Yes I did Russ, they come in the Wrightwood kit? Last one I bought was for an SC and of course they weren't in there as SC's don't come with Carrera tensioners.. good to know, thank you!

I realize that, but I wanted all the scrap off there for my Saturday dump run... :D

Actually it was 20 minutes and about 5 Sawzall blades and done, now I don't have that rusty, greasy mess to deal with! And the bolt heads/nuts that held the muffler, crossover, etc. were rotted to nonexistence, it was going to be plasma cutter or sawzall for all that garbage either way.

Oh, and for anyone out there that thinks 3.2's are not every bit as liable to snap exhaust side head studs as an SC, these all fell out without me touching them... 5 came from one side! It's an 87 motor.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387808445.jpg

Wow makes me happy I sprung for all steel exhaust studs even though mine looked healthy!

Yes the WW kit comes with a full compliment of crush washers, more than you could ever hope for. I ended up with some extras. In case you're using the collapsible oil return tubes don't make the mistake I did - the inner o rings are not included. And if you're using the fancy billet ones, its almost impossible to find those o rings on the PP site although they do most certainly sell them.

Nope, using new stock oil return tubes and I know those O rings are included with the gasket set! Or I could do like the PO of this did and not worry about the seals and pump a tube of black RTV in there! :rolleyes:

I have a set of ARP bolts in the garage and they have the flats on the head to hold them in place while torquing. They are for the 3.2. I'm building a 3.4 from an '87 3.2 and will upgrade to the ARP.

Some more progress, case is split, now ready to get parts to the machine shop! Judging from the lack of sealant I believe this case has never been apart, but did the factory use blue seals on the cross bolts?

Crank looks great, Int. shaft gear perfect, Dist. drive perfect.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388352972.jpg

Camshafts have two nicked lobes, will be reground at Doherty.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388353016.jpg

Pistons and cylinders look great but will be checked by machine shop.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388353093.jpg

Found some good pitting on the intake studs so they are all coming out and being replaced..

Wow i'm surprised how clean the engine is inside compared to the outside. Previous user must have been pretty good about changing the oil.

Make sure to check all the pistons on the exhaust side of the crown. This is where valve contact from an overrev occurs on these pistons. The resulting "smileys" caused by kissing valves can be covered up by the carbon on the pistons. Point being is that the kisses on the pistons are not a big deal since you can easy grind them smooth. But obviously the kisses are indicative of an overrev and that would have you looking closer at the valvetrain.


Sent you a PM about some other stuff.

What causes camshaft pitting? Even if they sat for some time I have a hard time imagining corrosion getting a foothold on these smooth, oil filmed lobes. Maybe I dont have a good understanding of how much if any moisture can make its way into a motor and how corrosion starts, but its always stumped me.

Cam pitting isn't corrosion. It's from an oil w/out enough anti-wear & extreme pressure additives. Typically its an oil with not enough ZDDP (zinc & phosphorus content). Doesn't take long for this to happen. Right around late 90s to early 2000s the oil formulations started to change to reduce the ZDDP content and folks in the engine servicing industry started finding those engines with flat/solid/mechanical cam systems were having pitting problems.

First thing I looked for Kevin! I've bent valves in my SC, know just what it looks like. Either way this is getting a full valve job with new race springs and Ti retainers so it's all good.. rockers look new, so I think all is well. Internals are all going to the machine shop to do all clearance measurements, re-round rods, stretch ARP bolts, etc. etc..

Doing the tedious stuff now like removal of 27 years of aluminum corrosion via glass beads from apparently living in a salt filled tank...

The inside of the fan was the worst, fairly deep pitting but she will be good now.. big difference before and after. Engine air deflectors on the right (6 or the 10 pieces) were not salvageable, have perfect replacements thanks to an old SC box of parts and Tom B. from RennShop.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389114154.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389114162.jpg

Wow that looks great. Do you have a blast cabinet or did you outsource? Engine rebuilding hours = 75% engine parts cleaning. Next time round I'm either buying a cabinet or outsourcing. Do glass beads safely and effectively remove baked on gaskets?

