I used the standard method.

I have done some research since I posted the questions, and you are probably correct. I guess the "elephant foot" can connect with suction to the end of the valve, making it seem tighter than it is. But even wiggling the rocker, they would only break loose after I loosened the adjustment screw.

Consensus seems to be that they tighten up with driving, rather than loosening, and it is better to err on the slightly loose side than too tight.

That being said, most posters advise that so long as the gauge is in the gap when you tighten them, and you can remove it and get it back in -- you can't really make them "too tight".

Thanks!

Goal for this weekend was to get the engine ready for install -- and maybe even get it running if all the stars aligned.

But they didn't -- which is to be expected, because nothing is EVER easy.

First thing to do was install the brand new fuel lines I got from Len Cummings:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H...301_122802.jpg

They screwed in place with limited drama -- and went in a LOT easier than the original T-Line came out. I didn't cut mine, and will be putting it in the marketplace once I get the rest sorted. The only issue with the new rubber lines is they don't have the mounting hardware, and the T-line is basically laying on the engine tin. I worry a bit about vibration creating rubbing & wear.

I also screwed in all of the repainted engine tin (I just used Krylon -- not really interested in a major detail job) and installed the new oil & vacuum hoses.

I also installed the new Crankshaft seal. Getting the old one out was a pisser. I eventually pried it out with a screwdriver, but was quite worried about scarring the crank or the case, and creating a leak. I froze the Elring seal, put a little oil on the inside, and installed it dry on the outside -- no loctite. I just pushed it on by hand to get it started, then placed the old seal over the top, and tapped it in.

Looks good, with a tight seal and no gaps or visible damage:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...301_141919.jpg

I also replaced the pilot bearing, which is pressed in on the G50s. I hammered it out with a socket:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i...301_142319.jpg

Unfortunately, I damaged the new one trying to install it. I used a 24mm socket, and it was too narrow. It pressed some of the rubber in, binding the new bearing. Luckily, NAPA carried a SKF bearing, so I got another and tapped it home with a larger socket -- but the lost hour slowed me down.

Sunday, I started with the speedometer spade connector, slitting the plastic, prying open the crimp, and re-crimping it onto newly stripped wire. I also did the 14-pin connector, making sure I got the pins in the right holes, and didn't break it.

Next, on to the clutch reinstall, beginning with the flywheel. I don't have a flywheel lock, so I screwed in one of the pressure plate bolts, and positioned a socket wrench between the transmission mounting stud and the pp bolt -- this kept the flywheel steady while I torqued the bolts. I went to 15 ft/lbs in a star pattern, then cranked them to a shade under 67 ft/lbs (90 NM) in the same way.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...302_124824.jpg

Before mounting the pressure plate I checked the clearance on the RPM/crankshaft sensors -- and sure enough, my hammering had knocked the mount out of alignment. I used a dime to get .8mm clearance between the sensors and the flywheel.

Then I inserted the clutch position tool, and reassembled the clutch & pressure plate, gradually torquing the bolts one turn at a time. I didn't use loctite on any of the threads for the flywheel or pressure plate. This seems to be a point of debate, and I elected to go without rather than risking it seep onto the flywheel, etc.

I used tape to position the fork under the throwout bearing.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...302_151009.jpg

All seemed to be going well, but when I tried to mate the tranny to the case, it got stuck about an inch out:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...302_144428.jpg

I started a new thread to get some advice -- the main suggestions were that is was either:

- the shaft not lining up right, and banging on the pilot bearing
- the clutch fork being too upright, and catching the bell housing
- the splines not aligning properly

After fiddling around with it for over an hour, I readjusted everything, and slowly turned the CV connections -- and it finally slid together. Still not sure what was wrong, but it is together now!

I cleaned & very lightly lubed the cross-shaft and needlebearings with moly grease -- then installed the shaft with a small screwdriver -- making sure the threaded end and open-ended needle bearing were on the correct side!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...302_163811.jpg

I also remembered to removed the tape from the fork -- which might have cause a problem if forgotten. With that, the power pack is all together, and ready to go back in!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...302_170708.jpg

I hoped to have it running this weekend, but that was too optimistic. Next week should be doable. Maybe tomorrow if I get another snow day. Weather in Virginia really stinks this winter, but there are upsides.

