Gary,
Those intakes came out great. Is this going to be a race car or concours queen? ;)

Race only, just can't help myself.. I hate working on corroded/dirty parts!

The runners look great. How are you planning to restore that elbow - mine is in a state too. Also, did you receive that reducer piece of hose? Interested to hear if it worked!

Gary lovely build mate enjoyed the reading. For your clamps you would be absolutely amazed at how easily they clean up on a polishing wheel I redid all mine in the front gaurd when I R&R 'd my washer system and all the lines they went from looking like prehistoric parts with corrosion to brand new again.

I have my new silicone elbow and bought a oetiker clamp st, as it is 1mm off on both ends I will see how it clamps up. The copper line is now polished bronze so lets see how she looks!

Just got my heads back, dropped the short block off for it's needs... The pulled all the intake/exhaust studs but didn't put new ones in so I will. Only thing is the PET and whats on Pelican are different..

Pet shows two sizes, 30 and 35mm (5A and 6)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392847323.jpg

Pelican shows 50 and 51mm Both say "Exhaust stud" for some reason).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392847394.jpg

If the 50mm is correct i'll just get 24 51mm studs and be done with it. Anyone know for sure what the correct size is or if the 1mm difference matters??

No way those intake or exhaust studs are 50mm Gary! That's TWO inches!!! Those lengths on PET are indeed correct.

I think it's the way Pelican physically measured the stud? Measuring the stud is not overall length. It's the "receiving" length needed to bolt on the receiving part, which is typically called the nominal length.

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch1/1-120.pdf

In this case the receiving parts are intake manifold (not super thick, even when you include the heat insulators) and thick flange heat exchangers

Pelican must be using the overall length? Problem is the part number 999 062 239 02 (part 5A, is shown as 30mm on Pelican, just like PET says... and it's double the cost of the 50mm stud? :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392850243.jpg

Your chart shows the nominal length of a 35mm stud to overall be 51mm, that HAS to be the case here and I guess I should just get all 51mm studs as with headers I could actually use a few more mm than stock?

$4.25 for one stud is a kick in the family jewels..........

Let me check the count of a bunch of studs I have in my nut & bolt organizer drawers***. I have a bunch of M8 studs I removed from junk cam housings (housings I personally destroyed myself, i'm proud to say- NOT) and they're basically the same length- upper studs are 28mm, lower studs are 35mm

***Imagine that, me being anal retentive enough to have all my nuts and bolts organized? Who woulda thunk it....... ;) ***

Appreciate it Kevin, but at this point (after spending a couple hundred $$ at the machine shop having about 20 bolts and studs drilled out, helicoiled, etc.) on this rust bucket anything I put on is going to be brand-ass new! The 51mm (35mm stud) is $2.00, I would just get 24 of them and be done. 5mm is only .2", will be fine for the 30mm intakes.

Understood. They're all good studs since the cam towers were all in very good shape- no rustbucket status. It was the engine bearings that wasted the towers........... :rolleyes"

Let me know if you run across anything else that needs studs. I have four cam housings that donated their studs to my nut & bolt organizers

Thank you again for the offer, much appreciated! Reality is the intake studs didn't have to be pulled but I just wanted to start fresh. I spent an hour today wire brushing the corrosion off the through bolt heads, all the special washers, and the acorn nuts so that should say something about my level of anal.. they will get a coat of something to keep them good after the shop gives me everything back spotless... I hate rust!!!

Gary, how did you get the intakes to clean AND shiny? They look new!
Mine will be reassembled shortly but I would like to give them a makeover while everything is off the car.
Thanks!

Gilles - Glass beading and Eastwood Argent silver!

Thanks for the tip Gary!

The gold color is Eastwood "Cad Paint kit", gold with red and green tint.

same here!
mine were chemichaly rinced (industrial process), but they came out nearly dull grey.
flushing them in brake cleaner helped but not satisfactory.
so I rattle can painted them with a 2K heat resistant silver.

next to the as-new look, it also smotthes the rough stock surface and you can wipe them clean once in a while way better than before (depends on how much paintlayers you put on).



