Post #4: The Drop.

With pretty much everything undone, all I had left to do was disconnect the starter motor, and the hard oil line. Dr. J advised I may need some additional leverage for the hard oil line. I gave the lift technique a look, but no go -- I can't get the right angle, and it just wants to lift the line rather than torque it. So I go manual. Start with some PB Blaster to loosen them up.

My tool set doesn't include large enough crescent wrenches, so I have to resort to a pipe wrench and an adjustable. I just have to watch and ensure they are snug, and don't round-off the fittings. I will give it one good go before heading back to Harbor Freight for proper tools:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...213_165352.jpg

I give it a good tug, but nothing is moving. However, the wrenches are snug, and not slipping, so I bring in a little more leverage:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...213_165321.jpg

This gets it done! And no issues with the fittings.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...213_171300.jpg

Place the drain pan to catch the oil from the hard line, and move on to the starter. This is another piece that the Bentley says "disconnect" but doesn't really tell you where it is, or what to disconnect. It is high on the passenger side of the transmission:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...213_171407.jpg

Two nuts, I disconnect them both, and tuck the wiring out the the way, then screw the nuts and washers back on.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...213_172500.jpg

With everything unhooked, it is the moment of truth. I go around a double check everything, position the dolly on the floor jack, and raise it until it is loose against the engine. Then I loosen the transmission bolts a little bit, then loosen the engine mounts a little bit. Then, raise the jack til it is supporting the full weight, and remove the transmission bolts:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...213_174643.jpg

With motor support, the motor mount bolts come out easy. I double all the wires and hoses are clear, then slowly drop the motor an inch or two, and recheck. My floor jack is a relatively new Craftsman, and it holds well, and give a lot of control for slowly releasing weight. I slide the motor back a hair to clear the transmission out of the tunnel, and then drop it to the floor:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...213_182551.jpg

Huge sigh of relief. Top view (you can see the labeling of the hoses & wires:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...213_175830.jpg

With the engine on the ground, I can get good eyes on the breather and oil thermostat. Definite leakage there:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...213_184059.jpg

I read on another "oil leak" thread that the breather host is often the cause of the oil leak in this area, and is misdiagnosed as a bad gasket. I'll replace both the hose and the gasket to address both potential issues. What's not clear is if these leaks are enough to cause this:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...209_161548.jpg

There seems to be more oil here than on the top by the "trinity", which is why I thought it might be oil cooler seals. What else could be causing this?

After these pics were taken, I dropped the front wheels to the ground, and there is still not enough room to pull the enough out -- even with the bumper off -- so today I bought a 4x4 to bridge the hard points by the torsion bars (where the jack stands are positioned). I have seen this technique in posts about how to jack your car. Any issues with this other than take car to ensure I don't crush the oil lines?

These are the points I am talking about:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...214_230101.jpg

Once the engine is fully out, my first task is to remove the high pressure fuel lines -- especially the T-Line -- and drop them off at the Hose shop to get rebuilt. Then I will have my neighbor help me with the transmission, take a look at the throwout bearing, and judge what to do about the clutch. As rusnak mentioned, taking apart the clutch mechanism is not a "bolt-on" job, and I need to do some more prep before I take it on.

Next step is to attack the oil cooler seals, breather gasket, and thermostat O-ring. Then check the plugs (they have less than 10k on them) and order any additional parts I need. I am already ordering new CV bolts to replace the partially stripped ones, and new hoses.

Then I will adjust the valves, and do a leak down test. Then clean all week until the new parts arrive. Install parts next week (assuming I don't attack the clutch), and reinstall the week after -- and be ready to hit the road in mid-March. Definitely gotta be done before Carlisle! Gordo should have his engine rebuild done by then, so I will try to talk him into a road trip.

On the downside, the garage is getting damp as my wife keeps dragging snow in when she parks. Weather here in NoVA is pretty miserable:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...91523-SNOW.gif

Next Post: The Split

You might have oil leaking out of the crankshaft seal. Time to split the engine and tranny and have a look. Just take the airbox and afm off, and the heater elbow. You'll clear easily.

first of all congratulations for getting the engine on the ground yourself, I know you must have a real feeling of accomplishment. so how did it go with the 4X4 posts? any issues raising the car up a couple more inches? when I put my car up I used stepping stone to add the extra height to my jack stands to get the back high enough so I could clear the motor out. I'll look around to see if I can find a pic or two of what I did. maybe it will help on the reinstall.

After some reading, the majority opinion seems to be that the Elring crankshaft seal/RMS is the preferred option. But there are a variety of part numbers fitting different models, and using different names. I think this is the right one for an '88. Interesting that it also fits all of the water cooled 911s (996/997).