So here is where I sit on my "list":

- Finish cleaning trans & external motor
- Verify cleanliness & airflow of #4 & #6 cylinder cooling fins
- Remount rear engine tin & motor mount brace (get better tension on fan belt)
- Install driver side cam oil line (must remount rear tin first)
- Pull & inspect plugs
- Remove valve covers & inspect headstuds & rocker seals
- Adjust valves
- Perform leakdown test
- Re-do leakdown test is the results suck (cry like a girl if the second test is just as bad)
- Install new valve covers
- Install new plugs
- Install new RPM sensors (x2)
- Clean, test & reinstall Oil Cooler with new seals.
- Replace rear brake lines
- Replace engine bay sound pad
- Install new fuel lines (from Len Cummings)
- Replace Oil & vacuum hoses
- Reinstall side & rear engine tin
- Recrimp speedometer spade connector (damaged on removal)
- Replace broken 14-pin connector bracket (damaged on removal)
- Replace crankshaft seal
- Re-install flywheel with new bolts
- Re-install clutch disk & pressure plate
- Clean, relube, and re-install cross-shaft with new needle bearings
- Re-Mount transmission with high temp grease on the splines
- Jack up car
- Reinstall Engine & transmission, re-installing the slave cylinder before mounting the eng/trans
- Re-install CVs, replacing stripped bolts
- Hook up everything, and check it twice
- Install new Fuel Filter
- Install new Air Filter
- Refill transmission with Mobil 1 DELVAC gear oil
- Refill engine with Valvoline VR1 5W20 Racing Oil
- Replace front soft brake lines with braided lines
- Flush old brake fluid with new and bleed brakes
- Reinstall battery with new clamp
- Start her up & search for leaks -- especially at fuel hoses & filter. Fix what I missed.
- Take a test drive
- Search for leaks; tighten what is leaking
- Drink a glass of Johnny Walker Blue

The list is getting shorter!

With the car being drained and sitting for a while, are there specific procedures I need to follow when I start the car?

Can I just fill the transmission & oil reservoir and fire it up? Or do I need to remove the fuel pump fuse and let the oil pump prime all the lines and the sump before actually cranking the motor?

Other than the fuel lines for leaks, is there anything else I should double check before proceeding?

I would crank the engine enough to develop some oil pressure before you start it.

When I pull an engine that is normally looked after by one of the wire harnesses or ground wires I have forgotten to reconnect....

So pull the fuel pump fuse and reinstall once I get oil pressure?

I still have to install the transmission ground.

I need to review the Bentley when I hook the engine back up and make sure I get any other grounds I might have missed.

Good advice. Thanks!

Yes, pull the fuel pump fuse.

And don't forget the bundle of brown ground wires under the driver side of the intake manifold....'cause I know for sure it won't start if you do....

Well, we got our snow day in Northern Virginia, so I had Monday and Tuesday to crack on.

Before remounting the engine, I refilled the transmission with Mobile 1 DELVAC. I pumped and pumped, and almost the entire 3.7 liter jug was in the transmission before it began to leak out -- and I know that is too much gear oil. I looked at the engine, and saw that it is not quite horizontal on the cart, and the front of the transmission was slightly elevated -- allowing it to overfill before leaking out the fill hole.

Is an extra 1/4 to 1/2 half quart of gear oil a major issue? Unless I hear otherwise, I will open the fill hole with it up on jackstands when I bleed the brakes -- it should be level then.

I got the motor back under the car using the 4 x 4 method to lift the back end high enough to rill the dolly under:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...303_152211.jpg

After positioning the motor and partially raising it, I reconnected the slave cylinder from the top.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...303_152202.jpg

It was still a bit of a bear -- compressing the actuator with one hand while trying to get a nut onto the studs. It took 10-15 minutes of fiddling, but still much easier than doing it blind on your back!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...303_155605.jpg

With the car at an angle, getting the motor back in was a challenge. I made sure the transmission gear select shaft was centered, then jacked it up until the transmission mounts could be partially screwed in. Then I placed bricks under the dolly wheels to to support the back end of the motor, and repositioned the floor jack to change the center of gravity. Then I jacked up the rear. This took a fair bit of adjustment until I got everything lined up so I could screw in the rear motor mounts.

With both ends secure, I got underneath and cleaned up the bottom part of the engine that I could not access. Here are the results:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...303_170114.jpg

Next step was to start hooking everything up -- I tried to follow the Bentley manual in reverse, but it was very easy to get distracted. First I reconnected the wiring to the starter:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...304_145056.jpg

The reconnected the gear selector shaft to the linkage -- what a huge pain. I had my son manipulate the gears while I used pliers to hold the shaft steady so the link could slide on. It took a while to get it lined up so the retaining bolt would fit. Then I slid the speedometer cables back through the hole in the firewall. Despite a half hour of screwing with it, I could never get the rubber grommet to fully seat. I might have to get it on a lift to force it all the way in:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...304_163425.jpg

Then I did the CV bolts -- with no drama, replacing the three I stripped. Next I did the breather hoses (more on that later), the cruise control module, the fuel filter, the 14 pin connector, the wiring harness, RPM sensors and CHT, the air box & the new air filter:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...304_173950.jpg

Then the new fuel filter, the heater fan and elbow:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...304_173516.jpg

Last part of assembly was the A/C compressor:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...304_182915.jpg

Then I added 10 quarts of oil -- with my little funnel, the freezing temperatures, and the 5W20 oil, it took a bloody hour!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...304_190840.jpg

Once I run it up to temperature, I will remeasure and add more til it is full.

