Not your average hood release issue - pics

[Rundeep_32]

Hi Guys,

I’ve spent most of the day searching, but just can’t find the answer so I hope someone can help before I break something…

I have a 1985 911 Cab with the locking front hood release T. When pulling on the T, the mechanism doesn’t move out at all. And I’ve used some force. If I twist the T, it will rotate maybe 10 degrees to the right (set screw out already).

I was able to find this excellent article, though he doesn’t have the same issue (wants to re-key his front hood lock):

Rekeying the Hood Release (photos)

As I mentioned, I have already removed the set screw that limits the range of motion of the T handle assembly and is still won’t move. My front hood is (thankfully open) and the cable is secure to the latch. If I move the latch to manually release the hood catch, is operates smoothly and without any looseness. I can also hear the cable move inside the sheathing/tubing that runs through the firewall. Similarly, the hood catch pops up with plenty of spring force.

I’m guessing the T mechanism that connects to the cable is frozen inside the outer housing. On top of the outer housing roughly 1 inch behind the T is a hole that has a lip around it. I sprayed some WD40 with the straw attached into it and it appeared that it ended up dripping down between the T shaft and outer housing - but I could be wrong as there was a little spillage from some spray overflowing the hole.

At this point I am wondering if I even have it unlocked… The key operates the lock smoothly in a 180 degree rotation.

Question 1: Which way do you turn the key to unlock? I’ve tried both ways but would like to move forward with the diagnosis with it in the unlocked position.

Question 2: When I twist the key in the lock, I can’t hear or feel the engagement/disengagement of the tumbler. It rotates smoothly and without any wobble.

I’m now wondering if it’s stuck in the locked position somehow even thought the key operates and can be removed in with the locked or unlocked position (whatever that is). Or has this somehow frozen to the outer housing. Car has no corrosion in or out.

Sorry for the lengthy post, just trying to give clear details.

Thank you very much, Ed

[Rundeep_32]

Should I try to heat the housing?? I can’t believe I’m alone with this.. Or maybe I am. Wouldn’t be the first time. I think the housing is riveted to the mounting plate which is riveted to the dash so I can’t just remove and inspect without repercussions. Thank you.

[timmy2]

Try spraying some penetrant into the lock mechanism and turn the key a number of times, might free up the stuck latch mechanism inside.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pors1968]

Take off two rivets and front cable to lacht and work it on bench .

[Rundeep_32]

timmy2: Thanks. I’ve got some PB Blaster on it now. Bugger is still fighting. If you look at the pics again, please look at number 1 and 5 where the set screw has been removed. Around the hole for the set screw is a little “metal powder” that came out with the screw. Seems as if there is a dissimilar metal interaction. I’m imagining thats all up inside of the housing…

pors1968: Thank you. That is an option on the table. I’d just hate to do that if there was a in ‘situ fix. If it comes to that, I’ll revel in the enjoyment of disemboweling that bad boy!

Thanks, Ed

[Rundeep_32]

OK, this sucker won’t budge. And my elbow put a small seam seperation tear in the seat bottom from leaning on it so things are going down hill (fairly normal for me).

Could someone please tell me which way do you turn the key to unlock the T handle? I really think that the lock cylinder itself is broken internally (no resistance when turning the key back and forth) and it is stuck in the lock position.

If that is the case, what do you guys think about drilling out the lock cylinder? I’m talking about putting a drill bit into the key hole and making progressively bigger holes with bigger bits. Would that even do anything?

Thank you, Ed (whose trying to wash the car in the warm NE weather today but can’t because if I close the hood it won’t re-open)

[timmy2]

Ok, I took the big risk and locked mine to find the unlocked and locked position for you...
1/2 turn counter-clockwise will lock it. 1/2 turn clockwise to unlock. This is on my '78, but I doubt it ever changed.
BTW very easy to turn, virtually no resistance.

[WRGREENER]

I could ck out youtube on "lock bumping" If that does not work....might try triple A-emergency lock service, plead insanity and see if their lock guy can fix. if not drill the thing

[Rundeep_32]

Timmy2 and WG. Thanks for the encouragement. I beat it down last night.

Armed with the counterintuitive to me lefty lock / righty unlock knowledge (thanks!) I turned the key to the right, pulled it out and squirted some PB Blaster up in there, waited an hour, whacked the key cylinder with a gaffer a few times and slowly twisted and pulled (really really hard) and it slowly came out. BTW, as mentioned, there is very little resistance in the lock mechanism. Very smooth.

Seems that it was indeed stuck inside the outer mousing by some weird gummy substance kinda like that stuff that sticks a new credit card to the mailing letter from the CC company. I’m thinking maybe someone tried to lube the assembly in the past, but they used the wrong stuff.

Next task - clean, lube and reinstall with a new cable. I’m also going to fab an emergency pull from the latch itself using a bicycle brake wire and route it for external access.

On to the next thing…

Thanks, Ed

[Cooper911SC]

Awesome! Glad you got it apart. Persistence paid off.

C

[timmy2]

Good news.
What is next?

[Rundeep_32]

Next is really just learning more about the car and getting comfortable with its maintenance and repair. Oh, I also need to decide if I want to run the Fuchs or aftermarket. I like certain aspects of each.

Thanks!