Is this correct?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...9911342641.jpg

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-113-426-41-INT

I'm sure you will be fine but maybe this will help spark an idea for you or someone following..http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/u6e3e4ed.jpg
Those blocks really did the trick.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/y9e3uguj.jpg

JM2CW but I would be concerned having the car resting on blocks of any sort as these can break and separate, allowing the car to drop. I would prefer to see wood. I used 2 layers of 12" x 12" X 2" screwed together so they don't slip and separate...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392500221.jpg

Looking good keep up the hard work it will pay off

Good work! Now the real fun begins. BTW - get yourself the really big crescent wrench for reinstalling that oil line fitting. It's just not Porschey to use a pipe wrench on that fitting - beyond making marks, it can distort the shape of the fitting.

Weather up here in NY is about the same, stay warm!
GK

Post #5: Engine Out

I though I would be removing the transmission in this post, but I didn't get quite that far.

I rigged up the 4x4, and screwed a couple of pieces of 3/4 inch plywood to the ends to ensure I could lift the car from the hard points without crushing the oil lines. I made sure to mark the center of the wood with a sharpie to keep it balanced, then jacked it up high enough to get the engine out:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...215_160226.jpg

It worked! The only drama was the CV arm hanging on the throttle cable, only the beginning of the trouble that cable is causing me. Here is a pic with the engine out:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...215_161445.jpg

After getting it out, I dropped the car back onto the jackstands, and started prep to separate the transmission and remove the fuel lines so I can get them to the rebuilder.

No matter what I tried, I can't get the throttle cable disconnected. I removed the small retaining wire, and tried prying it off with a screwdriver, but no love. I just kept bending the mounting bracket, and the ball connector wouldn't budge. This is the piece I am talking about:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...215_162619.jpg

The pic shows the retaining wire still on the ball, as I put it back on so I wouldn't lose it. Is there a trick here I am missing? Other connectors like this popped right off when I removed the retaining wire.

Frustrated by the throttle cable, I moved on to the high pressure fuel hoses. What a tremendous PITA -- especially the T-line. Disconnecting the lines is simple enough, using to wrenches to ensure you don't damage the fittings:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...215_164311.jpg

But once disconnected, maneuvering them out was a major hassle. It is like unsnarling monofilament fishing line. No wonder people take off the intake manifold to remove it. After 30-45 minutes of finagling I finally got it off, along with the other two fuel lines:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...215_171532.jpg

As I was removing it, I saw this wire, which I have previously noticed has a pin connect that has never had anything plugged into it, and the other in plugs into the back of the engine. What is this thing?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...215_171841.jpg

The other end plugs into the crankcase by the breather:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...215_215045.jpg

With the engine totally out, I have started scraping off the caked on oil & dirt, and am looking for potential problem areas. The more I look, the more I think the Oil cooler seals are leaking. Here is a shot at the area around the mounting bolts. I know some oil is leaking from the breather and thermostat and running down the seam between the case and the transmission:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...215_213223.jpg

And this could be blowing into this space below the oil cooler, but the oil is thicker here, and makes me think it is a separate leak. Here is a shot at the area around the mounting bolts:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y...215_213051.jpg

Do you have to take the heat exchanger off to remover the oil cooler? or can you get it off with a long enough extension?

Tomorrow I will tank another crack at separating the engine and transmission. Any insights on getting the throttle cable off would be appreciated!

Until then, here is the requisite pic, complete with well deserved adult beverage:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...215_182414.jpg

Next Post: The split (for real)

On difficult ball socket connections, just unscrew the ball from the backside of the arm that it's screwed into, rather than disconnect the ball from the socket.

Use 6-ton jackstands to support the 911 from the torsion tube. If you don't have them, then get them.

You can change the oil cooler seals now. I'd do is since the engine is out. I'll post a pic of why the oil leaking from the "triangle of death" ends up on the exhaust cross over pipe. Notice that your oil leak has taken the same path.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392520846.jpg

Nicely done! Just completed similar work, 6mos after purchase and incidentally with similar high consumption, but somewhat less obvious leaks. Ended up doing a whole lot more, but thats another story.

Did i notice in your pic that there was no hose clamp on the breather? When i got my motor out the breather hose came off when i looked at it. I think this may well be the cause. I replaced the hose, well all hoses, and oetikered the hell out of it. If you dont have oetikers yet, give them a look, they have built in spring action to keep pressure on hoses even after expansion and contraction. Useful for where you cant see and tighten ordinary worm drivers.

the similarity of a 930-SC-engine to a 3.2 are nearly 1:1.

in your case I'd guess that your engine has about all the classics leaking, why its such a mess:
- breather hose
- breather seal
- sender washer
- upper valve cover seals (lowers in a go too)
- oil cooler seals (get it pressure testet when out!!)

in your case, I wouldnt search the ONE leak, but do a full haul-up.

fighting the gump and caked-on is part of the deal, unfortunately.
but this "valley of tears" travelled is rewarding!

keep up the stamina!!