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393422863.jpg

Fits fine, use the good clamps if possible, it's a thick walled hose..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394397101.jpg


Got my heads back, just unpacked them as i told the machine shop to remove all intake and exhaust studs and I have new ones to install. Little problem... they removed ALL the studs in the heads! I just found out the tall cam tower studs (99906204102) are $5.75 EACH (x24 is $138 just for studs!).. McMaster has 65 and 80mm studs (12mm tap thread length, 25+/- mm nut side) but not sure what the actual length of the stock studs are as they are listed here as 50mm (the thread length I assume, though the intake/exhaust studs are listed here as 51mm but the that is overall length).. makes ordering a bit confusing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394397504.jpg

Thankyou for finding this part and reporting it - I will be picking one up. I see you used Oetiker-style clamps to secure them - been meaning to pick some of those up...

Nice work Gary.
Great find in the reducer.
Subscribed.

Picked up my case, polished crank, resided rods, etc. from the machine shop yesterday. Put the case 1/2 up on the stand and noticed this little imperfection -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394981946.jpg

Asked on the rebuilding forum, but would you put a little JB Weld over it or just leave it be? They blessed me by removing my timing and dizzy drive gears so i'm off to buy a pan to heat oil in to reinstall them...

Skip it inside the case. Exterior is where it is where the Tech Bulletin recommends sealant. If the JB Weld came loose inside the case, bad things can happen.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394983485.jpg

That was my thought also, only caveat is if the areas spreads and more tiny aluminum chips are floating around...

Yesterday... now she will go together quick..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395583362.jpg

Did you remember to calibrate the flux capacitor before gluing the case together? :eek:

:D Nice job dude. Looking good!!!

1.7 gigawatts exactly..

Oh man, you over torqued it..............

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5cYgRnfFDA

Considering you over-gigawatted it, when that engine hits 88 mph you're REALLY gonna see some srs shyt :D

Finally, engine done, joined with re-geared tranny...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223274.jpg


And in the car!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223299.jpg


Do I need this thing plugged in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396223342.jpg

And where do ya get nuts for the coil terminals?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396224245.jpg

Gary, thanks for putting your build up on the board. I've learned a lot from your sharing and plan on putting a lot of what you did into my build as my motor is on the stand right now waiting for me to tear into it.

You are welcome!

Gary,

I believe that silver box is the relay for the rear window defroster since it has such a high current draw. If you still want to have 12V back there for some other use, you can leave it in place to avoid having to bypass/rewire. Or else remove it and put the 12V feeding the relay somewhere that you can connect to it later on. Good to have 12V available back there for timing light, remote starter, etc. Could also use that high current circuit for a trans cooler pump?

Coil nuts are nothing special. Parts diagram shows basic washer, lock washer and plain nuts. Nuts are either M5x0.8 or M6x1.0. I'd personally use a flanged lock nut to of course avoid loosening and also eliminate the needless extra washers.

Thanks Kevin, I was going to take the 3-fuse box, convert to spade type, and mount it over on the coil backing plate to have power back there. I'll just tape up the plug for the relay for now..

Good post !!

Thank you ..... :eek:

Well, tonight was the final wiring connection. Got everything set, unplugged coil and injectors and hit the key.... it cranked over and built oil pressure. All the oil seems to still be in the motor so I connected everything and cranked. Fuel pump made a strange multipitched whine when running but no fuel on the rails.. and no spark. Tried flipping the two hall sensors and still nothing.. Guessing the fuel pump died over he winter but very odd as it just sat for a few months in my garage with treated fuel in it. The spark has me stymied, only so many wires to hook up!

Well, the issue is resolved , thanks to my buddy Bela, and she's alive! Fuel problem was feed/return lines were swapped at the tunnel, the spark problem was the circuits I chose for a couple of the power feeds dropped power during cranking! Engine sounds great, oil pressure seems a bit off (high), could be the wiring on the sender but i'll figure it out tomorrow when I button everything up and get her ready for the track on Tuesday for a shakedown run...