Russ - I have a fairly large cabinet, use Black Beauty grit for steel, glass beads for aluminum. You could feasibly use glass for gasket surfaces but it wouldn't be a good idea as it removes a small amount of the substrate along with the gasket residue. What works great is a small 90 degree die grinder with a 2-3" red scotch brite pad, cleans it up great, gets the crap out from around the studs, leaves the surface alone.

Worth a word of caution on the scotch brite pads, they work extrememly well but don't fool yourself into thinking that since they are just a scotch brite they will not remove metal. I had an over zealous apprentice grind a Twin Otter wing out of limits thinking that the scotch brite would not touch the aluminium, in some areas he removed as much as .200 of the metal behind the corrosion and paint.

Thanks, luckily the gasket surfaces aren't corroded so it's fairly easy to see the point that they are nice and clean, especially in this case as apparently the factory uses extremely little sealant compared to what I have seen on rebuilds.

You have to buy a new wing from de Havilland?

Viking Air in BC now owns all support for classic de Havilland aircraft, but the wing was exchanged with a company out of Mesa Arizona. The only airplane that I have ever exchanged wings on with regularity, the Twin otters and Beavers are interesting birds because you essentially cannot kill them, no matter how damaged they are they will be rebuilt, as no other aircraft out there does what they do.
Though now Viking is building new -400 Twin Otters so that may change, but 3 years ago the company I worked for had one of there -300's written off in a micro burst, so ins. paid them 2.4, they bought the hulk for 600 000 and rebuilt it at a cost of almost 2 M. Any other aircraft would have been scrapped at that level of repair.

Finished parts waiting to dry. Ended up doing a light coat of Eastwood Argent Silver for future protection as the bead blasted surface was pitted by corrosion and and too uneven colored for clear (like back of cam chain boxes - just before new JB weld was applied).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389635548.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389635560.jpg

Also - I decided to send my ECU out to Ingo for diagnostics so I don't have to worry about it. He found several solder joints like the one below which could lead to issues down the road so I am glad I did!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389635870.jpg

He is going to re-solder all questionable joints, replace the 24 pin socket with a newer 28 pin, and install a new 28 pin (stock configuration) chip, all for a VERY reasonable price IMO.. As this is supposedly out of a 58,000 mile road car I would advise all of you with 3.2's to send Ingo your ECU for evaluation!

I should have added you get a two year warranty too!

Hey Gary, thanks for the kind words. I was browsing through your thread not realizing it was you until I saw the picture with the cracked solder joint. Then it hit me.....

I got to give it to you, this is impressive work you are doing here with the engine. I am impressed. From the first pictures this one definitely had a pretty hard life judging by all the grime and damage.

BTW: Your DME all done. See here on another thread where I showed the 28pin upgrade work. This was your DME late last night. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/791530-3-2-dme-rework-upgrade-28pin-socket.html. Maybe you want to do a light media blast on the DME cover, too when you get it back. Just be careful since the Zink plating usually comes off along with the grime when you do. After that you should clear-coat it to prevent premature corrosion.

Cheers,
Ingo

Subby Doo

Visited the machine shop to drop off my shipment of Valve springs and Ti retainers from Doughtery Racing Cams (where I sent my cams for a regrind). Was told the Mahle pistons and cylinders measure to new spec, heads are all perfect, all good news so far. Once I pick up the finished heads and cam towers (had all broken shroud bolts drilled/tapped) the case with crank and rods are going in to be cleaned, checked, rods resized, ARP bolts stretched, etc. All engine tin has been sandblasted/primed/painted, going to refinish the intake assembly and get my fuel lines out to Len next. Then its re-asssembly time once the cams and other out-sourced stuff gets back!

Would you mind sharing estimate of what a semi-stock rebuild is costing these days with you doing the teardown? I will face that decision or go to a 3.6L.

Not trying to step on Gary's thread. Just will say that 3.6 install is false economy if you don't use a 3.6 with good solid documented maintenance or rebuild history. Many guys have had to rebuild their 3.6 swap.

3.6 is a fantastic step up from the 3.2 or 3.4 in not only power, but more importantly torque. Torque is key on an engine that sees some street usage. You also get twin plug built into the 3.6 as well as knock detectability.

Moving on refinishing other items while I wait for parts. ..