After reinstalling the battery, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it up to circulate the oil -- and 15 or so seconds of cranking, I got good oil pressure:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...304_192331.jpg

At this point it was getting late, and I was running out of time -- and rushing never helps. I reconnected the fuse, and tried to fire it up, but no joy -- the car wouldn't start. I thought it might take some time to circulate the fuel through the new filter & lines, but after 30 seconds, off & on, the battery gave up the ghost. So I went to bed -- feeling good about progress but with a nagging concern about troubleshooting a Motronic "no start."

I think I dreamed about the car all night…that and the Led Zeppelin I've been cranking through the whole process. I was confident that I had hooked up the grounds that bolt onto the intake, and the transmission ground that connects to the body.

After stewing all day, and reading the "no start" threads, I decided to focus on the two most likely issues: the four pin fuel injection harness -- which I was pretty confident I did NOT hook up -- and the RPM sensors being crossed. When I got home I slapped the dim battery on the charger, and checked double checked all the wiring harness connections -- sure enough, the fuel injection wiring was unconnected -- I could snap that right in without removing anything.

SO I hooked up the battery, and cranked it again…and…nothing.

Last option before going into panic mode, I swapped the RPM/speed sensors and tried again.

And she cranked right up! Here is a short video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CtiNSDKi_fc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

A quick once over, and there are no apparent fuel leaks, but the passenger side cam oil line is dripping -- I tightened it a bit, but will need to pull off the A/C mount to fully tighten it and clean the oil that has leaked.

The last issue is that it appears to be putting off oily smoke from somewhere behind the air cleaner -- suggesting that I might have the breather hoses routed wrong. Any thoughts on what would cause this?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...305_205837.jpg

It has good vacuum -- pulling the oil cap caused the engine to slow and stumble a bit.

Overall, I am very pleased -- and just need to sort out the small stuff with the cam line, the breather hoses, and bleed the brakes!

I read that you added 5w-20 oil. Was this a typo, or is that what you really used? I know everyone has their own opinion about oil and what is okay and what isn't, but let me just say that my winter oil of choice is 5W-40 synthetic which is a Porsche approved viscosity back to 1984. It starts easily in the cold but has good oil pressure when the oil comes up to temperature.

I put in 5W20 -- but it is March. I am not prepping the car for winter driving -- but for Spring & summer, and it gets plenty hot here.

It is freezing right now, but it will be in the 70s here in a few weeks.

I have been following your thread and I wanted to say thank you for your posts, explanations and pictures. I have never done anything this extreme on my car until now. My engine is currently on the ground and I am about to plunge in and do some track upgrade to my car's engine. Your posts along with a variety of other threads have not only taken away the guess work out of this but given me the confidence to take this on myself.

Thanks! It has been very rewarding, and I have learned a ton about my car -- it definitely makes you really "own" it.

The biggest thing I would advise is to be ruthless about labeling, and maybe even make a written list as you take things off. I did about a 90% job on the labeling, but I was not precise enough in describing where the exact vacuum hoses attached -- and now I am not certain I got it right.

I think I am getting some oily vapor out of the crankcase. I know the hose that attaches to the back of the airbox is disconnected -- perhaps that is causing it. But the really tough stuff is done. I can almost taste the scotch.

Good luck with your project!

quick made iphone pictures are very helpfull.
they saved me most time.
and you have them all time handy in your pocket (unless you have a laptop/PC in your shop with a picture library)

I took pictures too, just not enough! I started getting cautious after I spilled motor oil on my macbook air when I took off the oil cooler. :mad:

The keyboard was trashed. Bought a used replacement for $49 on eBay. Big risk, but Apple Store would have waiinted 700 to fix a used 1000 computer. A few hours of surgery and it is good as new...and another skill badge earned!

BTW - the oily smoke wad coming from the breather house that connects to the back of the air box. I reconnected it and cranked it up -problem solved.

Couldn't go to work til I knew for sure.

Don't run that 5W20 too long...

never herad of a xxW20 für an aircooled.

I rund 15W40 all year long.

Its Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil -- 20W50 (not 5W20).

I'm not dyslexic, but I AM losing my mind. Slowly...but steadily.

Ditto this: Ruthless bagging and labeling; take lots of pictures - more than you think you need. I occasionally took random pictures of the "big picture" that I found myself referencing during re-assembly. If you didn't take a picture, consult the forum. If you are at all unsure about something - stop and check your books and/or Google the forum. I often did all these things to check one procedure, and in come cases the directions diverged. Patience above all - there's no rushing these projects.

I'm a disciplined, organized person by nature, but my top-end project required me to raise my discipline, organization, and patience to a new level. That made it all-the-more rewarding.

Nice work and congrats on resisting the slippery slope!
GK

Good read and report, Thanks for posting!