. and no spark. Tried flipping the two hall sensors and still nothing.. Guessing the fuel pump died over he winter but very odd as it just sat for a few months in my garage with treated fuel in it. The spark has me stymied, only so many wires to hook up!

Well, the issue is resolved , thanks to my buddy Bela, and she's alive! Fuel problem was feed/return lines were swapped at the tunnel, the spark problem was the circuits I chose for a couple of the power feeds dropped power during cranking! Engine sounds great, oil pressure seems a bit off (high), could be the wiring on the sender but i'll figure it out tomorrow when I button everything up and get her ready for the track on Tuesday for a shakedown run...