Gary,
Those intakes came out great. Is this going to be a race car or concours queen? ;)

Race only, just can't help myself.. I hate working on corroded/dirty parts!

The runners look great. How are you planning to restore that elbow - mine is in a state too. Also, did you receive that reducer piece of hose? Interested to hear if it worked!

Gary lovely build mate enjoyed the reading. For your clamps you would be absolutely amazed at how easily they clean up on a polishing wheel I redid all mine in the front gaurd when I R&R 'd my washer system and all the lines they went from looking like prehistoric parts with corrosion to brand new again.

I have my new silicone elbow and bought a oetiker clamp st, as it is 1mm off on both ends I will see how it clamps up. The copper line is now polished bronze so lets see how she looks!

Just got my heads back, dropped the short block off for it's needs... The pulled all the intake/exhaust studs but didn't put new ones in so I will. Only thing is the PET and whats on Pelican are different..

Pet shows two sizes, 30 and 35mm (5A and 6)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392847323.jpg

Pelican shows 50 and 51mm Both say "Exhaust stud" for some reason).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392847394.jpg

If the 50mm is correct i'll just get 24 51mm studs and be done with it. Anyone know for sure what the correct size is or if the 1mm difference matters??

No way those intake or exhaust studs are 50mm Gary! That's TWO inches!!! Those lengths on PET are indeed correct.

I think it's the way Pelican physically measured the stud? Measuring the stud is not overall length. It's the "receiving" length needed to bolt on the receiving part, which is typically called the nominal length.

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch1/1-120.pdf

In this case the receiving parts are intake manifold (not super thick, even when you include the heat insulators) and thick flange heat exchangers

Pelican must be using the overall length? Problem is the part number 999 062 239 02 (part 5A, is shown as 30mm on Pelican, just like PET says... and it's double the cost of the 50mm stud? :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392850243.jpg

Your chart shows the nominal length of a 35mm stud to overall be 51mm, that HAS to be the case here and I guess I should just get all 51mm studs as with headers I could actually use a few more mm than stock?

$4.25 for one stud is a kick in the family jewels..........

Let me check the count of a bunch of studs I have in my nut & bolt organizer drawers***. I have a bunch of M8 studs I removed from junk cam housings (housings I personally destroyed myself, i'm proud to say- NOT) and they're basically the same length- upper studs are 28mm, lower studs are 35mm

***Imagine that, me being anal retentive enough to have all my nuts and bolts organized? Who woulda thunk it....... ;) ***

Appreciate it Kevin, but at this point (after spending a couple hundred $$ at the machine shop having about 20 bolts and studs drilled out, helicoiled, etc.) on this rust bucket anything I put on is going to be brand-ass new! The 51mm (35mm stud) is $2.00, I would just get 24 of them and be done. 5mm is only .2", will be fine for the 30mm intakes.

Understood. They're all good studs since the cam towers were all in very good shape- no rustbucket status. It was the engine bearings that wasted the towers........... :rolleyes"

Let me know if you run across anything else that needs studs. I have four cam housings that donated their studs to my nut & bolt organizers

Thank you again for the offer, much appreciated! Reality is the intake studs didn't have to be pulled but I just wanted to start fresh. I spent an hour today wire brushing the corrosion off the through bolt heads, all the special washers, and the acorn nuts so that should say something about my level of anal.. they will get a coat of something to keep them good after the shop gives me everything back spotless... I hate rust!!!

Gary, how did you get the intakes to clean AND shiny? They look new!
Mine will be reassembled shortly but I would like to give them a makeover while everything is off the car.
Thanks!

Gilles - Glass beading and Eastwood Argent silver!

Thanks for the tip Gary!

The gold color is Eastwood "Cad Paint kit", gold with red and green tint.

same here!
mine were chemichaly rinced (industrial process), but they came out nearly dull grey.
flushing them in brake cleaner helped but not satisfactory.
so I rattle can painted them with a 2K heat resistant silver.

next to the as-new look, it also smotthes the rough stock surface and you can wipe them clean once in a while way better than before (depends on how much paintlayers you put on).



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393422863.jpg

Fits fine, use the good clamps if possible, it's a thick walled hose..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394397101.jpg


Got my heads back, just unpacked them as i told the machine shop to remove all intake and exhaust studs and I have new ones to install. Little problem... they removed ALL the studs in the heads! I just found out the tall cam tower studs (99906204102) are $5.75 EACH (x24 is $138 just for studs!).. McMaster has 65 and 80mm studs (12mm tap thread length, 25+/- mm nut side) but not sure what the actual length of the stock studs are as they are listed here as 50mm (the thread length I assume, though the intake/exhaust studs are listed here as 51mm but the that is overall length).. makes ordering a bit confusing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394397504.jpg

Thankyou for finding this part and reporting it - I will be picking one up. I see you used Oetiker-style clamps to secure them - been meaning to pick some of those up...

Nice work Gary.
Great find in the reducer.
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