There is, but it is low down on the hose, and has bitten deeply into it. I am replacing the hoses as well as the gaskets. BTW -- I read your whole thread. Great reading, and very informative.

That has been the plan, and I already have all the seals on hand -- and the hoses are coming. I am not sure about the smaller, braided hose though-- as I am not confident which size I need to order: 7mm, 10mm, or 12mm outside diameter.

I replaced the oil pressure sender shortly after buying the car, so I am leaving that one alone. I doubt it has gone south in 5k miles!

The one I am most leery about is the RMS. Apart from having to dismantle the clutch to get to it, the opinions vary WIDELY on how to do it, or whether you even should if it isn't leaking: Curil-T, no Curil-T; dry outside, lubed inside; no lube, but use spit on the outside to make it slide in better, etc.

The only consensus seems to be that it is difficult to get right, no matter the technique, and the Elring seal seems to offer the best results.

Don't replace the sender but do replace the $.50 crush washer while your there for POM..

Elring, dry outer diameter, sealing surface with a small amount of engine oil..

I'm talking about the Oil Pressure switch, not the Oil Temperature Sending unit.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...623000-M85.jpg

This thing has a built in O-Ring, as near as I can tell -- not a crush washer. I need to be more precise about the names of things, or I will end up buying the wrong parts!

I didn't get real far today. Hit the auto parts store to pick up some cleaning products and a 12 point 12mm socket for the flywheel bolts. I got a mix of stuff -- degreaser, carb cleaner, and couple of cans of Brake Cleaner that were 2 for 1. I understand that it has acetone in it, which could be bad for plastic & rubber if they stay in contact too long, but the stuff evaporates quick -- and was like magic compared to the other stuff.

Spent about two hours cleaning up the transmission case, then started trying to take it apart, and hit a roadblock.

First, one of the four nuts is not a normal nut: the one at the 10 o'clock position, on the starter motor, is a 10mm hex nut, that requires a special socket to remove. So, back to the auto parts store, which is just as well -- because I need some more of that brake cleaner.

So I get the socket, and remove the bolt:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w...216_171023.jpg

Notice how much nicer the transmission looks. It is not spotless, but it was literally coated with a mix of oil and dirt.

Referring back to the Bentley manual, it says I have to remove the bolt from the clutch crossshaft retaining bracket, then pull out the cross-shaft by using a 6mm nut threaded into the end. So, I remove the retaining bracket to access the cross-shaft, and I'm not seeing a spot to thread in a nut:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...216_174641.jpg

With a little fiddling, what appears to be a needle bearing falls out, exposing the end of the cross-shaft, but there is still no threaded hole to take a 6mm bolt:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...216_180822.jpg

Stumped, I searched previous threads, and found this thread of woe, where the cross-shaft is installed backwards:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/741902-g50-cross-shaft-removal.html

Am I missing something? And if my suspicion is correct, I am unsure how to proceed. One suggestion is to JB weld a bolt onto the end of the cross-shaft and pull it out.

On the plus side, the needle bearings looked to be in good shape -- the bearing slipped out easy enough. Given the presence of a needle bearing, this also means that I have had the clutch update -- and I expect they replaced the clutch when they did it. Thats just a guess, but given to solid clutch feel, I though the clutch had been replaced going into the build. The only downside is the possibility of a RMS leak.

Of course, the cross-shaft being in backwards doesn't inspire confidence.

What now?

Since the clutch was operating fine, and the needle bearings look good, I am inclined to revert to my "let sleeping dogs lie" approach -- close it up, do the seals, the fuel hoses, adjust the valves, replace the cam oil lines, check the plugs, and do the leak down -- and leave the clutch for another day. If the leak down shows enough exhaust valve leakage to hint that a top-end is in my near or medium term future, I can fix the clutch and the RMS then.

Open to suggestions...

Engine drop
 

Thanks for documenting your project. You are a brave man to take this on. This is why the Pelican site is such a wonderful source of good information.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...215_171841.jpg

That is a flywheel sensor that is not used, i'm told it may be for diagnostics. I'm leaving it and the plug/bracket off my new build.

Thanks of the confirmation -- since I posted that I found a post referring to a "top dead center" reference sensor and I assumed that was it.