Fan housing during the glass bead process, had some nasty pitting and deep discoloration - The alternator was stuck in there good and it hadn't been in there that long, it's a fairly new Beck-Arnley 90W unit. I will be laying a coat of never seize in there before reinstalling to make it a breeze to pop out should I ever have to..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390776035.jpg


Fan housing finished, lite coat of Eastwood Argent silver -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390776087.jpg

Alternator air deflectors were covered in rust, blasted and coated with Eastwood Etching primer, will shoot the whole thing with enamel, not sure what color.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390776195.jpg

Engine shroud de-greased, will blast the rusty air deflector and sand/shoot the shroud with whatever color I have hanging around, maybe signal green!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390776292.jpg

I would say this is going to be in the $5-$6K range but won't know for sure until i'm done and get my final bill from the machine shop.

Gary,
Thanks, that's ballpark of what I figured. Hope you're tracking details of parts prices and I can pick your brain, if I decide to rebuild. I assume you're going all stock for a stock class but since I don't race, I would add the cost of 964 cams to mine.

BTW, the fan housing came out nice. What are you doing with the fan?

I'm burning my invoices as they arrive... :D

Yes, have to stay all stock except the DME Chip, running PCA Stock E. In my case I am replacing all the brake calipers and rotors with Carrera parts also as I am, in essence, turning my SC into a Carrera to move up a race class. FYI, the brake conversion will cost me $1500.00 in parts and a 1/2 day of my time. All removable aluminum engine parts have been glass beaded and have received a light coating of Argent silver to even out the color and protect them. In the past I have used Eastwood Diamond Clear over the aluminum but the discoloration and pitting made for uneven coloring and the Argent wheel paint is very close to raw aluminum.

This is/was my race 3.0 after refinishing using Eastwood clear - it held up great over several years.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202410735.jpg

So you just paint right over the aluminum? Even the cylinder fins? Looks nice

Yes for external pieces, No I don't paint the cylinder fins, heads, or cam towers. Those parts are bead blasted at the machine shop and left natural as I believe they will dissipate heat better uncoated.

Never ending need to refinish the poor old girl, this is what the intakes look like now..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391444907.jpg

Fuel lines are in rough shape, all rubber will be replaced, steel rehabilitated..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391444989.jpg


Also, found a reducer on the HPS silicone hose site that should take the place of the cracked rubber on this for $15 -

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...32805-M100.jpg

Dang those intakes are screaming to be soda blasted! Yah those fuel lines are the infamous single crimp swivel fittings that can leak if you fart too close to them, let alone touch them! :D

If that works, you'll be a hero - Tell us more!
GK

Not much to tell, just not sure of the fit until it gets here. I measured "close" 12mm ID/15mm ID with a ruler, this is 13mm-16mm so we shall see!

Search results for: 'HTSR-050-062-BLK'

It's 4" long so will be trimmed for length... comes in blue too! :D

The only thing special about the line is a restrictor inside the copper pipe, but that stays so its just the hose reducer that needs changing..

How are you replacing your flexible fuel lines? Are you getting lines made with crimps or going for the DIY route with clamps/AN fittings?

Also, I'd like to know the part number for that reducer if you don't mind sharing. Thanks!

I'm having Len replace the fuel lines with crimped fittings. Click on the link, that's the part, but you may want to wait for me to receive it and be sure the fit is perfect before ordering it...

Intakes before:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391444907.jpg

Intakes after:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391899175.jpg


Trying Eastwoods "Cad Paint System" out, figure it can't hurt as these parts were totally corroded. This is Step 1 of 3 (after glass beading and etching primer).. and yes, I bought all new rubber hoses.. don't want them gold. I did the fuel rails and the big T line and ends also..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391899311.jpg

Was that a quick blast on the intakes and then some silver from Eastwood?

Good guess! :D

Slow progress as I wait for parts and time to play when i'm not clearing snow..

Intake reassembly - Elbow boot is coming back off to re-black it (just too beat looking to leave alone) and replace clamps. An oetiker clamp set is on the way and all small clamps will be replaced also. Flapper box and butterfly housing beaded and cleared for protection.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392603972.jpg


Fuel line refinished and off to Len on Monday for new SS hose. Replacing all engine compartment rubber fuel lines, including new feed and return lines. Bad pic, you get the idea..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392604083.jpg